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Smith Wesson top break 32 reloading?

peddlerpeddler Member Posts: 881 ✭✭✭✭
I have this old SW 32 top break made in the late 1800's, can I safely reload a very light load for this gun? Or was this a black powder only revolver? I have shot this gun with several light reloads already and it seems just fine. Thanks for any infomation.

Comments

  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    Depends on what type of gun it is. Some of the later Iver Johnsons for instance are in fact made to handle light smokeless loads. B Goforth on the Ask the Experts side could probably tell you, he's an expert on the top breaks.

    If you do go black powder, I ususally load an 85 grain .32 bullet lubed in a 50/50 mix of beeswax/olive oil over 3/4 of a case full of FFFG, with the bullet seated to just touch the top of the powder. They're cheap guns, generally speaking, but if you get one in decent shape they work fine with black powder.
  • Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,438 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If it truly was made in the 1800s, I wouldn't shoot it at all. You may choose to risk it, but that irreplaceable little gun could disappear with the first pull of its trigger. And then it's too late.
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
  • peddlerpeddler Member Posts: 881 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    This little gun is just too good and tight to just hang on the wall and look at. You can buy one of those for $25-$50 at any gun show that I go too. Plus a little 32 short is just fun to shoot.
  • PearywPearyw Member Posts: 3,699
    edited November -1
    I use Trail Boss powder in these kind of guns. It is very bulky and gives good results for light loads. I load for a 1880s vintage 38 S&W. You can get higher velocity with the black powder loads, but I hate washing and drying the cases.
  • peddlerpeddler Member Posts: 881 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'll try trailboss, I also have a 38 about that age too.
    Thanks
  • amamnnamamnn Member Posts: 28 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Old S&Ws are beginning to be VERY collectible. Depending upon the model and year made, you might not want to shoot an old Smith. I just sold 3 not so very old Smiths for a lot more than what I paid for them.

    If you really want to know what you have get the very interesting book, "Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson" by Jim Supica and Richard Nahas. A fascinating book even if you don't collect SWs. The top break was introduced in 1877, so you might have one of the older ones....Just glancing through my book I see some .32 top breaks selling for around 600.00 in excellent condition. This book seems to be very conservative with values. All my Smiths sold for about 30 to 50% over the book and that was at auction..
  • peddlerpeddler Member Posts: 881 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for all the info
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