help

47studebaker

I tried to post an avatar I resized it in photo bucket but when I add it here its hudge again whats up with that...[:0]

47studebaker

Hi again,

If you don't remember I recently started with a compound after a "layoff" of 30 years. Using a PSE, bisket, easton carbon excel. 20 yard group of 3 inches , 30 yard group 4-5 inches. Changed over to 100 gr. muzzys. No groups!!! 4 inches left 5 inches right some high one low and 1 in the center bull. What the * is going on? Switch back to practice tips and groups back to 3 inches. Is this bow going to be particular and I have to find the right broadhead? Any advice?

Thanks,
Steve H.

47studebaker

got my pics but need help getting them on here, my scanner software doesn't let me save the file...only export it into another document in my pc.

47studebaker

Looking to hunt tomorrow after I buy a new wisker biscuit and 2 arrows for my bow. ( Just got paid ) But with this old arrow rest it seemed it made me shoot more toward the right then my other one did...is it me or the rest? Seems at 15 yds I shoot fine, back it up to 20 and I miss by 5-? inches. Could use some master input on why Im shooting toward the right, I even adjusted my sights clear the right to make me shot straight ( I can barely even see a pin now) and it still doesn't seem to be helping. Need info fast...thanks all!

47studebaker

Maybe somone can help me out. I keep receiving a recipt on my personal e-mail every time someone post on my Jerky thread . did I hit the wrong button to request this. and how do I get it to stop. [:I][:o)]

47studebaker

Anyone kno of any nice public land near Ohio bordering states that require a tag to be drawn? Lookin at Kentucky at the moment for next year

47studebaker

The 'lady' who owns the land (no house) behind our house does not want me to shoot that way anymore. (^&%$ASDYG^$^#^%$&^$%$#^%#) Anyway......Every other way is a house.... so my only option is to shoot towards the side of our shop. It is concret block and I am thinking... lets piss this woman off and make the nicest possible back stop I can. So I have 30 feet wide and 15 feet high of an area. What do you guys think I should put in front of the concrete block? I would like to have a few areas at different heights, but I am trying to think about a substance that will keep my arrows from hitting the block. Hay is not an option because I am too close to the river and hay attracts rats/mice which then attracts cotton mouths. Any suggestions? I would like something that can withstand rain and that is not too expensive.

its all about pucks and bucks

gogolen

I would try a different broadhead, might I reccomend either the talons or the NAP crossfire. With the Talons you can get them in 90 grains which in alot of cases will bring your groups closer to where you are shooting with field points. I have experimented with a lot of broadhead this summer and I have had the best luck with these 2. The Talons I tried in 100 grains were shooting 2 inches to the right with the advice of my archery shop owner buddy I went to the 90 grain version and my groups are right on the money now. The NAP crossfires I did not have to do anything with the flew great right from the get go. Some people may tell you to adjust your rest as you are shooting carbons, please DO NOT DO THIS, without shooting with a field point through paper first. So I guess I would take your bow in to the archery shop first try shooting through paper see if everything is good, if it is then try a different broadhead, if it isn't then get it to where it needs to be and go from there.
Sorry if I confused ya.

salzo

First, make sure your bow is tuned. Go to your archery shop and paper tune it-involves shooting through paper five yards away. Make sure the arrow is going through the paper true(hole is unifrom, not tearing heavily on one side).
I use Muzzy broad heads, and notice compared to field points, they tend to shoot high and left. I sight in with Muzzy PRACTICE BLADES, and they shoot just like the hunting blades.

Assuming your bow is tuned, and if I remember correctly, you are just starting up, it is possible you had a couple of bad shots, it has gotten in your head, and now is affecting your technique. Make sure IT IS NOT YOU. Go through your shooting very deliberately. If I am not shooting well, I very deliberately go through a check list. Make sure I take a deep breath on the draw, make sure my legs are firm, make sure my elbow is as high as I can get it, make sure I just move a finger upon release, make sure I do not jerk- I have to make sure I am absolutely certain I am doing everything right. If I am still having problems, I am almost certain it is the equipment. The better I have gotten, the more certain I am in assessing where the problem is.

