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223 brass got stuck

joshmb1982joshmb1982 Member Posts: 8,228 ✭✭
in my resizing die. i have that pad you put the case lube on(is that stuff supposed to be so thick?) and rolled a handfull of cases back and forth on it a few times. on my 5th case the rim ripped off and the damn thing got stuck. the 4 befor it went ok. did i just miss this one when rolling it? how often do i need to put more lube on the pad? do i need to send the die back to rcbs for them to fix or is there some way for me to get it out? its a brand new die set with literally the 5th case through it.[xx(][:(!]

Comments

  • blackmesariflecoblackmesarifleco Member Posts: 91 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    They make a tool for removing stuck cases but i think you could find something around to do the same thing. Back the mandrel out so not to damage it and decapping pin. Find a size chart for taps (I don't have one handy) and drill out primer pocket for 1/4 tap size and tap for 1/4 bolt. Find a 3/8 socket that will fit over brass and on die. Use a 1/4 bolt and washer through your socket and use it as a puller.
  • Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,438 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Two suggestions:

    Throw that stupid pad and that thick lube in the trash. Get a tin of Imperial Sizing Die Wax, or a tub of Hornady Unique Case Lube. You'll thank me for the next 50 years.

    Second, get a proper stuck case remover set. Dinking around with home-made stuff (or worse, using the big pliers!) can scar your die.

    Of course, if you follow suggestion #1, you'll never need the stuck case remover ever again, so maybe you should borrow one from somebody nearby, LOL!
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
  • dcs shootersdcs shooters Member Posts: 10,870 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Did you let the lube soak into the pad before you started? Did you make sure there was lube on the shoulder and neck? It's possible you had too much lube on the body and not enough on the shoulder and neck.
    I gave up on my lube pad years ago and went to the spray bottle of RCBS.

    EDIT:To answer your question below, yes you need to lube the neck and shoulder in a full lenght die. When you use a spray lube it gets in there. All the spray lubes won't harm the powder.
  • joshmb1982joshmb1982 Member Posts: 8,228 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Rocky Raab
    Two suggestions:

    Throw that stupid pad and that thick lube in the trash. Get a tin of Imperial Sizing Die Wax, or a tub of Hornady Unique Case Lube. You'll thank me for the next 50 years.

    Second, get a proper stuck case remover set. Dinking around with home-made stuff (or worse, using the big pliers!) can scar your die.

    Of course, if you follow suggestion #1, you'll never need the stuck case remover ever again, so maybe you should borrow one from somebody nearby, LOL!


    i didnt know they made such a thing. just looked it up on midway and will be placing an order. thanks for the help
  • joshmb1982joshmb1982 Member Posts: 8,228 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by dcs shooters
    Did you let the lube soak into the pad before you started? Did you make sure there was lube on the shoulder and neck? It's possible you had too much lube on the body and not enough on the shoulder and neck.
    I gave up on my lube pad years ago and went to the spray bottle of RCBS.


    i thought you werent suppoesed to get any lube on the shoulder and neck? do i need to also lube the inside of the throat on bottleneck rifle cases?
  • colt423colt423 Member Posts: 36 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    back in 1990 a product was recommended to me and i tried it. It freed me from pads and mess'. i recommend it to all its called hornady one shot case lube . It is a miracle invention. Ive never had a stuck casr or problrm with it. try it youll love it.
  • Okie743Okie743 Member Posts: 2,700 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Don't forget that RCBS products have a LIFETIME warranty! (even to all owners)
    Also you will find that when sizing do not just RAMMER home in one shot, as you will run into some calibers, cases, etc that are harder sizing, and have a tendcy to stick, so get a feel of the ram press and when you feel one loading up, back it out put some lube on your fingers or small brush and rub it onto the case, sometimes you can just rub the case with your fingers to spread the existing lube around on the case that is TRYING TO STICK, and go in short stroke steps again! If you put on too much lubon the cases you will see some dents in the shoulder area, do not worry about these as they will fire form when shot! If the die has a air relief hole make sure is not clogged! Some cases/dies require more lube than others!
    The not greasy spray on lubes are good, just place your hulls in a marjarine bowl and shake them as you spray, a little bit of the spray goes a long way here! (just follow the directions on the spray can)

    Get your self a RCBS stuck case remover, because you are going to eventually need it again, and I try to buy RCBS stuff, even used stuff due to the lifetime warranty! They are good user friendly people, their products cost little more, but it's good stuff!
  • joshmb1982joshmb1982 Member Posts: 8,228 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    well. got the case out. had a tap and die set here so just used that to back the case out. new problem is the decapper where it threads into the rest of the center part got stripped. put another 5 cases through it and the decapper stayed in the throat of the 23 brass. now i have to wait untill the local store gets that whole center piece in so i can try again.[:(] chaulk that up to another lesson learned.
  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    Just why I love Lee dies. You can beat the stuck case out with a hammer as their decapping rod is not...wimpy like the RCBS one is.

    Imperial sizing wax IS good stuff... but awfully pricey for something whose main ingredient is lanolin (or something similar). For reforming I just use lanolin.

    I gave up on spray lubes a long time ago. I found Hornady one shot to be expensive, wasteful, and not that good- lots of stuck cases, even if I soaked things really well.

    I don't like lube pads either. Too slow.

    These days I'm dunking the case neck first into a bucket of lube- either STP or wire puller lube or a mix of 1 part Lee case sizing lube to 9 parts water. Sometimes I'll even lower the cases by teh hundred into a bath of any of the above with primers already removed with a universal decapper, and take them out and shake them off with a deep fryer basket. Works well, no stuck cases yet. You can easily lube 1 to 1000 cases in seconds this way.

    Really pre-made case lube, unless you are case forming, is a gimmick. Yeah I'm sure i'll get in trouble for saying that, but lots of similar products are available and cheaper if you know what to look for.

    Glad you got the case out.
  • Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,438 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Just to offer a non-argumentative correction, but Imperial is not lanolin (or perhaps not lanolin alone). It's a mix of two oils and two waxes, according to their description. A two-ounce tin of it lasts for years and years, so the expense is minimal compared to use.

    The case lube that IS lanolin is Hornady Unique (not the spray stuff). So is Mink Oil boot preservative. A tub of Mink Oil is only a couple bucks and is as good as anything except Imperial.

    What I like about the lanolin type or Imperial is that you just swipe your fingers across the top of the stuff and then handle cases normally. That gets enough lube on them to never stick a case and make the press handle practically fall to the stops. Swipe again every 10 to 20 cases. That's it.
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
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