new to reloading

theoldboarsnest

I've been shooting on a limited basis for years and now getting into reloading. I have a turret press, die sets for both size ammo I will be loading, and a scale (all a gift). Were can I get a good book with illistrations, and a source of reference to begin the process. I'm mechanically inclinded but have even seen someone reload before. If there is a total beginning I'm starting there.

thanks for the help
Oh and I'll be loading ACP.45 and ruger .480 if that helps.

theoldboarsnest

I'm just starting into pistol ammo reloading...How does one determine the number of times brass can be reloaded? Standard powder charges...Nothing 'hot' or 'wildcat'.

Thanks
Mike

theoldboarsnest

i am thinking of starting to reload. I dont know what i will need i found this and am planning on getting it what else will i need?

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25237/catid/1/Dillon_Square_Deal___039_B__039_

thanks for your time

theoldboarsnest

Thinking of getting into reloading my own cartridges and doing some research on GB, but no idea where to start. I have 7.62x54r, and if I end up liking it will want to be able to branch out to different calibers. Any tips on where to start? Books to read? Suggested starter kits. Thanks

theoldboarsnest

I have been given a complete reloading setup in .45ACP. Now all I need is pointed in the right direction in getting bullets. Just looking for some can shooting plinker rounds made of lead. 225 grain would be about where I would think I need to be. If not feel free to educate me. I have a source of brass and primers are easy to find.

Thanks for any help for a newbie trying his hand at cutting costs to continue to shoot.

theoldboarsnest

retired, plenty of time, small farm, 25 & 100 yd range, small shop,
use lee challanger for basic, & lee c frame to seat bullets. hand dip each case, use hp38 powder for 5 handgun cal. use h4895 for 3 mil surplus cal. keep it simple stupid! also cast lead bullets for same. do any other reloaders follow a routine like this?

theoldboarsnest

I am molding my own lead bullets, There is a grooved ring all the way around the base. Is there something that should fill it? The lead is already lubed and sized. Have seen some lead bullets with a waxy type substance in this groove before.

theoldboarsnest

How do you know how to adjust the dies? There is a collar adjustment on most, what is the proper way to set these up and adjust them correctly?

rsnyder55

Similar, except I use 700x for my 12 ga loads and handguns.

I have a Hornady progessive (not a lock and load) that I use, but I like to handprime and measure each load. (Waiting for my RCBS Chargemaster to get here next week).

sandwarrior

theoldboarsnest,

Welcome to the Forum!

I use a lot of 4895 for Mil-surp calibers. 5.56, 6.8 SPC, 7mm, 8mm, .30-06, .303, 7.5 Mas, 7.5 Swiss, 6.5x55 Swede. It's a very good powder, flexible from low to high. Although, you may find you won't get ultimate (safe) velocity using it. Just the fact you can use it and get about what you want. It's not a forgiving powder if you think you want to start pushing pressures/velocities. The pressure curve takes a sharp upward spike at the top end. H4895X is a little more forgiving but will still blow primers if you get it too close to max.

In some cases, like loading for a semi-auto such as a Garand or AR15, you find it necessary to use 4895 so that you don't send too much pressure down the barrel, and possibly damage the gas systems. Slower powders may leave too high of gas pressure at the gas port. So that's why you use the faster burning 4895.

Stick around, and if you have any questions, feel free to ask. Many members here also take e-mails if reading in a thread seems difficult for the specific answer you are looking for.

rong

I have 2 single stage presses.
One I've had for years. I reload
for about 10 calibers -rifles and handguns
and i just plug along,Speed has never been
an issue with me.I find reloading
is theraputic and shooting is fun,but I
wish I had the open space for a range

Johnperkins

Hello,
John here. I am new here and also "IGNORANT" of Reloading, and making my own ammo. but, with the rising costs of ammo. these days I am going to have to do it as I am disabled(!!CANCER SUCKS!!)and simply cannot afford to keep purchasing as the prices are sure to keep rising. I carry my .45ACP and I own an SKS, 12Gauge shotgun, and a .22 rifle. I will also be needing to make .243 ammo for the grandson. any and all info./help/supply knowledge will be greatly appreciated. Thank You For Your Time and Efforts...
*****GOD BLESS AMERICA*****

coledigger4

quote:Originally posted by Johnperkins
Hello,
John here. I am new here and also "IGNORANT" of Reloading, and making my own ammo. but, with the rising costs of ammo. these days I am going to have to do it as I am disabled(!!CANCER SUCKS!!)and simply cannot afford to keep purchasing as the prices are sure to keep rising. I carry my .45ACP and I own an SKS, 12Gauge shotgun, and a .22 rifle. I will also be needing to make .243 ammo for the grandson. any and all info./help/supply knowledge will be greatly appreciated. Thank You For Your Time and Efforts...
*****GOD BLESS AMERICA*****


I would suggest picking up a couple, or more, reloading manuals to start with. I have found some very good deals at yard sales and used book stores. Hope this helps.

Be VERY cautious with reloading formulas from the internet! I had some Hawk bullets and was looking for best load data since these bullets were all I had of the Hawk brand. I went to a gunpowder site and tried their starting loads. They 'looked' close to what my books said for that bullet weight in a 300 Winchester Magnum. High pressure signs with the starting loads, unGodly recoil, punctured primer, and gases coming from the bolt area. Ejecting the spent cartridge took more effort than normal. One shot, took the rest back home and pulled the bullets.