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Loading the 40 S&W
Gunman760
Member Posts: 140 ✭✭
Does anyone have any information on loading 160 grain bullets in the 40 S&W? I have the latest edition of the Lyman reloading manual, and it does not list the 160 gr. bullets. Starts at 135 gr. and goes up 190 gr., has a listing for 155 and 165 gr. I DO NOT want to experiment with a starting charge of powder. I've noticed the 40 S&W has a very small window between suggested starting loads and max loads. Any information provided would be greatly appreciated. Just for the record, I have been loading rifle and pistol for about 30 years now, but have just started with the 40 S&W. I am being really cautious, as this caliber is new to me.
Thank you in advance for any and all help.
Thank you in advance for any and all help.
Comments
Just don't start out at max charges. As with any component change start out 10% lower.
Gunman I have to ask, is that a cast bullet? Any reloading manual I have does not list a 160 The only factory load I found was mag tech 160 lead and they list 160 swc as a reloading component. Just curious as I cannot find anything useful
Gunman I have to ask, is that a cast bullet? Any reloading manual I have does not list a 160 The only factory load I found was mag tech 160 lead and they list 160 swc as a reloading component. Just curious as I cannot find anything useful
No Cash, they are not cast lead bullets. They are FMJ 160 gr. noses bought on Gunbroker from the Bullet Farm in AZ. I also have no info in any of my manuals for this particular weight bullet.
Use the 165 gr. loads. As a precaution I suggest when working with a new round in a new rifle {Edit:} firearm to you that you do start with minimum loads...then work up. Small changes in chamber or throat tightness, etc., and you can get a hot load without trying hard.
As a matter of fact about that I was loading for my daughters .380 Bersa Thunder. I used the minimum load for Speer 88 gr. HP's with AA 7. The recoil from that load knocked a spring out of it's groove and the trigger quit working. It didn't take much to figure out that the piece needed to be sprung upward and there was a channel for the spring to go into. Changed to a faster powder and recoil no longer knocks the spring out. Point was the minimum load was too hot for the gun.
This is normal; you're pushing a heavier bullet, so you reduce the charge.
"My biggest concern is that there is such a small difference between the suggested starting grains and the max loads. In most cases, the difference is only 5 or 6 tenths of a grain."
Many manuals list different powders, and you can select the one with the widest range of charge weights for that particular bullet if you're uneasy with the limitations placed on you by a certain powder.
You are correct in "splitting the difference" with 155/165gr bullet load info for your 160grainers; as long as no other components are changed, it should be OK. I always chronograph the first batch of any new load/bullet I try out, just for safety's sake.
I do know what you mean. The load I got out the manual for the .380 I was loading for was 7.3 gr. min. to 7.7 gr. max.
It depends on the bullet weight and the powder as to what you may want to go to. AA #2 or #5 would have been a better choice. I ended up going back to bullseye as it is closer in speed to them than AA #7. Midrange in that powder worked great. I generally only reload pistol so that functionality is key. I don't care if they are hot or cold. As long as they go bang every time and eject when done...without the pistol recoil making it jump out of my hand.
I use 8.8 gr. of AA #7 for the 165's and 9.6 gr. for the 155's. I found that gave me better velocity but still kicked a lot for a relatively light pistol. I also tried clays using 3.7 gr. for the 165's. I liked this load but the stuff is a bit hard to meter.
AA is ball powder and slow, clays and bullseye are different sized flake powders and much faster burning. Ball is easiest to meter and also has the nitro added for extra boost. You don't always need it in a pistol. I don't weigh handgun loads individually, I just stay well under max and check cases to make sure I don't have too much in one. One thing to note too is even though you see small loads for pistol the powder goes a long way Meaning 3.7 gr. fills the .40 case more than halfway up. 9 gr. of AA does about the same. Hope that helps a little more.
Gunman760,
I do know what you mean. The load I got out the manual for the .380 I was loading for was 7.3 gr. min. to 7.7 gr. max.
It depends on the bullet weight and the powder as to what you may want to go to. AA #2 or #5 would have been a better choice. I ended up going back to bullseye as it is closer in speed to them than AA #7. Midrange in that powder worked great. I generally only reload pistol so that functionality is key. I don't care if they are hot or cold. As long as they go bang every time and eject when done...without the pistol recoil making it jump out of my hand.
I use 8.8 gr. of AA #7 for the 165's and 9.6 gr. for the 155's. I found that gave me better velocity but still kicked a lot for a relatively light pistol. I also tried clays using 3.7 gr. for the 165's. I liked this load but the stuff is a bit hard to meter.
AA is ball powder and slow, clays and bullseye are different sized flake powders and much faster burning. Ball is easiest to meter and also has the nitro added for extra boost. You don't always need it in a pistol. I don't weigh handgun loads individually, I just stay well under max and check cases to make sure I don't have too much in one. One thing to note too is even though you see small loads for pistol the powder goes a long way Meaning 3.7 gr. fills the .40 case more than halfway up. 9 gr. of AA does about the same. Hope that helps a little more.
I am using Bullseye powder for the 40 S&W. I have unique and Win. 296 here, but I was reading in the reloading manual that Bullseye gives a more consistent performance in this particular caliber. Thanks again for all of the info and experiences you have had with your reloading. I think all of this info will be a great help in the present situation, and in the future. Common sense told me to ask the question, so I could get the opinions of other reloaders, like you. It will give me a better piece of mind knowing that other people are thinking like I am. I appreciate all of the help.