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just got resizing some 284 win
nemesisenforcer
Member Posts: 10,513 ✭✭✭
brass to 7.5X55 Swiss.
Thought I'd crack a few necks, but they all came out fine (knock on wood.)
I'm going to work up 5 different loads with 150 grain bullets (got a glut of them for Christmas.)
anyone have any good suggestions?
I got Varget, IMR 4350, H4831, IMR 3031, H4895, IMR 4895, R15, R19.
Thought I'd crack a few necks, but they all came out fine (knock on wood.)
I'm going to work up 5 different loads with 150 grain bullets (got a glut of them for Christmas.)
anyone have any good suggestions?
I got Varget, IMR 4350, H4831, IMR 3031, H4895, IMR 4895, R15, R19.
Comments
"just got resizing some 284 win brass to 7.5X55 Swiss."
Since you don't mention the process, I thought it might be a good time to mention that you need to make these cases so that they headspace properly. This usually means checking each case in the chamber it will eventually be fired in. You will need to remove the firing pin assembly and extractor to insure proper headspace. Without having the proper headspace, you shouldn't bother trying to reload.
After you've established that the headspace is correct, I suggest using a small amount of fast pistol powder and grits to fireform the cases first. Grits are cheaper than Cream of Wheat and not as oily.
Hodgdon's website has a list of loads for the 7.5x55 Swiss, most are not even close to being decent performance since they are created for very low pressure found in some of the older firearms. But they will give you a selection of most of the powders you list.
The website Swiss Rifles has some good guidelines (velocity and bullet weights) for you to use when checking your reloads.
I use IMR-4895, Re-15, IMR-4320 and V V N-550 which is just about perfect.
Best.
nemesisenforcer,
"just got resizing some 284 win brass to 7.5X55 Swiss."
Since you don't mention the process, I thought it might be a good time to mention that you need to make these cases so that they headspace properly. This usually means checking each case in the chamber it will eventually be fired in. You will need to remove the firing pin assembly and extractor to insure proper headspace. Without having the proper headspace, you shouldn't bother trying to reload.
After you've established that the headspace is correct, I suggest using a small amount of fast pistol powder and grits to fireform the cases first. Grits are cheaper than Cream of Wheat and not as oily.
Hodgdon's website has a list of loads for the 7.5x55 Swiss, most are not even close to being decent performance since they are created for very low pressure found in some of the older firearms. But they will give you a selection of most of the powders you list.
The website Swiss Rifles has some good guidelines (velocity and bullet weights) for you to use when checking your reloads.
I use IMR-4895, Re-15, IMR-4320 and V V N-550 which is just about perfect.
Best.
I just ran the 284 brass through my 7.5 full length die. what more do I need to do to ensure correct headspacing before fire forming them?
I checked 5 random blank cases with bullets in my rifle last night. some were tight, but they all chambered with bolt lock up. how do I remove the firing pin and extractor assembly and how does this aid in headspace calculation?
I figured fire forming them would be necessary. do i still need to do a squib pistol powder load before taking them pro or what?
Thanks for all the info.
I don't know everything but at least I know that.
quote:Originally posted by nononsense
nemesisenforcer,
"just got resizing some 284 win brass to 7.5X55 Swiss."
Since you don't mention the process, I thought it might be a good time to mention that you need to make these cases so that they headspace properly. This usually means checking each case in the chamber it will eventually be fired in. You will need to remove the firing pin assembly and extractor to insure proper headspace. Without having the proper headspace, you shouldn't bother trying to reload.
After you've established that the headspace is correct, I suggest using a small amount of fast pistol powder and grits to fireform the cases first. Grits are cheaper than Cream of Wheat and not as oily.
Hodgdon's website has a list of loads for the 7.5x55 Swiss, most are not even close to being decent performance since they are created for very low pressure found in some of the older firearms. But they will give you a selection of most of the powders you list.
The website Swiss Rifles has some good guidelines (velocity and bullet weights) for you to use when checking your reloads.
I use IMR-4895, Re-15, IMR-4320 and V V N-550 which is just about perfect.
Best.
I just ran the 284 brass through my 7.5 full length die. what more do I need to do to ensure correct headspacing before fire forming them?
I checked 5 random blank cases with bullets in my rifle last night. some were tight, but they all chambered with bolt lock up. how do I remove the firing pin and extractor assembly and how does this aid in headspace calculation?
I figured fire forming them would be necessary. do i still need to do a squib pistol powder load before taking them pro or what?
Thanks for all the info.
I don't know everything but at least I know that.
i have not fire formed any of mine and the ones that were tight just needed the bullet seated a little more and they worked fine.
worked in both K11 AND K31. K11 was the tighter fit
quote:Originally posted by nemesisenforcer
quote:Originally posted by nononsense
nemesisenforcer,
"just got resizing some 284 win brass to 7.5X55 Swiss."
Since you don't mention the process, I thought it might be a good time to mention that you need to make these cases so that they headspace properly. This usually means checking each case in the chamber it will eventually be fired in. You will need to remove the firing pin assembly and extractor to insure proper headspace. Without having the proper headspace, you shouldn't bother trying to reload.
After you've established that the headspace is correct, I suggest using a small amount of fast pistol powder and grits to fireform the cases first. Grits are cheaper than Cream of Wheat and not as oily.
Hodgdon's website has a list of loads for the 7.5x55 Swiss, most are not even close to being decent performance since they are created for very low pressure found in some of the older firearms. But they will give you a selection of most of the powders you list.
