advice for bowhunter

jamesgray

I have an older golden eagle with hardcams (they are almost triangular) It shoots super fast and is set up at 65 lb. My draw is about 29 and a half inches. Let-off is pretty good.

my problem is that I've been out of the country for over 18 months and haven't shot the bow in almost two years. now 65 lbs. is too much draw weight for me to do extended practice sessions. I need to Knock it back to around 50 or 55 so that I can practice for more than a dozen shots in a session.
(keep in mind I'm on a pretty tight budget)
My question is this: should I:
A. have a pro do the adjustment
B. Do it myself
c. Trade it in on a different bow

Question 2: i need a good affordable durable hunting sight usable in lowlight situations

Question 3; it seems no matter what height my target is, or what elevation I shoot from, I have this strong tendency to release the arrow so that I hit low. it's like the bow is pulling my left hand to the ground. I'm a small guy and I haven't been shooting in a while. could this be related to the fulchrum created by my nocking point?
is the bow pulling me down because I'm not strong enough?

your advice will be appreciated.

j1r11

Well, i will answer all your questions in the order you asked. Just so you have some confidence in my answers i have been bowhunting for 13 years. #1, the reason your 65 lbs is too much for you know is because your "bow drawing muscles" havent been put through the kind of excersise that that have been used too, this is normal.Have your local archery shop do the adjustment because unless you have the right scales and tools your top cam will be "out of tiller" with the bottom one. This is only going to cost you 5 or 6 bucks. I would only trade in your bow if you dont like the way it shoots. #2,leads to #3 DO NOT SKIMP on getting a good sight. Buy the keller pendullem sight(lighted)$70.00 and your #3 problem will dissapear. But some advise on your hitting low is that you are most likely gripping your bow to tight, relax your hand. Another reason could be that you are shooting at targets that you think are closer than they really are. E-mail me at jrobbin1@nycap.rr.com if you have any more questions.

sealyon

I'll try on the shooting low problem. I called it playing" peek-a- boo" when I did it. Would drop my bow hand to see the arrow strike. Try to watch the arrow hit the target " through your sites", not around them.Trying to keep your sites on the target until the arrow hits is part of the mechanics you need to practice so that it comes natural when hunting. If you think targets are tough, wanting to watch your hit on a nice buck will really test you....

sealyon

I'll try on the shooting low problem. I called it playing" peek-a- boo" when I did it. Would drop my bow hand to see the arrow strike. Try to watch the arrow hit the target " through your sites", not around them.Trying to keep your sites on the target until the arrow hits is part of the mechanics you need to practice so that it comes natural when hunting. If you think targets are tough, wanting to watch your hit on a nice buck will really test you....

sealyon

How did I do that????

devemn

I hope these answers will help you Jamesgray. I am a cerified archery teacher and bowtech.
To start with, your bow is older, you know that but that it will help with adjustments. Alot of the older bows were set to go from 50-55 to 65-70. All bows whether new or old perform better at or close to maximum poundage. So if you are planning to just shoot 50-55 and work back up to 65-70 in a short time frame than your old bow will be fine but if your going to shoot 50-55 for an extended period of time than I would look at trading.
I not going to recomend a certain kind of sight but if you want durability than decide on one that dosen't have any constintly moving parts. Decide on one that you set the pins and tighten them with srews and the pins have a good guard around them. Small or medium fiberoptics tend to be the best and brightest. Large dots tend to cover up to much of your target to make a pit point shot. Farther away the target the worst they are.
Now for shooting low. It is very unlikely that it is your nocking point though your string could of stretched sitting for so long. Have your local archery shop check that for you. Should cost you little to nothing. More than likely it is your shooting form. Do you come up on your target or do you come down on your target with your sight? Are you pushing thru with your left arm. Lots of people have problem with relaxing there left arm right at the shot causing low shots. Also as sealyon sayed, is the peeking problem. There are lots of reasons that you can shoot low. You really need to have an archery pro watch you shoot to see how your form is. It is bound to be a little rusty after 18 months of not shooting.
I hope I have help you. Good luck. Happy shooting

Devemn
bowtech[8)][:)]

jamesgray

Thanks for the input guys. I didnt' think of peeking or gripping too tight, so I'm going to lok out for that. Also I've been coming up to the target. Once in a while I try going down, but it feels uncomfortable. I believe my adjustment range for draw weight is 55-70 (It's not that old, but it was made before the single cams came out)I called it older because bowhunting has been evolving very quickly lately. Almost like computers. Buy one you like and get decent with it and then it is out of date.... Hitting the target never goes out of date, and I was very accurate out to 30 yards before, so I think I'll keep this one, have the guy at at the shop ease it up for me and work back up. Again, thanks for the good advice.