In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.

Which one

coloradoteencoloradoteen Member Posts: 31 ✭✭
I am looking for a new bow. I wondered if some could give some advice. It will be my first bow. I want a draw poundage between 60 and 75. Thanks in advance[8D]

Comments

  • marinerahmarinerah Member Posts: 99 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Depends on how much cash you want to spend. Also, there are many makes and models available. Matthews is a good bow!! Try it, you will like it. Good luck!

    "From this day to the ending of the world, we in it shall be remembered, we lucky few, we band of brothers, for he who today sheds his blood with me shall be my brother." Henry V
  • excaliburexcalibur Member Posts: 109 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Mathews is a very nice bow. But do you know how much it costs to make that bow?? 87.00 per bow...Well, I guess they have to pay for all those advertisments..lol Mathews shoots ok for some, not for me. I have been shooting the martin, septer 2 with the fury X cam.. what a shooter..very forgiving..I shoot a Martin jaguar, probably the biggest bang for the buck.. OK, I am a martin dealer.. I am a Hoyt dealer too. Look around at some different bows they are all in the same ballpark.. But not in price.. Good luck..
    PS
    I am not putting down Mathews.. Just cant shoot them the string keeps hitting my wrist and I had.. note had the conquest 2 still hit my wrist..

    excalibur
  • Stormtrooper 13Stormtrooper 13 Member Posts: 236 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The 60 to 70 # bow range for a first bow is pretty broad range.

    First off is how long can you hold a bow back at 65# with a 85% let off? In a hunting situation being able to hold it for 2 min is a good test. Them darn deer stop at the most inoppertune times. I've always been a "brute hunter" until lately. I always tweaked strings twisted cables to get more poundage & speed to shoot 3D, but in hunting them rules do not apply.

    It's been a few years since I've shot competitavly so I'm a little out of touch in the bow world as it stands. For a first bow I'd look in to a used one, because you'll always find a used bow totally set up, only a year old, for half the price of buying a new bow that is marginally better with the same add ons.

    I've spent more on a bow than any gun I own to this day by a couple of hundred dollars.

    I stopped shooting when the yuppies took over with thier comp. bows. I'd score a 280 I was having a good day, and they would score a 280 they were selling it all to buy the next"biggest: badest" bow cause that will make them shoot better. Also having a 60yrd. shot or 2 on a 3D course is out of range by 30yrds. for me. "Just a little to far for my comfort range. A moving target on a archery course is a shot I would not take in real life . "If you wouldn't shoot it in real life why practice on it"? Far as I'm considered they're teaching bad huntig habits.

    My first bow was a recurve yard sale special that I pounded a finishing nail in the handle to make a bow rest. My next bow was a old fred bear whitetail hunter. I've come a long way since then. It's something to shoot 30yrds. on one pin. With my old whitetail hunter I needed a pin for every 10yrds. I've seen good to exellent 3D shooters, that can't hunt whitetail deer.

    If you find a bow you can hammer a snuff can from 10 to 30 yrds. hold on to it. Years may pass, but that bow will still put one on the meat pole.














    qman_lr_105t.jpg


    Only the strong shall survive !!!
  • taco413taco413 Member Posts: 2,504 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Check out Reflex Bows. I have one and enjoyed it for 2 years. You can buy packages from cabelas or bass pro very reasonable. Taco
  • woodyd70woodyd70 Member Posts: 266 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I couldn't agree with you more ex...........a lot of guys are shooting the mathews, but is it really better? I don't think so. I also shoot a Martin, the Cougar III and it's tough to beat. I wonder when the Mathews shooters will realize that the price of the Mathews bow is a direct result of advertising cost. If you're shooting a Mathews bow and read this I don't mean to be offensive because the Mathews is a fine bow, but just open your mind to the fact that there are other bow manufacturers out there with great equipment like Martin for example that's been making bows for over 50 years.........

    woodyd
  • jpwolfjpwolf Member Posts: 9,164
    edited November -1
    I shoot a mathews MQ-32 compact. It is no longer made however as mathews likes to come out with a new bow every year. Rest assured they will be coming out with a new "compact" in the near future. They are expensive, but very good quality as are most bows that are out there nowadays. My advice to you would be not to sink alot of money into your first bow unless you have been shooting and know that you are sure you are into it. I was instantly addicted with my first shot. It is very expensive and time consuming to set up a good bow in a combination that works for you but well worth the effort. The more fine tuned your setup is for you, the more you will enjoy it. Depending on where you are in Colorado, you can make a trip to Cabela's in Sydney, just north of Sterling, and find over a hundred virually brand new right hand bows, and probably 40 or so left hand in the bargain cave that the prices have been slashed on. PLENTY to choose from. And the people there are very helpful in getting you setup. The only other place I shop is "Arrowdynamics" in Ft.Collins. They are very knowlegeable, as with pretty much any pro-shop, and can offer sound advice. Do your research, go to a range/pro-shop, don't be afraid to ask questions of the people who are shooting as archer's are alway's willing to help break someone new into the sport. Get some copy's of "Peterson's Bowhunting." This magazine deals mostly with equipment and can be very informative on what you might like. It is a process though, finding what works for you, and thus, can get costly as you replace this with that, and so on. The one major point I would like to make is that the distance from the riser to the string should be in the 7"-8" neighborhood or even more if you can find one. The greater this distance, the more forgiving the bow for beginner's with less than perfect form. Best of luck from a fellow Colorado archer.
Sign In or Register to comment.