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Carbide Dies, do I lube anything at all?

I'm about to run my very first set of dies/brass and need to know if there is anything to lube, since my dies are carbide?

I'm reloading new Starline 44 magnum pistol brass that has been tumbled clean.

I've been told that steel dies need lubing, but not carbide.

Any input would be great!

Comments

  • shoff14shoff14 Member Posts: 11,994 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You are correct for straight walled cartridges. You will need to lube rifle brass.
  • floorguy24floorguy24 Member Posts: 1,343
    edited November -1
  • Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,439 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Carbide rifle dies can be bought, but they are extremely expensive, and save no effort at all because you still have to lube the cases.

    In contrast, you practically can't find steel handgun dies any more, as they are all carbide. When you get your carbide dies, go ahead and size a dozen or so cases dry. Then apply just the faintest whisper of a good lube like (like Imperial Sizing Wax) to a case. When you feel the difference, you'll be astounded. Add that whisper of slickery to about every tenth case for true sizing ease.
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
  • perry shooterperry shooter Member Posts: 17,105 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Hello I would say it all depends on What kind of Press you are using. and what brand of Carbide dies . I respect Rocky Raab with his knowledge and advice. However in this case I have to disagree, IF you are using a Progressive Press I have 3 Star presses . 9MM,38special and 45ACP all have carbide sizing die I have loaded about 1000 9MM about 3000, 38specials but also about 400,000 45ACP . I have never lubed the first case in any of these and it takes VERY Little effort to run these progressive presses. They turn out Match grade ammo. I believe the dillon and other Good Quality progressive reloaders will also load any straight walled pistol case WITHOUT the need to lube the case, Especially if you have a case feeder.Lubeing a case would sort of negate the reason to have a progressive press.
  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,669 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    When loading target loads I never use any lube, the cases are not expanded all that much and resizing them is a breeze. When shooting OMG those are HOT full-bore teeth rattling 44 mags I will put just a smear of lube on my finger tips and "fondle" the cases before sizing them. There is a noticeable reduction in resistance on the press handle.
  • dcs shootersdcs shooters Member Posts: 10,870 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've loaded about 3,000 rds. of 44mag. with carbide dies.
    Have NEVER lubed the first piece.
    Clean brass goes through fine.
  • Pistollero1050Pistollero1050 Member Posts: 1,197 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Technically everybody here is correct but I would like to add something here. If you lube even with a carbide die your velocity deviation will be less. So that your overall deviation will be much more consistent. Better I don't know, but 1 less detail to not have to fight.[;)]
  • 375H&H375H&H Member Posts: 1,544 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:When you feel the difference, you'll be astounded. Add that whisper of slickery to about every tenth case for true sizing ease.

    Agreed . RCBS adds a foot note inside their " Carbide " 500 S&W dies stating to lube ( I believe ) every 10th case or so .

    For what little trouble it is , sure does make em go smoother . Try and lube a few then you be the judge .
  • Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,439 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Yup.

    I use Imperial Sizing Wax, and the method with that lube is to lightly swipe your fingertips across the wax, and then simply handle the cases as usual. Just picking them up to place them in the shellholder applies enough lube. Lubing (whether for steel or carbide) could not be any simpler, or more effective. Repeat the finger swipe every 10 to 20 cases. My original two-ounce tin has only a slight dip in the surface of the wax after almost ten years. Doesn't take much!
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    I don't lube them. Defeats the purpose. Might as well buy a set of used steel dies if I'm going to lube.

    The exception is slightly tapered cases like the M1 carbine.
  • Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,439 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Until you try it just once, friend jonk! It takes so little you need not bother removing it afterwards.
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
  • ArbyArby Member Posts: 668
    edited November -1
    Since I use a case lube when resizing my rifle brass...I don't really have a horse in this race. However, when looking up Imperial Sizing Wax I came across this article....Which contains commentary from RCBS regarding stuck cases and the use of wax lubes.

    http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=293530

    [?][?]
  • ButtButt Member Posts: 208 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Rocky Raab
    Yup.

    I use Imperial Sizing Wax, and the method with that lube is to lightly swipe your fingertips across the wax, and then simply handle the cases as usual. Just picking them up to place them in the shellholder applies enough lube. Lubing (whether for steel or carbide) could not be any simpler, or more effective. Repeat the finger swipe every 10 to 20 cases. My original two-ounce tin has only a slight dip in the surface of the wax after almost ten years. Doesn't take much!



