lead bullets

njames

I just was wondering if the hard cast lead bullets leave enough lead to where you have to keep cleaning after so many shots like the other lead cast? The company I'm talking about are Laser cast.

Another question is the jacket lead, are they any good, example company Rainier Lead Safe.

And finally if you use the lead bullets, if you buy the 200gr or the 155gr would the 200gr lead the barrel more because there is more power pushing it out of the barrel?

njames

looking to get into lead bullets,being a auto mech. i have lots of wheel weights to make maxi-balls ect. being told the lead is to hard to use for hunting wont expand?/hard to get down barrel. any thoughts will it matter?

perry shooter

Cast lead bullets work Great in most pistols that are designed for them . SHOULD NOT be used in Factory Barreled GLOCK also good for rifle if you don't try to load then faster then say 2000 FPS.

njames

was planning mostly for muzzle loaders

Pearyw

Pure lead is better for muzzle loaders.

Rocky Raab

Yup, you nead pure or nearly pure lead for ML shooting. Wheelweights are quite a bit harder than that and seldom if ever perform adequately in ML guns.

You could probably work out a decent trade arrangement with your supply of free wheelweights (lucky dog, you!) with a metals recycler.

Pistollero1050

Wheel weights work great for modern pistols. 45ACP 9MM ect.

victorj19

You could get a 44 or 45 Cal pistol bullet mold and use the bullets with matching sabots. They shoot well but I don't know if they expand well on game. Lots of deer & bear were killed with MLs and the hunters worried about bullet placement and not bullet expansion.

If you have something other than a 50 ML, you'll need to reseach the availability of the proper size sabots and matching bullet diameter.

With the sabots, you can shoot your own cast bullets or buy JHPs.

jonk

Depends...

For patched round ball, I find wheelweights work fine. The rifling is biting mainly into the patch, not the bullet, and so it isn't an issue if the ball is a bit hard.

For minie balls, with the hollow base, hard lead works fine if you use a 5 grain 4FG 'match' over the primer hole, followed by your normal main charge (reduced 5 gr to accmodate the finer 'match').

For maxi and flat based though, as said, pure lead or a 40:1 alloy would best. The bullet just doesn't swell and upset enough for good accuracy with the harder alloys.

Also as said, sabots are a possibility. I shoot a 230 gr .45 Semi Wadcutter design in a 50 cal sabot with good effect. However, sabots cost money.

You may not be sunk though. Usually the clip on weights are a lead/tin mix, but the tape on types are often pure lead. Simple test: can you scratch with your fingernail? If so you're good to go.

Finally, feel free to try it. If the lead is free, you can give it a shot. Literally, hahah.

perry shooter

JONK has the Correct information . Patched round ball uses the Patch not the ball to engage the rifling The ball is tight to the patch so it shoots just as true. The debate can be made about what the ball does once it hits a Game animal but at least with my 54 Caliber Flint Lock I have only lost one deer and that was because it was just at dark and it rained that night. I should have used better judgment It was getting dark the deer went down and I could see him laying in brush at edge of cut-over I waited until it was as dark as I could see to shoot and when I stood up to reload I got the ball half way down the barrel when the buck got up and stumbled into the thick stuff . I went back next day during day light but rain had washed blood away. [:(]