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Why can't Yugo 7.62x39 brass be reloaded?

Maybe this is just a dumb question but I am new to the whole gun scene having built my first AK only 2 years ago and rewelding an Uzi last week. I have never reloaded but have watched it being done.

I am about to purchase a few cases of Yugo ammo for plinking and was told at the gun shop that the brass cannot be reloaded but offered no real explanation other than one of them thought the primers were unavailable for reloading. I took a Yugo round and a Remington round (both 7.62x39 of course) and they looked exactly the same to me on the outside, even the diameter of the primers. I plan to shoot one of each and take the cases apart to measure everything to see for myself but was hoping someone might have a quick answer for me, thanks.

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    cpermdcpermd Member Posts: 5,273 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Look up the difference in Berdan and Boxer primers.

    CP
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    jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    It can be reloaded... if you have a source of Berdan primers and want to go through the hassle of the berdan decapping method.

    The primer pocket is very close in size (diameter) to a standard boxer primer, but is just a tad looser. Plus the anvil difference.

    For oddball calibers like my 6.5 dutch, I bother with berdan reloading. For everything else, I just use boxer brass.
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    got2go2fastgot2go2fast Member Posts: 4 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks guys, those two words, boxer and berdan, were the impetus I needed to get the info I seeked!

    Flash holes, anvils, cups and pockets, OH MY! the things I have learned today!

    How the hell did anyone learn anything before computers and the interweb?

    Should I post those links from another gun forum here for any one else that might be as dumb as I, or let it go?
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    rsnyder55rsnyder55 Member Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you really want to reload, American manufacturers make 7.62x39 which is boxer primers, but it is a lot pricier than the surplus stuff.
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    mbsamsmbsams Member Posts: 1,076 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think most of us learned from reading a good book. As should you. There is too much missing and incorrect information on the www.
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    Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,202 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Amen, mbsams. If you are here, you CAN read, after all.

    I always recommend three load manuals. Your primary source should be the bullet maker's manual - because bullets have a radical effect on peak pressures. Even if they're the same weight, two different bullets can have pressures 10,000 psi or more apart with the same load.

    To check against mistakes in the bullet book, your second manual should be from the powder maker. Many powder companies test a variety of bullets and post data for the one that developed the HIGHEST pressure. Other bullets will therefore be safe.

    Finally, if there is a major discrepancy between the first two, you need a book from an independent tester. The best is Lyman, who actually do pressure testing (unlike Lee). The Lyman books also have an excellent section to teach reloading. They not only explain what to do but WHY you need to do it.

    Eventually, you will have an entire book shelf full of reloading books. I have a bookCASE full - plus a shelf in my reloading room. And I've referred to them all at one time or other.
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
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    got2go2fastgot2go2fast Member Posts: 4 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Yes mbsams and Rocky Raab, I can read but I like to look at the pretty pictures more! I plan on borrowing a few of those books from a guy I go shooting with on occasion, but never knew he reloaded. He reloads his own subsonic brass for his custom made,(I forgot the company he mentioned, but it does not look like the typical M11) silenced Cobray SMG, (very legal with all the correct stamps, just wanted to mention that before the NFA guys come on barking)as well as some others from Steves' reloading website.

    I knew reloading would be involved but I needed a quick answer before I pluncked down several hundred dollars on brass (on top of the several hundred cases I have saved already), when Wolf ammo would be just as fun to plink with. Thanks for the heads up on the brass availability rsnyder55.

    I have already learned that the MY brass reloads would be "married" to each rifle I have (barring any type of resizing thus case weakening), so 3 AK's means possibly three different case dims from each rifle and I am not sure I would be able to keep it all seperated (and maybe I have already fallen victim to misinformation!), so I might pass on reloading for now and buy a few more parts kits to build while they are still around, however expensive, keep an eyeball out for those berdan primers AND read up on the subject of reloading quite a bit more. I find it fascinating as I did not realize ballistics was so technical. Thanks again you guys, I wish my local gun shop had nice folks working in it like you kind people!
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    MobuckMobuck Member Posts: 13,793 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You missed a point of interest there. For semiauto rifles, it is recommended (read that required) that you full length resize the brass for reloading. Not doing so will almost certainly end with reloads which won't fully chamber. With the semiauto, this could result in a slamfire or out of battery discharge either of which is bad news for you and/or your gun.
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