One more thing-Stop taking twenty and thirty yard shots. Whenever I change ANYTHING(in your case, you have changed your points), get closer to the target-start off ten yards away. It is much easier to see where the problems are at the closer distance. You should AT LEAST start to group-you might be high left, right whatever-but if it is grouping, you can work from that. If at ten yards you are still all over the place, chances are, you have a problem with your bow.

"Waiting tables is what you know, making cheese is what I know-lets stick with what we know!"
-Jimmy the cheese man

buckeyboy

Nothing left to say[B)] both these gentlemen have given you the right advise. If your shots are that bad, the bow is definately out of tune, or you could possibley be torqueing the bow and the broadheads exagerate this, where as with the feild points they are more forgiving. In any case I agree with the advise they gave . first stop bow shop. Get some measurements nock point centershot then paper tune.
Good Luck[;)] if all else fails [:I]"I'm cringing" [:I]Try expandables they may band-aid the problem.[:0]

Islander1989

One more thing to consider, your fletchings may be too small to stabilize your broadhead. I have seen guys shoot great groups with field tips and 2-3" fletching, but when they put on the broadhead, their groups aren't groups anymore. Every shot is all over the place. When they go to a larger 4-5" fletching, the broadheads will group again. Think of it this way, your broadhead acts some what like fletching on the front of the arrow. If the head and the fletching fight each other, the arrow is not stabilized. When the fletching is large enough, it overpowers the effects of the head, and stabilizes the arrow and you group well.

fishermanben

first try aligning your blades with your fletchings. Then, go to a larger fletch. Then, I'd worry about paper tuning.

Ben

I root for the and anyone who is playing the

gogolen

Ben,
Aligning blades with the fletchings on carbons is an impossible task unless you buy new arrows and align the insert while epoxying it into the shaft. Just a thought don't mean to be picky.

fishermanben

quote:Originally posted by gogolen
Ben,
Aligning blades with the fletchings on carbons is an impossible task unless you buy new arrows and align the insert while epoxying it into the shaft. Just a thought don't mean to be picky.


Really, I guess that makes sense. I've always used aluminum, so I can just heat 'em up over the camp stove. I have found that proper alignment is critical to tightening up my group, especially when using a straight fletch. Muzzy's use those rubber 'o' rings, right? Couldn't you just use a new 'o' ring and tighten it down until it's aligned? Oh, and don't worry about 'being picky'. I still have a lot to learn and take criticism well.[;)]

Ben

I root for the and anyone who is playing the

salzo

quote:Originally posted by Islander1989
One more thing to consider, your fletchings may be too small to stabilize your broadhead. I have seen guys shoot great groups with field tips and 2-3" fletching, but when they put on the broadhead, their groups aren't groups anymore.

Is there any drawback to using the larger fletching with practice points?? I always like to keep as much the same as much as possible.
I guess what I am asking, should you use practice points, with "practice fletching (smaller fletching)" and when switching to hunting blades, should you also switch to larger fletching? Or should you use larger fletching for all of your shooting?

"Waiting tables is what you know, making cheese is what I know-lets stick with what we know!"
-Jimmy the cheese man

fishermanben

quote:Originally posted by salzo
quote:Originally posted by Islander1989
One more thing to consider, your fletchings may be too small to stabilize your broadhead. I have seen guys shoot great groups with field tips and 2-3" fletching, but when they put on the broadhead, their groups aren't groups anymore.

Is there any drawback to using the larger fletching with practice points?? I always like to keep as much the same as much as possible.
I guess what I am asking, should you use practice points, with "practice fletching (smaller fletching)" and when switching to hunting blades, should you also switch to larger fletching? Or should you use larger fletching for all of your shooting?

