In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.
Lucky_Lefty Member Posts: 7,971
edited May 2010 in Perry Shooter Competition Shooting and Reloading Forum
Are there carbide dies in pistol and rifle calibers?
Taper crimp "bottom feeders" to prevent the bullets from pushing back into the case during recoil and feeding.
I know crimping can be a pain in the butt, but you really should. Just set it on the first load, and everything should go according to plan. The only problem I ever encounter is when I use bullets without a cannelure. I have to be even more patient then. They can still be crimped, but I just put enough to keep them from pulling out or getting pushed in.
Yeah, check out the STICKYS. I forgot about the 9mm and 45ACP. You definitely need to check out what type of crimp you will require for any cartridge. Your die sets should be marked with what type of crimp you may require.
DO NOT and I REPEAT DO NOT roll crimp a 9MM or 45ACP. These cases headspace on the case mouth and if you roll crimp them, losing headspace, a heck of a lot of bad can happen and ZERO good will be the result.
A taper crimp, from a taper crimp die, is proper for those cartridges.
Re: bullets without cannelures and roll crimps;
Swaged, and even most cast, bullets are soft enough to take a decent roll crimp. Corbin (and others) makes a neat tool for adding a cannelure groove to jacketed bullets.
Ex. I had a .38-40 that loved 200 grain XTP's after I put a cannelure in them and seated with a modest roll crimp.
Setting a taper crimp properly is a little more difficult, because the differences are so subtle. The best way is to carefully measure the case mouth diameter with a bullet seated but not crimped and then very gradually adjust the die down (seating stem backed out to keep from pushing the bullet deeper) and re-measuring until you get just a bit of crimp. A couple thousandths ought to do it. Check the proper case mouth diameter from a SAAMI drawing if possible.
Finally, almost all crimp actions are dependent upon proper case length. That's obvious with a moment's thought. Handgun cases seldom if ever require trimming back due to growth, but it can be wise to trim them once in the beginning so that they are all the same.
I recommend getting a Lee deluxe die set. It comes with seperate seating and crimp dies. Not to mention the crimp die is their "factory" crimp die. Its easy to set up, just follow the directions. I never trim pistol brass, its completely unnecessary.
the Lee seating dies all have a taper/roll crimp designed in them
adjusted properily you can achieve a taper crimp less the roll without having to buy a fourth die
I have been using lee carbide dies to reload 40S&W this way for 10+ years now and have never needed a dedicated taper/factory crimp die
just my .02
you mileage will vary
Seems to me you could just run an empty, sized case into the crimp die, with it adjusted to give a firm crimp, and inspect the result. If you do not get a rolled case mouth, you have a taper crimp die. And, you have not even ruined the brass - just size and bell again.