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6.5 x 257 Roberts loads
bald_co
Member Posts: 21 ✭✭
I have a nice Arisaka sporter re-chambered for the 257 Roberts case and am having trouble finding load data for it. I am using 6.5 Sweede data as a guideline... any suggestions? I found that it shoots 100gr Nosler BT's and 125gr Nosler Partition's the best. The powders I have to try out are:
Reloader 15
Reloader 19
H335
Reloader 15
Reloader 19
H335
Comments
I've been told that Lyman's 41st Edition manual has reloading data for the 6.5-257 wildcat.
Using 6.5x55 data is fine as long as you start low and work up slowly, watching for signs of pressure.
Best.
Those are good powders for the bullets you want. The Re-15 for the 100 gr. and the Re-19 for the heavier 125-140 gr. It's seems you already have a starting point for those two, just work up carefully. One thing I'm not up on is how strong the Arisaka actions are. I've heard they're the strongest right on down to don't shoot over minimum load with them. A good gunsmith will hopefully clear that up for you.
What barrel length if I may ask? That may determine whether it's useful or not to go with slower powders.
For other powders you might try VV N140, N150, or N160 depending on bullet weights. Their powder is very consistent. If you want to push for speed with that caliber you might go with the 500 series. But, it's kind of the same thing as Reloader where they've added nitro glycerin to the powder to give it more pressure during burn. I don't use it. Also, the newer Hodgdon Extreme powders. H4895 for 100 gr., H4350 for most and H4831 for heavier bullets. I haven't used IMR in a while as I get way too much variation in velocity from summer to winter here. I understand though, they are going to start the "Extreme" coating process which will cut down on temp variations. As noted by nn you can start off the 6.5x55 or 6.5x57 with most powders. Work up until you have a good load.
I chatted with a helpful guy at Hogdon and he said that they didn't put H335 load data for 6.5x55 for bullets heavier than 107gr. because of keeping pressure low... so I figure I can use H335 for the 125 partitions if I work up slow... I was just hoping to save powder if anyone had already done the work up.
Sandwarrior... I highly encourage you to get a copy of P.O. Ackley's books on gunsmithing/reloading. He did a test on all available military surplus actions and intentionally put overpressure loads in them and tested to see when they would fail... He couldn't get a load big enough to make the Arisaka action unusable...it is a great read! That said, some Arisakas had the mum ground off and if the grind went too deep then the strencth of the action could be weakened. My favorite uncle has a 7.7 that is strictly for cast bullets because of a deep mum grind.
Semper Fi Y'all
I read up on the Arisaka action, and from what I see, it seems the type 99 was the super strong one. The type 38, which is more commonly encountered, isn't as strong but is still considered very strong in the world of mil-surp actions. The problem with them, which you said, and I assume the type 99 as well, is that some of the people removing the "mum" ground too deeply and weakened the action. As long as you know you have a strong action then you could load as hot as what the cases are showing.
Honestly, in that case, I would lean toward 140 gr. bullets. Unless of course you like much flatter shooting loads. For getting out a ways I've used Berger 140 VLD's in my 6.5x55 and just finished shooting a batch of Norma 130 gr. Golden Targets. Both are excellent long range bullets. I've also shot the Nosler 125 Partitions, and they do well. My 6.5x55 is a CZ 550, but I did have a CG-63 for a while. Both are a real pleasure to shoot. I think you'll like that caliber. Just keep really good records of what you work up because if you set it down for a while and load for something else, it's tough to go back and remember all the good loads and little nuances for it.
I have the same rifle (6.5 x 257 Roberts), with the "mum" still on it, my great uncle took it off a dead Jap on Iwo Jima, bought it off my grandfather when I was 17. It is a flat shooting rifle with a dime sized group with iron sights at 100 yards. I shoot Nosler ballistic tips, 120 grain out of it and have been for years. Target shooting to deer (not elk or boar). These are the data I use from an old Speer loading manual, don't even have the cover, just the pages from the manual. Several companies still make the dies, RCBS, Redding, etc. All these loads are for the maximum recommended velocity, so decrease by 4 grains for the lowest. I use IMR 4350 exclusively for this round, but you can compare powders to pick the one you like best on charts for comparison.
87 gr Speer:
52.0 IMR 4350 3235 fps muzzle 2533 fps at 200 yds
120 gr Speer:
46.0 IMR 4350 2755 fps muzzle 2314 fps at 200 yds
140 gr Speer:
43.0 IMR 4350 2537 fps muzzle 2181 fps at 200 yds
Hope this helps, and happy hunting!!
I have a nice Arisaka sporter re-chambered for the 257 Roberts case and am having trouble finding load data for it. I am using 6.5 Sweede data as a guideline... any suggestions? I found that it shoots 100gr Nosler BT's and 125gr Nosler Partition's the best. The powders I have to try out are:
Reloader 15
Reloader 19
H335
this is an old topic but worth reviving- if you have a 6.5 x 257 and don't have load info handy for it, just use 257 Roberts load info for the same bullet weight- the 2 cartridges are so close they are almost identical except for .008" of bullet diameter. I just loaded for mine with 43 grains H4350 using a 120 grain bullet, to shoot through a type 38 sporter.
IMHO these 6.5 x 257 Jap rifles are great sleepers. 257 Roberts chambered rifles of any make often bring a premium over common calibers like 243, 308, 30-06 but in this case I only paid $100 for this rifle, and it was reblued with a refinished sporterized stock.
FWIW I also have (2) Type 99's in 7.7 Jap and what is written about the Type 38's being a better finished gun is true. The Type 99's are noticeably more crude and have obvious mfg. shortcuts evident.