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Crossbow Questions

DerBarbarianDerBarbarian Member Posts: 289 ✭✭
Hey guy's I recently picked up a Barnett Crossbow, I have a couple of questions. Can you guys recommend any good Crossbow specific forums I should register on? Also I would like to pickup some bolts preferably in bulk as they seem to be quite a bit cheaper, are there any good places you would recommend looking for supplies and such?

Comments

  • DerBarbarianDerBarbarian Member Posts: 289 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    OK Cats...I am NOT a big time hunter or archer or whatever but I have some questions re crossbows.

    I have a Barnett something or other that is pretty powerful...#300 I think. I mess with it in the yard every once in a while and now may have an opportunity to go hunt whitetails with it. It will send a bolt through two hay bales easily, but the dadgum "fletches" get ripped off.

    Here are my questions

    I can hit a clay pigeon at 125' with consistancy (%80). IS THIS ACCURATE ENOUGH AND ENOUGH DISTANCE?

    The bolts I have came with the crossbow and are just pointed, but they screw on and off. I guess I need broadheads. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO BUY THEM CHEAPLY? ARE THE THREADS FOR THE BOLTS I HAVE NOW UNIVERSAL?

    IS THERE A GREAT SOURCE FOR BOLTS...IS GB A GOOD SOURCE....?

    Thank you for your help.
  • edgecamedgecam Member Posts: 3,280
    edited November -1
    Your local archery shop would be the best place to go for hands on advise and to make sure you get the right bolts for your crossbow.
  • MobuckMobuck Member Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I found that crossbows are somewhat like firearms in their preference of projectiles. Maybe not so much the crossbow itself but the combination of broadhead and bolt may not produce the expected or hoped for results.
    Case in point. I bought several carbon bolts and 2 dozen 2219 aluminum bolts. When I tried my choice of broadhead on the carbon bolts, accuracy was not what I wanted. I swapped in the aluminum shafted bolts and now have pinpoint accuracy. Now, if I wanted to use Rage broadheads, the carbon shafts work great.
    I would make sure the components work as needed before buying in bulk.
  • bambambambambambam Member Posts: 4,818 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    What model did you buy? Have you used it yet, and like it?

    I'm looking to buy a Quad 400 myself, curious make model you chose.
  • MobuckMobuck Member Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Mine is either Revolution or Penetrator can't remember which but it was a discontinued model from 2010-11. Uses 22" bolts @ 350 fps. I found it very accurate using carbon arrows with target points and Rage b-heads but had to change to aluminum 22-19 for the 125 grain Thunderheads I had. I killed 3 does prior to rifle season. Three shots(32,24,and 37 yards)and all fell in sight. In my case, arrows(bolts) are a single use item. Lost 1 and buggered 2 although one b-head killed 2 deer-only required a new set of blades to reuse. Maybe could go again but set aside for practice since it imbedded in a leg bone and may have been slightly bent.
  • bambambambambambam Member Posts: 4,818 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am looking at the Quad 400 because it seems to have the most power/speed (112ft/345fps) in the $400 price range.

    I'm really not concerned with draw weight as long as it performs.

    I have handled a few crossbows and I want the one I pick to have a nice trigger also.

    I've shot a Ten Point model and wasn't impressed at all. I guess the more expensive models have the better features as with most brands of things.
  • MobuckMobuck Member Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    My cousin bought a current model Barnett Jackal. It has a better safety operation/location and the trigger action is smoother. I'm not exceptionally strong but have only a little trouble cocking mine with a rope device.
  • hobo9650hobo9650 Member Posts: 2,759 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    My Quad 400 (345 fps) is a dream with the hand winch on it. At age 77, that's only way I can use it.

    Very quite safety. Trigger pull is about 3 to 4 lbs.
  • Okie743Okie743 Member Posts: 2,700 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Just some FYI from my experience with a Barnett crossbow!
    I have the Barnett DOA! I think it's kinda equal to the Ghost 400!
    It has a minimum arrow weight for the 22 inch bolts per tha manual.
    Like minimum of 425 grains total weight including the 125 gr recommended head.

    I suggest you read your Barnett OWNERS manual immediately FIRST.
    It's also available on-line!