"Waiting tables is what you know, making cheese is what I know-lets stick with what we know!"
-Jimmy the cheese man


IMO, if your broadheads are on target and grouping well, it is no big deal if your practice arrows have a sub-par group or are slightly off bullseye.

I root for the and anyone who is playing the

buckeyboy

All good advise but this poor Dude must be really confused by now[:0]. I think he should go to the bow shop it may be somthing real obvious. It could be almost any or all of the things you guy's meationed. Without seeing the bow it is just about impossible to determain whats wrong. Just don't want to see this guy start refletching arrows moving rest and other things that may not correct his problem. Do you guys agree he should hit the bow shop and let someone with expirence see the bow? they may pick up the cause right away. Not to lessen the advise you guy's gave him it was all good and all those things can cause the same problem.[:)][:)]

gogolen

Well since he may be totally confused now and his bow isn't shooting correctly anyway just go and get a new setup then everything will be okie dokie.

Islander1989

I think Buckey has a good point.

To answer the question that was posed about fletching for practice arrows, I would keep everything the same across the board if possible. If you go to a larger fletching for broadheads, use that same fletching for practice. Consistency is the key. You probably won't notice the difference for practice arrows between large and small fletching.

buckeyboy

Gogolen, let me Guess are you trying to sell another Mathews Outback I think you have sold two now or it it three???[:D][:D][:D]

buckeyboy

Gogolen, let me Guess are you trying to sell another Mathews Outback I think you have sold two now or it it three???[:D][:D][:D]

gogolen

Buckey, I should be making commision off of these sales, but hey I don't really selly them they sell themselves all you have to is shoot one.

47studebaker

Hi Guys,

Back again. First, thanks for the info so far. I finally got a hold of my brother in law (who owns the bow) He told me that he used 125 thunderheads in it. He also mentioned "paper tuning" it. I realize I didn't put it in the original post but I have been "clocking" the 100 muzzy's broadheads with the vanes (which measure 3 7/8 inches if that helps) The bow was set up at the shop, new string, kisser, bisket, nock stop, release, arrows, peep sight on string, stabilizer and "rubber squares gluded to limbs" and I'm sure some things I forgot) As my BIL had extra 125 thunderheads I put 5 together and got them to group (but it was 6 inches at 20 yards. I'm not happy with that!) The bow shop closed before I got off work but while on the phone she mentioned trying some different style/weight of heads and this "paper tuning" when I can get to the shop.

I think you guys are right on about the weights of the broadheads and I am going to get the "paper tuning" done.

Thanks, I'll let you know Monday or Tuesday how it works out. Thanks again, Steve H.

buckeyboy

Had the same problem once, with 100 gr muzzy I switched to 90 gr muzzy and what a difference. Groups were good . Sounds like your making some progress. No offence everyone has a different sight peramater. let someone else that knows how to shoot, try the bow they may be way off the mark but see how their arrows group compared to yours if they get a good close group . move the sight accordingly and then work on your form or torqueing the bow if this does not work then switch to 90 gr muzzy . This should do the trick? best of luck.Gogolen has a lot of expierence he will probley post some add info for you.

Buckeyboy

47studebaker

Hi Guys,

Went to the bow shop today. She "paper tuned" it with practice tips. said the nock stop was off a little as the arrow impact was "kicking up" on the paper. Moved it down 1/4 inch or less. Changed back to 100 Muzzys and shot for group at 20 yards, 4-5 inches. She walked away group spread went to 12 inches, shot another group back to 4-5 inches. Had me try "same" arrow with feathers instead of vanes, shot ok but not that much better. Said that is a problem that comes up with "old" bows, but didn't offer to sell me another bow yet. Suggested mechanicals so I got 3 NAP spitfire 100. "clocked" them and shot for group, 3 inches at 20 yards. I'm going to play with them some more and see what happens.

river

also check your release crispness