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5.56 reloading dies

I'm just starting out with reloading. I have a Lee Challenger press with the "Anniversary" reloading kit. I'd like to start out with reloading .223/5.56 and that's where I'm running into a snare. All of my empty brass is Lake City. The reviews on the dies I'm looking at all say not to use with mil cases. Where can I find a set of dies that will work with my surplus brass or was it operator error on the part of the people using the .223 dies with mil cases?

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    BHAVINBHAVIN Member Posts: 3,490 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I use Both Dillon and RCBS 223 dies. I load thousands of LC brass a year and all of it several times and never have had any issues with it.
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    243winxb243winxb Member Posts: 264 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    RCBS will tell you to use small base dies for auto loading rifles. Small base dies will size a few .001"s smaller in most areas of the brass. Using standard dies has worked for me when loading for all types of actions. You may need to swage the primer pocker, as most LC brass has a crimped in primer. Loading data for 223/5.56 is the same. Start low on the powder charge and work up as always. More great info here > http://www.6mmbr.com/223Rem.html On this link page,Sierra has load data for bolt or Auto.
    [url] https://saami.org [/url]
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    MobuckMobuck Member Posts: 13,812 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    There is no reason the dies won't work on mil brass. You need to use good lube to prevent a stuck case. I use Lee dies which normally size cases to fit about any chamber and use Midway spray lube applied fairly heavily. I still get a case occasionally that doesn't want to size fully. Those usually get tossed in a container and lubed with paste lube later. I cut my press handle in half last year and don't get as many stuck cases as I used to.
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    sandwarriorsandwarrior Member Posts: 5,453 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Any of the dies you are looking at will work for LC or any other mil-spec brass.

    If you do run into a problem where you are not feeding then you may need to go and get the small base die that 243winxb talks about. I wouldn't pay that unless you find your regular .223 die isn't sizing down enough.

    You have to remember that on the outside, which is what you are shaping, the .223 and 5.56 cases are the same. And although mil-spec calls out for "more robust" cases, there isn't a whole lot of difference between .223 and 5.56 cases either. A little background there to show you that you're on the right path.

    Edit:

    And, like Mobuck says use a good lubricant. I use imperial sizing wax now. It's not anymore expensive for a tin of that than any like sized spray or gel lube. IMO, it is the best lube out there.
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    catpealer111catpealer111 Member Posts: 10,695
    edited November -1
    I was aware that mil brass is slightly thicker. With that in mind, will I have to reduce the loads even more from the starting loads to compensate for lack of case volume? The rifle I'll be loading for is a 16 inch stainless steel bull barrel AR with 1:8 rifling and a 5.56 chamber.
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    Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,221 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    "Book" Start loads should be fine, but you almost certainly won't be able to get near Max. Try to find loads developed specifically for the AR platform, as powder choice can affect action wear and function. You don't want too slow a powder.
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
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    skyfishskyfish Member Posts: 1,068 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I would think any good std, Full legnth die would work. RCBS, Hornady, Redding. I would guess that your 5.56 chamber will work without a small base die. Mine do, I use a Hornady die. Have run my 223 reloads through 6 ARs, work in all.

    Make sure you are bumping the shoulder back, or the case will get stuck in the chamber. It may take a significant cam over on the press. Check your brass after resizing, with no primer or bullet. Put brass half way in chamber, let bolt close freely. Sould eject with no effort.

    I'll agree on use a good powder choice. With 50-55 grain bullets I've used Accurate 2015, 2230, Ramshot X-Terminator and TAC. Have fun.
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    sandwarriorsandwarrior Member Posts: 5,453 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by catpealer111
    I was aware that mil brass is slightly thicker. With that in mind, will I have to reduce the loads even more from the starting loads to compensate for lack of case volume? The rifle I'll be loading for is a 16 inch stainless steel bull barrel AR with 1:8 rifling and a 5.56 chamber.


    Catpealer111,

    That's exactly how mine is set up. 16" barrel, 1-8" twist with a 5.56 chamber. What I run out of mine is 25.5 gr. of RE-15 behind either a 75 gr. Hornady HPBT or a SMK 77 or Nosler CC 77 gr. That gives me 2690 FPS out of the short barrel. Those loads in a 5.56 chamber are not too hot.

    THEY ARE TOO HOT in a .223.

    Even with the erosion my .223 has experienced the chamber is still a little too tight to push them that hard. I did chrono them and got 3100 fps (26" barrel). So, I downloaded them to 24.8 gr. and now get 2980.

    IMO, you got two of the best things you could if you were to go with this caliber, and that is the 1-8" twist and the 5.56 chamber. Accuracy may not be pinhead tight like a new .223 chamber, but it is nearly always good enough at sub-moa. 16" vs. a 26" is a matter of necessity or want. Sometimes getting better velocity isn't convenient enough when climbing in and out of a truck. The lost velocity can be compensated for in other ways.
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