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My 44mag results....
Cubslover
Member Posts: 18,601 ✭✭
Info...
New Marlin 1894 (50rds through it before this session)
20" Barrel
Burris Fullfield II 2-7x35 Scope, Burris Steel rings, on Steel Warne Bases.
Shooting from a RCBS RASS bench @ 50yds.
I bought a box of American Eagle 240gr JHP's to get the scope zeroed in, then had 4 different hand loads to try.
The 4 loads consisted of Nosler Sporting HG bullets in 240gr, CCI 350 primers, Alliant 2400, Remington cases all trimmed to the same length, primer pockets clean, and EXACT SAME OAL.
#1 - 19gr 2400
#2 - 19.5gr 2400
#3 - 21gr 2400 (Shown as max in 5 different manuals)
#4 - 21.5gr 2400 (only shooting if load #3 showed no pressure signs)
......
Ok, time to shoot. I loaded the gun with the factory ammo. First round was way (2') high at 50yds. Off the target actually, my buddy saw it go into the backstop above. Dialed the scope down and fired again, I was on the cardboard but still high and left. Made the adjustments, and fired again. I was near the 3" sticker I was shooting at so I fired 2 more shots. Those three shots basically grouped about 12". We continued adjusting and firing, letting the barrel cool, cleaned the bore, strapped the rifle down, etc. No 3 round group got any tighter than 10".
We were dumbfounded.
I decided to try the handloads....
First load, exact same results as the factory ammo. Essentially NO groupings.
Second load - same.
3rd load was the listed max load. We saw the group tighten up to about 6-7". Still at 50yds. No pressure signs of any sort, so we decided to try the 4th load
Shooting the 4th load, we saw the groups continue to get tighter, about 4.5-5". No signs of pressure so we moved up another step.
Now we're shooting loads at a full grain over listed max. Groups really started coming in, and consistently.
I loaded 8 more at 22gr. First three rounds grouped about 4". Next set tightened up to 3.5". Still showing NO signs of pressure so we went up another .5gr.
This is the load the gun REALLY likes, now at 22.5gr of 2400. First two rounds cut each other, and the 3rd was a hair above them. Even still showing no signs of pressure, no cylinder marks, no flattened primers (actually the factory Federal load showed primers more flattented than these), nothing. We tossed another 20 rounds downrange, 100yd groups were 1.75"!!! Then we decided this was the load that the gun liked. Then we got out the Chronograph.
I'm pushing this bullet at very nearly 2000fps. 1976fps. We shot some Milk jugs filled with water at 50yds and they were exploding. At 100yds they were still violent, but it gave us the answer we were looking for, "No shoulder shots under 100yds!"
What could I do to change this, or should I? I know I could/should go with the Nosler Partition or Barnes XPB, but those are outrageously priced. Should I change the load, or stick with it and concentrate on boiler room ONLY shots?
New Marlin 1894 (50rds through it before this session)
20" Barrel
Burris Fullfield II 2-7x35 Scope, Burris Steel rings, on Steel Warne Bases.
Shooting from a RCBS RASS bench @ 50yds.
I bought a box of American Eagle 240gr JHP's to get the scope zeroed in, then had 4 different hand loads to try.
The 4 loads consisted of Nosler Sporting HG bullets in 240gr, CCI 350 primers, Alliant 2400, Remington cases all trimmed to the same length, primer pockets clean, and EXACT SAME OAL.
#1 - 19gr 2400
#2 - 19.5gr 2400
#3 - 21gr 2400 (Shown as max in 5 different manuals)
#4 - 21.5gr 2400 (only shooting if load #3 showed no pressure signs)
......
Ok, time to shoot. I loaded the gun with the factory ammo. First round was way (2') high at 50yds. Off the target actually, my buddy saw it go into the backstop above. Dialed the scope down and fired again, I was on the cardboard but still high and left. Made the adjustments, and fired again. I was near the 3" sticker I was shooting at so I fired 2 more shots. Those three shots basically grouped about 12". We continued adjusting and firing, letting the barrel cool, cleaned the bore, strapped the rifle down, etc. No 3 round group got any tighter than 10".
We were dumbfounded.
I decided to try the handloads....
First load, exact same results as the factory ammo. Essentially NO groupings.
Second load - same.
3rd load was the listed max load. We saw the group tighten up to about 6-7". Still at 50yds. No pressure signs of any sort, so we decided to try the 4th load
Shooting the 4th load, we saw the groups continue to get tighter, about 4.5-5". No signs of pressure so we moved up another step.
Now we're shooting loads at a full grain over listed max. Groups really started coming in, and consistently.
I loaded 8 more at 22gr. First three rounds grouped about 4". Next set tightened up to 3.5". Still showing NO signs of pressure so we went up another .5gr.
This is the load the gun REALLY likes, now at 22.5gr of 2400. First two rounds cut each other, and the 3rd was a hair above them. Even still showing no signs of pressure, no cylinder marks, no flattened primers (actually the factory Federal load showed primers more flattented than these), nothing. We tossed another 20 rounds downrange, 100yd groups were 1.75"!!! Then we decided this was the load that the gun liked. Then we got out the Chronograph.
I'm pushing this bullet at very nearly 2000fps. 1976fps. We shot some Milk jugs filled with water at 50yds and they were exploding. At 100yds they were still violent, but it gave us the answer we were looking for, "No shoulder shots under 100yds!"
What could I do to change this, or should I? I know I could/should go with the Nosler Partition or Barnes XPB, but those are outrageously priced. Should I change the load, or stick with it and concentrate on boiler room ONLY shots?
Half of the lives they tell about me aren't true.