    Mine is kinda critical for good accuracy at 30 yards, (good accuracy means maximum of 3 inch groups or better using 4 different bolts, but within 2 inch accuracy with same bolt) has good trigger pull, automatic safety trigger (has to have a arrow loaded for the safety to be moved to fire pos)
    Mine is about 2 years old, I had the cables (some cable strings breaking on one loop at their limb cable retainer) and strings replaced awhile back and the scope setting changed by more than a foot at 25 yards. I used my rifle laser bore sighter in a cut arrow shaft and can now bore sight the crossbow after it's been worked on.
    At 30 yards using the recommended Barnett 22 inch headhunter bolts the bow will shoot 3 inch High and 3 inchs right with 125 practice points as compared to the 125 gr muzzy heads on target. I also found that some bolts require me to turn the moon nock to a different cock fletch then fine tune the string nock cw or ccw to get some bolts to group with the others. (termed spining the arrow)
    I've not tried the 2219 aluminum arrows, but his bow shoots so hard I suspect the aluminum 2219 arrows might bend in a target when testing.
    I replaced the sorry assed crossbow low light gathering scope with a real good nikon shotgun scope. The lighted crosshairs on the (a) crossbow scope do no good if you cannot see what is beyond the lighted crosshairs at early morning and late evening at prime hunting hours. Lighted crosshairs are not needed on a good light gathering scope! If you can see them you can't hit them.
    I've found that a local archery shop would be the on-line prices.
    The carbon Headhunter Barnett bolts will splinter or break into several pieces sometimes when a animal or target is hit. I've seen some snapped smooth into 3 pieces in smoe animals. (deer)
    I installed a stock crank and it's more user friendly when in a tree stand vs using the rope cocker! Had to buy a $100 broadhead target for testing the broadheads. IAfter reviewing I bought the Rinehart 18-1 broadhead target. It's about year old and kinda shot up. I use a practice point target for initial practice bolt testing then swithc to the Rinehart for the broadheads. I blunt the 125 grain practice points somewhat to reduce penetration in the regular targets and I carry a blunt practice ragged bolt for unloading the bow in the field before transporting.
    Only complaint, it's very heavy, but seems to be well built.
    I also found a allen screw under the scope mounting area loose (had to completely remove the scope and it's mounting to find the allen screw) casing some erratic accurcy about 6 mo's ago. Recessed Allen screw was loose by about 2 turns and when tightened the scope went off target a 20 yards.
  • bambambambambambam Member Posts: 4,818 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Okie743
    Just some FYI from my experience with a Barnett crossbow!
    I have the Barnett DOA! I think it's kinda equal to the Ghost 400!
    It has a minimum arrow weight for the 22 inch bolts per tha manual.
    Like minimum of 425 grains total weight including the 125 gr recommended head.

    I suggest you read your Barnett OWNERS manual immediately FIRST.
    It's also available on-line!

    Mine is kinda critical for good accuracy at 30 yards, (good accuracy means maximum of 3 inch groups or better using 4 different bolts, but within 2 inch accuracy with same bolt) has good trigger pull, automatic safety trigger (has to have a arrow loaded for the safety to be moved to fire pos)
    Mine is about 2 years old, I had the cables (some cable strings breaking on one loop at their limb cable retainer) and strings replaced awhile back and the scope setting changed by more than a foot at 25 yards. I used my rifle laser bore sighter in a cut arrow shaft and can now bore sight the crossbow after it's been worked on.
    At 30 yards using the recommended Barnett 22 inch headhunter bolts the bow will shoot 3 inch High and 3 inchs right with 125 practice points as compared to the 125 gr muzzy heads on target. I also found that some bolts require me to turn the moon nock to a different cock fletch then fine tune the string nock cw or ccw to get some bolts to group with the others. (termed spining the arrow)
    I've not tried the 2219 aluminum arrows, but his bow shoots so hard I suspect the aluminum 2219 arrows might bend in a target when testing.
    I replaced the sorry assed crossbow low light gathering scope with a real good nikon shotgun scope. The lighted crosshairs on the (a) crossbow scope do no good if you cannot see what is beyond the lighted crosshairs at early morning and late evening at prime hunting hours. Lighted crosshairs are not needed on a good light gathering scope! If you can see them you can't hit them.
    I've found that a local archery shop would be the on-line prices.
    The carbon Headhunter Barnett bolts will splinter or break into several pieces sometimes when a animal or target is hit. I've seen some snapped smooth into 3 pieces in smoe animals. (deer)
    I installed a stock crank and it's more user friendly when in a tree stand vs using the rope cocker! Had to buy a $100 broadhead target for testing the broadheads. IAfter reviewing I bought the Rinehart 18-1 broadhead target. It's about year old and kinda shot up. I use a practice point target for initial practice bolt testing then swithc to the Rinehart for the broadheads. I blunt the 125 grain practice points somewhat to reduce penetration in the regular targets and I carry a blunt practice ragged bolt for unloading the bow in the field before transporting.
    Only complaint, it's very heavy, but seems to be well built.
    I also found a allen screw under the scope mounting area loose (had to completely remove the scope and it's mounting to find the allen screw) casing some erratic accurcy about 6 mo's ago. Recessed Allen screw was loose by about 2 turns and when tightened the scope went off target a 20 yards.



