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Crimping -- 45 ACP

calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
I am reloading 45 ACP. My dies are marked for a taper crimp. The bullets that I bought do not have a crimp line.

The instructions that came with my RCBS dies say that with a taper crimp, the case should be .0005-.001 less than at the mouth. This doesn't seem possible to me unless I seat my bullet very low.

Should I not be crimping 45 ACP? If I should be crimping, what crimp do I use? And how low do I seat the bullet?

Comments

  • gunslinger720gunslinger720 Member Posts: 8 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I also reload 45 acp. Do yourself a favor and buy a Factory crimp die and as for the depth of the bullet get a good dial caliper and push the bullet into the case a little at a time until you get the coal (cartridge overall length) every loading book lists it by the bullet your using. As if you go too deep dangerous pressures can develop or squib loads. but keep Measuring the coal with the caliper and crimp there but if you want to do it right get the Factory crimp die and just seat the bullet in the case then change to the Fac.crimp die and follow the directions you won't be wrong in fact I load all my auto ammo with the Factory Crimp Die and Lee makes one as I have Lee and Redding. don't ever go by eye as accuracy will suffer and if pushed too far in you may too
  • calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
    edited November -1
    Thank you for pointing out the overall length step to me. I was only looking at the OAL MAXIMUM listed in the reloading book, NOT the OAL for the bullet that I was using.

    But as far as the crimping goes: how should I do it with my RCBS TC die?
  • Tailgunner1954Tailgunner1954 Member Posts: 7,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    1, Most 45ACP bullets DON'T have a crimping groove
    2, You apply the taper crimp into the sidewall of the bullet
    3, Follow the instructions, as written. Your over thinking it.

    4, LEE Factory crunch die isn't the answer to most things, let alone everything (IOW It ain't all that, and a bag of chips).
  • calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
    edited November -1
    Thanks. I'll go back and reread everything. I may have over looked something or reversed a step.
  • gunslinger720gunslinger720 Member Posts: 8 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    When I said crimp there I ment when the caliper says its at the coal thats where you'll crimp the bullet and if the bullet is too far out thats where it can cause a squib load by the powder being on its side and not getting a propper burn go through a reloaders manuel and see the tools that are needed its not for someone that hasn't been shown the basaics and shown what and how to do it right. anyone can reload a cartridge but not right. I'm only trying to give you advice that may save your fingers or worse your sight if the gun lets go. Always use starting loads and use more than one manuel. I have Speer, Hornady, Alliant, Hogdgons and a few on the web and consult all of them before I load a new load or change any component as all else changes also. I'm not trying to rip you just make you aware you can be hurt if not sure
  • gunslinger720gunslinger720 Member Posts: 8 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Some people prefer the seater,crimp die some like the Factory crimp die its a ford Chevy matter as long as the end product comes out ok its done well. I don't like it because it sometimes crushes the hollow point and the fc doesn't I guess its the bullet being used also. OK I'll admit I overlooked that part but my Springfield Trophy Match shoots one holers 8 out of 10 times so it works for me for others it may throw them all over the target but I still Prefer my 44no crimp worries
  • calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
    edited November -1
    Thank you both. I realized part of my problem. I'm not measuring in the same place on the crimp each time. I made a rough drawing.

    45bulletdrawing2.jpg

    Where exactly do I put the calipers? The "teeth" of the calipers are wider than the crimp.
  • Tailgunner1954Tailgunner1954 Member Posts: 7,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    The angle is shallower than your drawing, but you have the idea
    Clamp your calipers lengthwise on the case. Than look for a hair size gap at the case mouth (eyeball gauge)
    Else just catch the edge of your caliper jaw on the mouth.

    The crimp is there to keep the bullet from sliding back and to ease feeding, it dosen't take much
  • calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Tailgunner1954
    The angle is shallower than your drawing, but you have the idea
    Clamp your calipers lengthwise on the case. Than look for a hair size gap at the case mouth (eyeball gauge)
    Else just catch the edge of your caliper jaw on the mouth.

    The crimp is there to keep the bullet from sliding back and to ease feeding, it dosen't take much


    So it doesn't have to be exactly .0005 - .001 less than the rest of the cartridge?
  • B17-P51B17-P51 Member Posts: 2,248 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I crimp to .469 and seat the bullet as far out as practical to fit in the magazine when using heavier bullets.
  • partisanpartisan Member Posts: 6,414
    edited November -1
    Factory Taper Crimp Die. No roll crimps on semi auto.
  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,669 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think it is very important to understand what is going on here and to use proper terms for the job being described.

    The 45ACP headspaces upon the case mouth.

    The 45 ACP should NEVER be roll crimped for shooting in a semi auto.

    The taper crimp, NO MATTER the final outside dimension of the case mouth, MUST leave enough case outside the bullet for the case to headspace on the chamber front.

    The reason you have a specified length is to assure it fits into the magazine and cycles properly. You will find the 230 RN has a OAL LONGER than a 200 SWC but both bullets seat in the case about the same amount. As long as your OAL allows it to fit and feed from the magazine you will be OK.
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