Comments
NEVER exceed the manufacturer's MAXIMUM.
You didn't mention what cartridge you are loading, but it sounds like 44 mag or is it a 444?.
You need to find another powder that will give you the same results.
If you keep UP loading your cases, your first sign of over pressure might be a destroyed rifle.
NEVER exceed the manufacturer's MAXIMUM.
You didn't mention what cartridge you are loading, but it sounds like 44 mag or is it a 444?.
You need to find another powder that will give you the same results.
The title of the thread says "44Mag"...um.......
The title of the thread says "44Mag"...um.......
That's all you have to say? I guess because I got to this thread from your thread in GD (Handloaders, help needed...), I'm the dummy, right?
I guess a simple "thanks for the info" would have been too hard for you.
Oh yeah....
thanks for the info [;)]
Why not work up a load using a 300 grain XTP?
Blue dot won't come close in velocity and Win 296 is identical to H110.
Lil Gun may get me there, but it's pressures are much higher than the 2400 or H110.
Curious(seriously), what would a 300gr bullet gain me as far as the rifle grouping it decently?
I did look back. The 21gr of 2400 was listed as a pistol load. I don't have a book that gives me a rifle load with that powder. I did see that Bpost said he saw 22.3gr of 2400 as a max load in one of his books.
I'm not looking for 2000fps, it just happens to be the velocity of the load that the gun will shoot. The only load it will group.
Cubs.. actually the load in my first post that I stated for a 20" barrel is according to the Lyman manual was the most accurate for the 240gr bullet they tested which was a speer 240grJHP #4453. H110 is around $20.00 a pound here, give it a try.
I have a pound at home. I just don't have much time before Rifle season starts (one week actually). I am kind of stuck with this load this year. Working up another load is pretty much out of the question.
It's been awhile but as I recall, Elmer's pet load for a revolver was 22 grains of 2400 behind a 240 grain SWC.
I've been shooting that load for 30 years. It is a tack driver for sure and has never ever shown signs of excess pressure.
quote:Originally posted by glabray
It's been awhile but as I recall, Elmer's pet load for a revolver was 22 grains of 2400 behind a 240 grain SWC.
I've been shooting that load for 30 years. It is a tack driver for sure and has never ever shown signs of excess pressure.
Good to know. A gas check'd SWC I assume?
I feel confident that the pressures are not dangerous by any means, it's just the velocities of the bullet on game that scares me.
44 special +P+ 250 gr LSWC over 17.5 grains of 2400 = 1700 f/s
44 Magnum 300 gr LSWC over 21.5 grains of H110 = 1300 f/s
44 Magnum 250 gr LSWC over 22.0 grains of 2400
Lyman #429421 (Keith) is a hard cast Lead NON Gas Checked
nice disclaimer: Just a short word of caution: These are all MAXIMUM loads! If you choose to load any of these start low and work up gradually. We do not need to give the anti-gunners any ammunition by blowing ourselves up. Since I have no control over your loading practices I take no responsibility for your safety. These loads were assembled with Winchester primers and brass and hard cast bullets.
you problem is magnum large pistol primer with 2400.
shot the loads you are showing with 2400 without any problems in a ruger super black. used cci large pistol primers. got a ruger 44 rifle and using the same loads but used cci magnum large pistol primers. a garbage can lid was safe at 50 yards.
in a fit of stupid got rid of the ruger rifle and got a marlin 44. fired the marlin 44 mag rifle and was not able to open the action. opps, high pressure. the light bulb went off about the primers. went back to just large pistol primers. accuracy returned and i was even able to cycle the action.
suggest you try large pistol primers and not magnum primers.
rp
hello;
you problem is magnum large pistol primer with 2400.
shot the loads you are showing with 2400 without any problems in a ruger super black. used cci large pistol primers. got a ruger 44 rifle and using the same loads but used cci magnum large pistol primers. a garbage can lid was safe at 50 yards.
in a fit of stupid got rid of the ruger rifle and got a marlin 44. fired the marlin 44 mag rifle and was not able to open the action. opps, high pressure. the light bulb went off about the primers. went back to just large pistol primers. accuracy returned and i was even able to cycle the action.
suggest you try large pistol primers and not magnum primers.
rp
I don't have ANY pressure signs, and my accuracy is great with this load.
It seem's my problem isn't being understood. I have a load that shoots very well with no pressure signs and great accuracy (3 rounds cut each other @ 70yds), but the bullet is moving 2000fps. I wanted to dial the velocity back a bit but doubt I could maintain accuracy. I also wonder about this bullet moving at such velocity holding together on game. We'll see this weekend.
I thought about going to CCI 300's, but wonder if they can light off that case full of 2400 in 10 degree weather?
The famous 44/40 relied on bullets weighing ~ 200 gr at ~ 1200 ft/sec.
Tried upping the charge to 22 grains but with CCI 300's. Velocity and accuracy were virtually the same and I have used the 2 loads interchangeably ever since.
slh and handgun hunting. My gun was a M29
8 3/8" 44mag Smith. I wanted all the speed
I could get. So I happened upon 180gr Super
Vel ctgs. Had a friend who owned a chrono
when they first came out and this load was
running 1803fps. My buddy had a Marlin 44
levergun and they hit 2300+ from his 24"
barrel. I killed a couple deer with my 4
Smith but the recoil was pure torture. So
I started using a load some of the guys had
for Silh. Was 9 1/2gr Unique over 240 gr swc
Really nice load. Killed deer as good as
the Super Vel. Hurt a lot less too. The
Marlin didnt like the lead bullet load at
all. That Marlin liked lots of speed. The
more we put in jacketed loads the better it liked it.[:D]