Factory crimp dies

partisan

I am adding .40 S&W, and .380 ACP to my reloading. I have reloaded .45 ACP for many years. My question is; do I absolutely need to purchase the factory crimp dies additionally with these 2 calibers? I have never owned a factory crimp die for my .45 ACP's, and have never had a problem with feeding.

All of my equipment is RCBS, but I am thinking I'll go with Lee for the new calibers due to the better pricing. All complaints with the Lee dies? Thanks for any help.

Nwcid

I am a fan of the Hornday TiN dies for my pistol calibers. They come as a 3 die set and will pay for themselves in just a couple of boxes of ammo.

Rocky Raab

You don't absolutely need them, but if they come with, you'll appreciate having them. I don't have any in handgun chambering (which work differently) but I love my rifle LFCDs. The handgun ones have a carbide ring in them that give a final sizing while they crimp. They insure the round will chamber.

220combat

I use only Lee dies. I only use the Factory Crimp Die for revolver rounds. If you try to crimp as you are seating, the last few 1000's of seating are being done while the case mouth is being rolled in. This can cause bulging of the case below the crimp. The benefit of the FCD is that you are crimping seperatly. The second benefit is that the FCD is also Post-Seat resizing the case, but, if you have loaded the round correctly, you don't really need the resizing feature.

That said, the Lee Carbide Pistol Dies are the 3 die set, the Lee Deluxe Pistol Dies are the same dies, plus the FCD. The 4 die set usually sells for about $10 more than the 3 die set, but the FCD sells for about $15 by itself.

partisan

Thanks for the help!!!!!!

243winxb

45acp RCBS dies with an extra taper crimper have always worked well for me. No need for a Lee FCD. IMO

tsr1965

Most factory loaded ammo has a taper crimp. That is all that the Lee FCD is, is a taper crimp die, and it is marketed as being exactly what the factory uses.

That said, most standard die sets have a roll crimp die, and as an option there is the taper crimp die that can be purchased. As most all autoloading pistol rounds headspace off the case mouth, the taper crimp dies work best for reliable loading, no bulged cases, and a crimp that does not displace the case mouth. However, for a consistant crimp, with roll or taper crimp, the cases must be all one uniform length...that means trimmed.

Best

geeguy

As above, do you need one? NO!


will you want one after trying it? YES!

I started with very tight chamber .45ACP guns and it solved any issues (they were only minor before, but now gone completely). Since then I have purchased a FCD for each caliber, do I need it, no, but what a great addition and well worth a few bucks.

hehateme

Very much worth the extra 10 bucks or so if you buy the Lee Deluxe sets.

partisan

Thanks for all the help!!! I guess I'll have to quit being so cheap, and get the extra die..

RCrosby

Seems like there may be room for a little confusion in some of the responses. There's a definate difference between tapered crimp dies; which are indispensable for .45 acp, and the Lee factory crimpers which are best for thin walled revolver rounds like the .38 and .44-40's.

tsr1965

quote:Originally posted by RCrosby
Seems like there may be room for a little confusion in some of the responses. There's a definate difference between tapered crimp dies; which are indispensable for .45 acp, and the Lee factory crimpers which are best for thin walled revolver rounds like the .38 and .44-40's.


I suggest that you look at what you have typed. The Lee Factory Crimp die is nothing but a taper crimp die. If you are not sure of that, cut a taper crimp die, and a Lee FCD in half lengthwise and examine them. I am sure that will clear up any confusion of that they are not the same thing and just labeled differently.

Best

RCrosby

tsr,
Have to disagree with you on this one. All of the taper crimp dies I have are similar to standard dies, i.e. one solid piece, but with a longer than normal tapered contour that gives a gentle slope to the crimp. (A little like comparing the neck of a 300 H&H to a .284 Win.) The Lee Factory crimpers that I have are essentially a two piece unit with 4 fingers that crimp directly in from the side. This is what makes them work so well on thin walled cases since you're pushing IN and not DOWN on the neck of the case.

tsr1965

quote:Originally posted by RCrosby
tsr,
Have to disagree with you on this one. All of the taper crimp dies I have are similar to standard dies, i.e. one solid piece, but with a longer than normal tapered contour that gives a gentle slope to the crimp. (A little like comparing the neck of a 300 H&H to a .284 Win.) The Lee Factory crimpers that I have are essentially a two piece unit with 4 fingers that crimp directly in from the side. This is what makes them work so well on thin walled cases since you're pushing IN and not DOWN on the neck of the case.


I apologize Robert, I was forgetting about those fingers.

partisan

RCROSBY- Now you have given me waaaaay too much info. I have loaded .45acp since the early 70's without and additional factory crimp die. I have also never used a FCD on any of my revolver reloads. So, are you saying I DO or DON'T need the FCD for .40's and .380 acp? I'm not worried about the additional cost, I'm just confused. Thanks

RCrosby

partisan,
Sorry for the info overload. Just trying to respond to tsr's comment about there being no difference.
As to your question I'd say, NO you probably don't need an extra die for crimping. Use what you've got, just don't overcrimp. I got along for years without a tapered crimping die for my 45 ACP and never had any problems. If you find that with your present dies you aren't able to get a firm enough grip on the bullet without sacrificing reliable ignition because of a headspace problem, THEN a tapered crimping die might make things easier for you.

geeguy

Spend $15 on the Lee Final crimp die. It will make your round size as if it came from the factory. If you don't need it you wasted $15. My guess is that after using it you will buy one for every size.

I guess you have to interpret the word "need" vs. "really nice to have".

Best of luck

partisan

Rob & Geeguy- Since the additional cost for the FCD is minimal, I'll go anead and purchase the FCD. Thanks for all the help!!!!! doug

rotarymetertec

Interject a question reguarding Lee's FCD doesn't put down pressure when sizing. Wouldn't it still apply down pressure do to it gets it's crimp pressure from pushing the casing up in to the die. It may provide less down force with the collet style crimp over the taper/TC, but still would have some.

RCrosby

Pressure is virtually all inward and not down. Makes a huge difference with thin walled brass. Like other crimping dies though, you can put a very light or increasingly heavy crimps on to suit your taste and need. With the auto rounds I would recommend going on the light side since the first 1/16" or so of the neck is pressed in uniformly and could affect headspacing if you reduce neck diameter at that point by too much.

v35

Case length isn't critical with collet crimp dies.

RCrosby

Case length isn't critical with collet crimp dies.

Because of how the crimp is applied, true enough, case length doesn't play as critical a role in the strength of the crimp as with others, but a shorter case will still have less neck material crimped than a longer one, and more importantly, in a round that headspaces on the front of the rim like the .45 ACP, case length is still critical.