    .

    Good to know.

    I've decided on a Barnett Penetrator. I will be able to order it in a couple weeks. I'll be sure to look it over for loose screws on the scope base.
  • Okie743Okie743 Member Posts: 2,700 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The loose screw that was causing havoc on the Basrnett DOA was completely under the scope base assembly. The scope and it's base screws had to be removed to access the additional hidden allen head screw.
    It held the scopes base mounting assembly to the stock assembly.

    I've seen some good buys on NEW DOA's lately on ebay and amazon.
    Read the owners manual for any crossbow FIRST carefully page for page, even if you think you know it all.
  • bambambambambambam Member Posts: 4,818 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I ended up ordering the Predator not the Penetrator model.

    I got it by UPS today. When the UPS lady rang the door she took off to her truck and left it. I opened the door as she drove away. The box had a golf ball size hole in the side.[:0]

    I opened it up and it was ok. Fhuew!!

    I read the instructions FIRST! I followed the instructions to assemble and they left out the step where you put the cable guide in & I had to take it apart/reassemble.[:I]

    I took it out to the farm before it got dark. I got to shoot about 15-20 shots probably.

    I used my broadhead layered target first & it went through like a sheet of toilet paper. I put a Yellow Jacket bag in front of it and it stopped it real good. It stopped about 4" from the fletch.(It's 375FPS & 175lbs weight)

    I decided on the 4X32 reticle scope package. It has 5 lines for yardage in it. I put the bag out at 15yrds, cranked the scope all the way up, & set line 1.(I chose 15yds because I wanted a line for up close pin point accuracy) I shot @ 25,30,35, & finally 40 settled into the second line.

    I was going to shoot it at 60 making an educated guess that would be line 3, but the wind was picking up, getting darker, & starting to drizzle.

    So far I am really excited with it. The scope is handy, the trigger is nice pull weight. I didn't shoot groups with it, but I shot at a 2" orange sticker and it hit it everytime once I got the yardage down. I'm guessing that's really good with the error you may get by not cocking it exactly the same way every time.

    I'll report back once I get some more trigger time.[:D][8D][:p][:D]
  • Okie743Okie743 Member Posts: 2,700 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You can use same weight practice points as your broadheads for a preliminary test and not rip up your block target, but the practice points usually won't shoot to same point of impact. If your scope is set for broadheds, do not adjust it for the practice points, leave it as is and just allow for the Impact point of the practice points on target at like 15 yards. The practice points may be as far as 6 inchs off at 20 yards, but all bolts should pattern at the same area, if not you have a bolt that needs attention, like rotate the nock. You can also slightly blunt the practice points for close range target/bolt checks to reduce target penetration and for a unloader arrow! (the practice points allow you to see that all your bolts want to group to same Point of Impact (POI) If you find a bolt not grouping with the others and if it uses the moon nock, try turning the nock to different cock fletch or just slightly moving the nock CW or CCW. If you rotate the nock and it get worse try the other direction. If the bolt won't spine adjust with the others, just label it as unloader bolt.
    I use a laser rifle bore sighter installed into end of a old cut off bolt and write down the bore sight place on target (won't be right on target) and if I have to work on my crossbow, take it apart tighten screws, change scopes etc, I know where to bore sight the bow for initial starting point, which is usually right on target again at 20-30 yards. When testing the laser I find that the laser bore sighter is usually with-in few inchs of the broadhead impact at 20 yards.

    You will also like the crank cocker on your bow vs the rope cocker! I bought my crank off of ebay at about 1/2 price. Great for tree stand useage.
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