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Problems, need help! Still.....
bambambam
Member Posts: 4,814 ✭✭✭
I just loaded 50 7mm Rem Mag w/ Hornady 162gr A-max.
I bought 100 pcs of WW Super brass in June and just now getting around to loading them. They weren't new but looked brand new. I didn't know what they had been shot out of so I full length sized them.
I loaded up the 50 to fire in my chamber to load again with a neck sizer. I chambered one to make sure it feed ok out of the mag. It wouldn't go into battery! 3/32" from closing the bolt.
I checked them all, 9 out of 50 work.
I looked at my FL die and realized my die wasn't touching the shell holder, resulting in partial case sizing.[V]
I took one of the 50(100 pieces total) I haven't used yet and sized it and it wouldn't chamber. I lubed the case with Imperial real good and lowered the die about an eight of a turn. Almost stuck it.
That one case will barely let the bolt close.
I know I have a chore ahead of me pulling the loads.
Do I shoot the loads that barely go into battery and let my chamber form them or will it hurt my POS Model 770's chamber?
I bought 100 pcs of WW Super brass in June and just now getting around to loading them. They weren't new but looked brand new. I didn't know what they had been shot out of so I full length sized them.
I loaded up the 50 to fire in my chamber to load again with a neck sizer. I chambered one to make sure it feed ok out of the mag. It wouldn't go into battery! 3/32" from closing the bolt.
I checked them all, 9 out of 50 work.
I looked at my FL die and realized my die wasn't touching the shell holder, resulting in partial case sizing.[V]
I took one of the 50(100 pieces total) I haven't used yet and sized it and it wouldn't chamber. I lubed the case with Imperial real good and lowered the die about an eight of a turn. Almost stuck it.
That one case will barely let the bolt close.
I know I have a chore ahead of me pulling the loads.
Do I shoot the loads that barely go into battery and let my chamber form them or will it hurt my POS Model 770's chamber?
Comments
Turn your die down until it touches the shell holder , then turn it down another 1/8 turn or so , until you feel it cam over just a little , this will set the shoulder back some and your rounds should chamber. If the bolt on your 770 is still hard closing , turn your die down another "C" hair until the bolt closes nice and easy .
As far as the rounds you have loaded that won't chamber , pull them apart and start over , most folks who reload have had to pull rounds apart at one time or another , I know I'v had to do it [:o)]
If you use a hamer type puller be careful , I would just put the rounds in the shell holder , and with no die in the press , grab the tip of the bullet with pliers and lower the ram , nice and easy won't damage the bullet and you can dump the powder charge into your other cases .
Hope this helps ya out .
There's a lesson to be learned from this. ALWAYS check a few sized cases in your rifle before loading to be sure this doesn't happen again.
Thanks for the advice 375H&H, Mobuck[^]
This Imperial sizing wax is worth its weight in gold!
edit: 1/2 hr and I'm done. I used a pair of electric wire strippers to grab the very tip. You can hardly tell I pinched them.[^]
Is the shoulder not being pushed back far enough, or is it something else? A common issue is setting the body of the seating die too deeply resulting in crushed shoulders forming a donut, often invisible to the eye.
I'd soot the neck and shoulder of a case and then try chambering and see where the stop is.
Firts off, some how, my die got moved up. I had it set on the shell holder then turned down 1/3 turn more. My brass was used and fired in who knows what, and who knows how much powder.
I just about use the neck sizer only on my brass. This was the problem I think. The brass needed FL sized and I didn't get it sized the first time because the die was about 1/8 from the shell holder.
I trimmed all my cases to 2.490, debured them, sized and loaded. When I tested the fit in my chamber thats when I discovered my problem.
I pulled the loads, resized the brass, reassembled them, and now they fit.
If there is another cause with the brass I don't know? I'll try sooting the neck and shoulder and see if that turns up anything cause I have 50 more that havent been touched yet.
I really appreciate everyones input, and helping me along.[^]
I could see a ring 3/32" from the belt where the chamber was rubbing on the brass. I measured right adjacent to the belt and it was .312- 3.13. The ones that were chambering ok measured .310-.311.
Firts off, some how, my die got moved up. I had it set on the shell holder then turned down 1/3 turn more. My brass was used and fired in who knows what, and who knows how much powder.
I just about use the neck sizer only on my brass. This was the problem I think. The brass needed FL sized and I didn't get it sized the first time because the die was about 1/8 from the shell holder.
I trimmed all my cases to 2.490, debured them, sized and loaded. When I tested the fit in my chamber thats when I discovered my problem.
I pulled the loads, resized the brass, reassembled them, and now they fit.
If there is another cause with the brass I don't know? I'll try sooting the neck and shoulder and see if that turns up anything cause I have 50 more that havent been touched yet.
I really appreciate everyones input, and helping me along.[^]
Regarding your first statement, do make sure you inspect those cases on the inside for incipient case head separation. i.e. look or feel for a groove on the inside where you described the 'bright ring' at. The worst offender for causing that is reloading brass in one rifle then another. Once you start reloading brass, keep it with the rifle you reloaded it for. The minute differences in headspace are what cause that.
quote:Originally posted by bambambam
I could see a ring 3/32" from the belt where the chamber was rubbing on the brass. I measured right adjacent to the belt and it was .312- 3.13. The ones that were chambering ok measured .310-.311.
Firts off, some how, my die got moved up. I had it set on the shell holder then turned down 1/3 turn more. My brass was used and fired in who knows what, and who knows how much powder.
I just about use the neck sizer only on my brass. This was the problem I think. The brass needed FL sized and I didn't get it sized the first time because the die was about 1/8 from the shell holder.