    +1
  • 243winxb243winxb Member Posts: 264 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Tungsten carbide does not need lube. Titanium carbide needs a small amount now and then. RCBS is Tungsten.
    [url] https://saami.org [/url]
  • Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,439 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think the alleged RCBS comment in that link is absolute hogwash. IF it was actually made by someone at RCBS, it sounds like somebody made it up because RCBS doesn't have a lube as good as Imperial.

    Now, just to clarify, carbide dies don't REQUIRE lube. But it isn't forbidden, either. Using just a wee bit makes things go sooooo much better.
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,669 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    OK guys, what we older, more experienced guys are trying to tell you is that you can force it in dry if you want to, but it is so much easier and nicer to have a touch of lube on it so it will slide right in, no muss-no fuss and a lot less effort........

    Got it? [:D]
  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by bpost
    OK guys, what we older, more experienced guys are trying to tell you is that you can force it in dry if you want to, but it is so much easier and nicer to have a touch of lube on it so it will slide right in, no muss-no fuss and a lot less effort........

    Got it? [:D]
    We are talking about sizing brass, right Bruce? [;)]

    Really though, I've tried it both ways, and I don't deny a little lube makes it smoother; to me though a little more effort resizing (still minimal) is worth it compared to the extra step and mess of lubing, particularly if running them progressively.

    Your call, folks, either way just be safe.
  • shoff14shoff14 Member Posts: 11,994 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I don't notice any added pressure with the five foot handle on my Forster press. [:D]
  • 243winxb243winxb Member Posts: 264 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Titanium Nitride coated dies (Hornady) wear out/coating off, if not lubed. Tungsten carbide does not.
    [url] https://saami.org [/url]
  • floorguy24floorguy24 Member Posts: 1,343
    edited November -1
    So far, no problems without lube.

    However, that may very well change as a precaution/convenience in the near future. [;)]
  • ArbyArby Member Posts: 668
    edited November -1
    If you are running new unfired brass you may not notice much resistance or binding ....resizing fired brass may well be another story. You may get by with no problems without lubing new brass but you could screw the pooch when resizing fired brass without case lube.

    Experience can be a hard teacher.
  • StengunStengun Member Posts: 254 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Howdy,

    I use a single stage press and I use Dillion case lube.

    I load around 15,000 rds a year so a little lube makes everything easier.

    Paul
  • JustjumpJustjump Member Posts: 644 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Arby
    Since I use a case lube when resizing my rifle brass...I don't really have a horse in this race. However, when looking up Imperial Sizing Wax I came across this article....Which contains commentary from RCBS regarding stuck cases and the use of wax lubes.

    http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=293530

    [?][?]




    I'm gonna call B.S. on this one. I don't use lube on the pistol dies mostly because I'm on a dillon and I have developed a feel for what is happening on the press. If wax build up was a sticking issue, I'm sure I would have seen it in the thousands of other rounds run through other dies... I'm just sayin
  • chaneydchaneyd Member Posts: 56 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Using a Dillon 550b I lube only .44 mag cases. Goes a lot smoother.
  • Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,439 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'll make my final comment as an analogy:

    Carbide dies are a little bit like hot dogs. They are just fine on their own. But if you add a little bit of mustard ...
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
  • 03lover03lover Member Posts: 67 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have no problem resizing 45 Colt, 44 Magnum, 357 Magnum and 38 Special in carbide dies without lube.

    The 30 Carbine is one cartridge that rquires lube, even with a carbide die or the brass sizes with considerable effort and withdrawing the sized shell from the die not only requires more effort, but stretches some of the brass.

    It is known the 9mm and 38 Super brass will sometimes stretch withdrawing the shell from a carbide die that wasn't lubed.

    Much depends on how much the brass was expanded from firing. Large chambers and heavy loads size harder that tight chambers and light loads.
  • glynglyn Member Posts: 5,698 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I dont lube handgun brass but I do rifle brass on a Lyman pad.I have never lubed inside a rifle case,I am about to buy a frankford arsenal inside case neck lubricator that uses mica.Any one used them.
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