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Range brass reloading
v35
Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
Till now I've reloaded my own fairly clean brass but lately have bought grade 3 380, 9mm and 223 in bulk.
I'd rather wash deprimed brass first so as not to put grit into resizing dies and don't want to put unnecessary operations into the reloading operation. The brass can be dark or discolored.
What is the most efficient order of operations to go from grade three brass to loaded ammunition?
What's the best wash and can I escape tumbling ?
I'd rather wash deprimed brass first so as not to put grit into resizing dies and don't want to put unnecessary operations into the reloading operation. The brass can be dark or discolored.
What is the most efficient order of operations to go from grade three brass to loaded ammunition?
What's the best wash and can I escape tumbling ?
Comments
No you can't escape tumbling. Not only does it polish up the brass, it knocks out minute little bits of corrosion on the cases.
I would start by {edit: washing (Iosso) and drying then tumbling} then sizing. If you have a hand priming tool that step goes much faster than with a press. Find a load using ball powder because it meters so well. That way you can develop a load near max and dump powder in the case without having to weigh every load. As long as you pick the right powder, whatever bullet you choose shouldn't be an issue.
Good article on the process and solution options. I've not used a powder cleaner.
I think it would result in cleaner brass but I don't want to screw up
my sizer-decapping dies. That's really the question.
Lyman used to sell four die sets to allow decapping without sizing but as I recall the dies were so loose the decapping pins didn't center and broken pins and enlarged flash holes resulted.
Hopefully, the extra operation will justify in cleaner brass interiors and no grit in the sizing and loading dies.