Shotgun reloading, why specific shells?

grayingghost

Real new at this, wish to load some 12 and 16ga stuff, shot and even buckshot. Why is there such a specific listing of shell brands and styles? Different wads, white, red etc.? Been reloading metallic for years and mixing cases and even primers never made a difference. (I don't 'push the envelope' just easy shootin' stuff) Don't wanna blow myself up, but digging up specific cases seems a real pain. Perhaps someone could point me to a detailed web site to educate me.

Tailgunner1954

Differences in the powder chamber capacity and internal configuraton between brands/styles.

Back in the day, the Win AA red and Rem Priemer green hulls were close enough that you could load both with the same components (IIRC about 0.1gr difference in powder charge weight).

The 16ga is the tough one, but for your 12ga, stick with either the Rem or Win "target" hulls, not hard to find on the used market and they'll hold better to reloading than the cheap promo hulls will.

rstbkt69

The interior of the shells have different dimensions. The bases are all different for each MFG and even within the same MFG there are differences. This will cause certain wads to sit differently and that will change the amount of boom you get when you pull the trigger. The wads pressure on the powder determines how much pressure is generated. Also on the wads, certain wads seat further or higher in the shell and what ever amout of shot you fit in will determine how your crimps are which will also determie how big the boom is. Most reloaders in shot shells, at least I am, are more interested in consistant speed, and then a consistant pattern. Changing the loading data could result in pressures that are too high and could destroy your shotgun and damage your body. Follow the Manuals just as you would for your metalic reloading. Basically you could pick your shells, and the empties on the dirt from wally world bulk packs wont last long and I doubt you will find much data on them anyway, and then pick a powder you like and buy the wad needed for the amount of shot you want to throw. If I dind't want a specific load for trap I would not reload. Its too cheap to buy at wal mart for 12 ga. 16 ga is a little expensive in commercial loads so you could possibly save some money on those.
Shot shell reloaders usually have a specific brand of empty that they like to use and will buy, scrounge, trade and shoot factory just to get the shells. Remington STS and winchester AA are just a couple that are popular. I don't usually try to talk anyone out of reloading shoguns shells, but trying to start with two different gages and not sounding like you are a competitive shooter I would not try it just yet. Buy a lyman shotshell reloading book and read the first couple of chapters. If you don't want to try it sell or trade the manual. If it makes sense aafterwards you already have your loading data. I reload metalic for accuracy and price. My shot shell loading is for performance and price.

dakotashooter2

Note that you are working with a lot lower pressures than metalic cartridges, thinner barrels and less durable cases.While a metalic cartridge can generally handle an extra few thousand PSI without any damage the same overload in a shotshell with 1/2 or 1/3 the allowable pressure could case some serious problems. Since the mechanics of metalic vs shotshell are slightly different you have more variables to control with the shotshell.

jonk

To a certain extent I would say it doesn't matter, if you stick with light loads. But what fits into brand X of shell just perfectly, in brand Y will be too much volume wise and you won't be able to crimp down at all; and in brand Z your crimp will cave in as there isn't enough material in the shell and the shot will leak out. That's the main reason as I see it. The powder/wad/shot specific load for any given hull is designed with 100% load density in mind, so those crimps seal just so on top of everything.

rhope

Like jonk said I THINK you would be OK with light loads as long as you use recommended powder/shot combinations along with whatever wad it takes to give you a good crimp.

When I started reloading shotshells about 50 years ago things were a lot simpler. There were only a few types of (paper) cases. Wads were cardboard "nitro cards" in various thicknesses and felt or fiber "filler" wads (also in various lengths). You just needed to use a combination of nitro cards and filler wads (making sure you had at least one nitro card over the powder and a filler wad under the shot) to give you a wad column which would result in a good crimp.

I THINK a lot of the stuff about specific combinations of cases, primers, powder, wads and shot is more about possible litigation than anything else.

Over the years I have used pretty much whatever cases I had available with whatever wads would give me a good crimp. I have used plastic wads in paper cases, nitro cards and filler wads in plastic cases, nitro cards and plastic wads in combination, etc. Once again these were LIGHT loads, mostly for backyard clay pigeon shooting. And I have never had a problem.

grizzclaw

I use any of the Winchester, and any of the Remington hulls, the Claybuster AA replacements, noble primers, and promo powder. The only thing I change is shot size sometimes for the games like Protectors, and Annie Oakley. I use 1 1/16oz of 7s most of the time for everything, and 18.5 grs of promo with no problems in the 12ga. I would be careful with the buckshot.