The website Swiss Rifles has some good guidelines (velocity and bullet weights) for you to use when checking your reloads.
I use IMR-4895, Re-15, IMR-4320 and V V N-550 which is just about perfect.
Best.
I just ran the 284 brass through my 7.5 full length die. what more do I need to do to ensure correct headspacing before fire forming them?
I checked 5 random blank cases with bullets in my rifle last night. some were tight, but they all chambered with bolt lock up. how do I remove the firing pin and extractor assembly and how does this aid in headspace calculation?
I figured fire forming them would be necessary. do i still need to do a squib pistol powder load before taking them pro or what?
Thanks for all the info.
I don't know everything but at least I know that.
i have not fire formed any of mine and the ones that were tight just needed the bullet seated a little more and they worked fine.
worked in both K11 AND K31. K11 was the tighter fit
so you didn't use a squib pistol load to fire form your cases before going full strength?
It's obvious by your statements and question that you don't understand the process of safely fireforming cartridge cases.
IT IS NOT a squib load when I suggest using a pistol powder in combination with grits or Cream of Wheat. It's a very common and safe practice which provides a fast pressure curve to form the brass cases to the chamber without wasting a larger amount of rifle powder with slower pressure curve and a bullet. We generally use a small square of TP or even a little candle wax to seal the case mouth.
Let me repeat this again for the sake of accuracy:
These are NOT squib loads that are being suggested.
"I just ran the 284 brass through my 7.5 full length die. what more do I need to do to ensure correct headspacing before fire forming them?"
What makes you think that you set the sizing die in such a way that it matched the headspace of the chamber?
Removing the firing pin and extractor/ejector, takes the springs and pressure out of the feel for seating the case in the chamber. In this manner you can feel the base of the case against the bolt face if the headspace is correct.
You might be O.K. but then again...
Good Luck with whatever you decide. I'm just trying to help.
Best.
nemesisenforcer,
It's obvious by your statements and question that you don't understand the process of safely fireforming cartridge cases.
IT IS NOT a squib load when I suggest using a pistol powder in combination with grits or Cream of Wheat. It's a very common and safe practice which provides a fast pressure curve to form the brass cases to the chamber without wasting a larger amount of rifle powder with slower pressure curve and a bullet. We generally use a small square of TP or even a little candle wax to seal the case mouth.
Let me repeat this again for the sake of accuracy:
These are NOT squib loads that are being suggested.
"I just ran the 284 brass through my 7.5 full length die. what more do I need to do to ensure correct headspacing before fire forming them?"
What makes you think that you set the sizing die in such a way that it matched the headspace of the chamber?
Removing the firing pin and extractor/ejector, takes the springs and pressure out of the feel for seating the case in the chamber. In this manner you can feel the base of the case against the bolt face if the headspace is correct.
You might be O.K. but then again...
Good Luck with whatever you decide. I'm just trying to help.
Best.
I just said "squib" load for lack of anything better to call it. It's not a full power load with rifle powder; I thought "squib" load was a general catch all term for such a practice. Sorry if I upset your precious humors with my insufferable ignorance.
I don't know if I set the die in such a manner to ensure proper headspacing, that's why I was asking. I guess I'm just not as smart as everyone else and wasn't born knowing everything.
Squib loads are dangerous, that's why I objected to the term so vigorously.
"A squib load, also known as a squib round, pop and no kick, or just a squib, is a firearms malfunction in which a fired projectile does not have enough force behind it to exit the barrel, and thus becomes stuck. This type of malfunction can be extremely dangerous, as failing to notice that the projectile has become stuck in the barrel may result in another round being fired directly into the obstructed barrel, resulting in a catastrophic failure of the weapon's structural integrity."
The method I suggested is a standard because of the quicker rise from ignition to peak pressure and then the rapid decrease in pressure. This technique also precludes having to waste bullets and a larger amount of powder by fireforming with a standard rifle load.
However, the process of using a full load and bullet is perfectly acceptable as always. You will notice that these can be used for getting the rifle on paper while working on the fireforming. I was merely trying to save you some components which would be used later for your enjoyment rather than fireforming.
Checking for proper headspace is commensurate with making cartridge cases from alternate sources. I usually run one case through the resizing die and check it in the rifle chamber and then adjusting the die as needed. Once I have the proper headspace, I will finish the entire run of conversions, checking a couple throughout the process just to be sure.
These rifles are documented as having a short throat so using the chamber (throat) to push bullets back into the case will cause a rise in pressure that the normal load with the bullet seated off of the lands will not produce.
I am sending you the links to the disassembly of your rifle bolt and rifle by e-mail.
This is a website with a good FAQ section which has illustrations to go along with the explanations:
http://www.swissriflewebsite.com/FAQ.asp
Good Luck with your project!
Best.
I got new unprimed brass for the 7.5 x 55 Graf & Sons from one of the suppliers out there. Buying 284 brass and re-forming sounds like alot of effort to save some cents.[:(]
when you find free 284 brass re-forming is well worth it + its easy
quote:Originally posted by ENBLOC
I got new unprimed brass for the 7.5 x 55 Graf & Sons from one of the suppliers out there. Buying 284 brass and re-forming sounds like alot of effort to save some cents.[:(]
when you find free 284 brass re-forming is well worth it + its easy
the unprimed 7.5 brass that I could find was almost as expensive as loaded rounds. the 284 brass I ran across at my local gunsmith was much cheaper and I like to give them business whenever I can.