Expander Die

uni82

Is there a proper way to set up a expander die? Do I insert the shell holder with a case and lower the ram, then thread the die down until it makes contact? This is 45 acp. Never loaded before. New to straight walled cases.

Thanks!


-JD

perry shooter

The case mouth needs to be BELLED in other words slightly larger then the case OD this will allow for easy entry of the base of the bullet during seating / then the seater die but even better a separate Taper crimp die will finish the process. See sticky "some of the top post on this forum . Thoughts on crimping semi auto Pistol ammo.......

uni82

How much of the mouth needs to be belled (depth)? a couple thousandths? a couple hundredths? How do I set the expander die to the proper mouth belled expansion depth? How do I crimp? The die set that I purchased didn't come with a crimp. Is it 100% necessary to crimp?

I apologize ahead for my volume of questions. My Kimber will be coming in any day now and I don't want to rush it. I want to reload efficiently and correctly. Thanks for all the help guys!!!!



-JD

dcs shooters

Bell the case mouth just enough to let the bullet set down in it. For lead bullets the belling is necessary to not shave lead.
Your seating die will crimp the brass, BUT as a 45ACP head spaces on the case mouth you don't want a crimp into the bullet. That is why you need a taper crimp die.
Depending on the make of the die set, you might be able to set the crimp die to juat take the bell out of the brass. Sometimes this will let your gun feed the round, sometimes not [B)]
Like Perry said read the sticky above on crimping semi-auto rounds [;)]

uni82

awesome thank you guys!

sandwarrior

uni82,

I totally agree with what the previous posters have said. "Bell" it just enough to let the bullet in without letting it get 'shaved'. Lead has a bit more propensity to 'shave' than does the copper of jacketed bullets. What I normally do is run a case up into the press after sizing it, then run the 'belling' die down until it touches. 1/16th -1/32nd of a turn is about all you would need.

It is critical this works in conjunction with your seating/factory crimp die (I use one on my .40's). Don't bell it so much it's hard to get it crimped back down to normal. Remember the .45 ACP headspaces off the mouth of the case. It can't do that if it is crimped too tight. Most dies won't let you do that, but it is a point to remember. I use the factory crimp dies to straighten out cases after loading as much as anything.

uni82

thank you sandwarrior, that really cleared it up. Specific dimensions with directions. I bought a box of shells for my Kimber just to see what it should look like and I called Kimber yesterday, gun was shipped!!!! I will have it in my hands on Friday!

Bought the box to break in the barrel. Then I will reload some to try out. I have 200 gr L.S.W.C. try those first. I don't know if my die set has a crimp die. I would have to purchase one correct?

I bought the R.C.B.S 3-Die Carb TC Set .45 ACP/AR/GAP set. P/N 18915

Did i purchase the wrong dies for the crimp?


Thanks!

-JD

bentley47

No, you are good to go. The .45 ACP dies will taper crimp. The crimp is in the die body of the seater die. Some folks like to seat and crimp in two operations (including me). Other folks are okay with seating and crimping in the same step. Back out the die a turn or so from where it contacts an empty case. Then set up the seater plug for the OAL you need. Seat them all if you are going to use two steps. If one step, screw out the seater plug several turns, screw the die body down the get the crimp you need (.469-.472 ish), then screw the seater plug back down to contact the bullet and lock it all.