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my newest problem.

joshmb1982joshmb1982 Member Posts: 8,228 ✭✭
edited November 2009 in Perry Shooter Competition Shooting and Reloading Forum
ok so i got all my lake city brass deprimed and resized. im taking a folding boxcutter knife and taking the crimp out of the primer pocket(the proper tool is on the way). i have on of the rcbs hand priming tools with the little green try that orients the primers the right side up. i have it set up with the small accessories for 223 cal. when i put a deprimed case on the tool to be reprimed i am having a hell of a time getting it to work properly. even with most of the PPU brass that i have which did not have crimped in primers. it seems like the primers want to go in at an angle and looking at the brass i swear it looks like the primer pocket is not centered in the case head. it looks like its off to one side just a little on the cases that are giving me trouble. is this common with once fired lake city brass? i do not understand why i am having this much difficulty in every step of trying to reload this. shouldnt it be just inser deprimed case, sqeese the handle and its now primed? once its started i cant get the case out and i have to use both hands to squeese the damn tool hard wnough to force the primer into place. and then its flattened out some. am i missing something here
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Comments

  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,669 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You are not getting all the crimp out. Use the deburring tool, chucked in a drill to remove the crimp. You could also wait until the primer pocket swage gets to you and make your life a lot easier.
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  • joshmb1982joshmb1982 Member Posts: 8,228 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    i took my de-burring tool to the primer pocket. gave it a few twists and i dont see or feel anything rough in the primer pocket. this is even happening in non military, commercial brass. i had to rip probly 7 cases out of the tool because the primers got stuck in at an angle and i could not get the case out. would putting a drill bit in a cordless screwgun do the job?
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  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,669 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If commercial, non-military cases are causing you headaches too I think you have different issues. Not sure what they are because I use an RCBS priming tool for the last 100,000 rounds or so. I do not hand prime.

    I do know a drill is not an option. Hopefully somebody that hand primes will chime in.

    Can you prime on your press?
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  • joshmb1982joshmb1982 Member Posts: 8,228 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    i have a rcbs rock chucker that comes with a priming tool. but have heard thats not such a good idea cause its hard to judge how much pressure to use and easy to seat the primer to deep.
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  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,669 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by joshmb1982
    i have a rcbs rock chucker that comes with a priming tool. but have heard thats not such a good idea cause its hard to judge how much pressure to use and easy to seat the primer to deep.


    Horse-swaggle, It, just like anything else requires care and finesse. It is slower but the tactile indicators of a primer seating are still there. The goal is to see if you can prime the cases you have on different priming tools to see if the problem lies with the brass or the equipment. Try seating some primers on the press and see if they are still cattywompus in the primer pocket.
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  • reloader44magreloader44mag Member Posts: 18,783 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by joshmb1982
    i have a rcbs rock chucker that comes with a priming tool. but have heard thats not such a good idea cause its hard to judge how much pressure to use and easy to seat the primer to deep.
    NEVER had an issue with seating a primer too deep, I use the primer arm on my Rockchucker well over 100,000 rounds and never had an issue.. if anything the primer would be "under seated"...and I'm not shy when bring the handle up to seat the primers...its all about feel and consistancy
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  • joshmb1982joshmb1982 Member Posts: 8,228 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    ok. ill set that up and give it a try tomarrow. thanks for the advise. ill get the hang of this stuff if it kills me. [B)]
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  • reloader44magreloader44mag Member Posts: 18,783 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by joshmb1982
    ok. ill set that up and give it a try tomarrow. thanks for the advise. ill get the hang of this stuff if it kills me. [B)]
    The primer will bottom on the case... not to worry.
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  • wsfiredudewsfiredude Member Posts: 7,769 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Josh,

    Make sure you have the rod in the hand priming tool oriented correctly.

    One end of it has a beveled edge. The other end does not.

    Beveled edge down, non-beveled edge up.
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  • joshmb1982joshmb1982 Member Posts: 8,228 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    yep made that mistake on a couple cases and fixed it. will these cases where the primer got slightly crushed still fire? there not to bad looking but just a littl bit flatter then they should be.
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  • elubsmeelubsme Member Posts: 2,197 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Are you using the correct primer guide? Black is for large & white is for small primers. Using the larger one would allow the primers to cant or enter the case off center, Ed
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  • joshmb1982joshmb1982 Member Posts: 8,228 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    yep. got the white quide in the priming tool along with the small rod with the flat end up. i did probly 50 cases when i first started without a hitch.. then got in 1000 lake city brass. so i tumbled, deprimed, and trimed to legnth all them. i went back to priming now and am having difficulty.
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  • jbw04jbw04 Member Posts: 2 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Uniforming the primer pockets, while being a pita will more than likely fix your problems.
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