I trimmed all my cases to 2.490, debured them, sized and loaded. When I tested the fit in my chamber thats when I discovered my problem.
I pulled the loads, resized the brass, reassembled them, and now they fit.
If there is another cause with the brass I don't know? I'll try sooting the neck and shoulder and see if that turns up anything cause I have 50 more that havent been touched yet.
I really appreciate everyones input, and helping me along.[^]
Regarding your first statement, do make sure you inspect those cases on the inside for incipient case head separation. i.e. look or feel for a groove on the inside where you described the 'bright ring' at. The worst offender for causing that is reloading brass in one rifle then another. Once you start reloading brass, keep it with the rifle you reloaded it for. The minute differences in headspace are what cause that.
I didn't know that. Thanks[^]
Are you saying I shouldn't buy used brass anymore?
quote:Originally posted by sandwarrior
quote:Originally posted by bambambam
I could see a ring 3/32" from the belt where the chamber was rubbing on the brass. I measured right adjacent to the belt and it was .312- 3.13. The ones that were chambering ok measured .310-.311.
Firts off, some how, my die got moved up. I had it set on the shell holder then turned down 1/3 turn more. My brass was used and fired in who knows what, and who knows how much powder.
I just about use the neck sizer only on my brass. This was the problem I think. The brass needed FL sized and I didn't get it sized the first time because the die was about 1/8 from the shell holder.
I trimmed all my cases to 2.490, debured them, sized and loaded. When I tested the fit in my chamber thats when I discovered my problem.
I pulled the loads, resized the brass, reassembled them, and now they fit.
If there is another cause with the brass I don't know? I'll try sooting the neck and shoulder and see if that turns up anything cause I have 50 more that havent been touched yet.
I really appreciate everyones input, and helping me along.[^]
Regarding your first statement, do make sure you inspect those cases on the inside for incipient case head separation. i.e. look or feel for a groove on the inside where you described the 'bright ring' at. The worst offender for causing that is reloading brass in one rifle then another. Once you start reloading brass, keep it with the rifle you reloaded it for. The minute differences in headspace are what cause that.
I didn't know that. Thanks[^]
Are you saying I shouldn't buy used brass anymore?
Nope, you should continue to buy and use range brass that is acceptable after inspection. Unless of course you seek high accuracy then you should buy quality new brass and use that.
I should have clarified a bit further. You can use range brass or bulk brass from someone that has been 'once fired' in another rifle without a problem. The problem begins when you size the brass to more than one rifle. The head/web areas see little stretch during firing and then resizing. As it work hardens it wants to remain about the same. Above the web, the body of the case tends to see more movement during both firing and resizing. If you fire the brass in multiple chambers, you'll see even more stretch. Thus it accelerates the possibility of incipient case head separation. I had this happen on my 7x57 in two different instances. First, in a pinch I swapped brass between my hunting 7x57 and my target 7x57. That produced 38 bad cases I saw when I went to reload. Exactly how many times I fired at that last Princeton shoot. Then somehow or other I realized I got my .257 bolt swapped with my 7x57 (they look almost exactly alike on the outside. That produced about 30 more bad cases. I swapped the bolts back when I saw it and the problem went away. In the first case there were actual separations. In the second case there was a bright ring. In both cases all the brass was scrapped.
The first two photos show the mark on the case by the belt. I turned the die down to size next to the belt better and I got a mark around the neck.(shown in pic 3 &4)
Is there a new wildcat that needs a 7mm Rem Mag case? Thats what I'm thinking. I think someone screwed up some brass and thought they would sell them off.[:(!]
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The FPOS has the bolt handle GLUED on![:(!][:(!]
What brand of dies and press are you using. Check the shellholder for fit in the ram and for crud not letting the shell fit all the way into the shellholder. Remove the decapping rod and look inside the die for any damage/irregularites(sp?) Could be the brass, got anyone close that could try their gear?
I did that[V]
Too late I snapped the damn bolt handle off![B)]
Regarding your sizing issue, I wonder if the brass you have has been stretched excessively through repeated reloading in an overly long chamber, or fired several times and neck sized to the point a regular sizing die will not put the cases back to specs?? Redding makes a body die that is supposed to correct the sizing issue for brass that is out of spec, but I have no experience with this.
At this point, I think I would toss the cases as the cost to maybe fix is probably more than what they are worth, not to mention the cost to repair the damaged bolt.
I am pretty sure I have the same issue with some 300 mag brass, my sizing die will not re-size the case enough to chamber. I used my RCBS Precision Mic to check the shoulder position, and the readings were all .014" to .015", which I think is way past what is acceptable.
Let me re-phrase:
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The FPOS has the bolt handle GLUED on![:(!][:(!]
OUCH! Tell me again which model of rifle this was????[;)][;)][}:)][;)] You must be really strong to break all that glue[:0]
Don't feel bad, I've done it too.
Anyhow, they are just silver soldered on. It won't be a big deal to get it back on there. You can do it, but I'd recommend a gunsmith as he can time it.
The reason charliemeyer007 asked if you cleaned out the shellholder is because your case has the classic 'scrape' of a case that didn't go into the die squarely. Held out usually by a stray kernel of powder lost/picked up during an earlier reloading operation. I think he and I see the same thing. It only takes one little piece. Make sure you check each time to make sure it remains clean.
Don't feel bad, I've done it too
The mark on the mouth of the case is just a residual crimp mark. You didn't do that.
You must have a tight chamber, when compared to SAAMI measurements. http://www.saami.org/PubResources/CC_Drawings/Rifle/7mm%20Remington%20Magnum.pdf