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47studebaker
Member Posts: 2,251 ✭✭✭✭✭
I tried to post an avatar I resized it in photo bucket but when I add it here its hudge again whats up with that...[:0]
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If you don't remember I recently started with a compound after a "layoff" of 30 years. Using a PSE, bisket, easton carbon excel. 20 yard group of 3 inches , 30 yard group 4-5 inches. Changed over to 100 gr. muzzys. No groups!!! 4 inches left 5 inches right some high one low and 1 in the center bull. What the * is going on? Switch back to practice tips and groups back to 3 inches. Is this bow going to be particular and I have to find the right broadhead? Any advice?
Thanks,
Steve H.
its all about pucks and bucks
Sorry if I confused ya.
I use Muzzy broad heads, and notice compared to field points, they tend to shoot high and left. I sight in with Muzzy PRACTICE BLADES, and they shoot just like the hunting blades.
Assuming your bow is tuned, and if I remember correctly, you are just starting up, it is possible you had a couple of bad shots, it has gotten in your head, and now is affecting your technique. Make sure IT IS NOT YOU. Go through your shooting very deliberately. If I am not shooting well, I very deliberately go through a check list. Make sure I take a deep breath on the draw, make sure my legs are firm, make sure my elbow is as high as I can get it, make sure I just move a finger upon release, make sure I do not jerk- I have to make sure I am absolutely certain I am doing everything right. If I am still having problems, I am almost certain it is the equipment. The better I have gotten, the more certain I am in assessing where the problem is.
One more thing-Stop taking twenty and thirty yard shots. Whenever I change ANYTHING(in your case, you have changed your points), get closer to the target-start off ten yards away. It is much easier to see where the problems are at the closer distance. You should AT LEAST start to group-you might be high left, right whatever-but if it is grouping, you can work from that. If at ten yards you are still all over the place, chances are, you have a problem with your bow.
"Waiting tables is what you know, making cheese is what I know-lets stick with what we know!"
-Jimmy the cheese man
Good Luck[;)] if all else fails [:I]"I'm cringing" [:I]Try expandables they may band-aid the problem.[:0]
Ben
I root for the and anyone who is playing the
Aligning blades with the fletchings on carbons is an impossible task unless you buy new arrows and align the insert while epoxying it into the shaft. Just a thought don't mean to be picky.
Ben,
Aligning blades with the fletchings on carbons is an impossible task unless you buy new arrows and align the insert while epoxying it into the shaft. Just a thought don't mean to be picky.
Really, I guess that makes sense. I've always used aluminum, so I can just heat 'em up over the camp stove. I have found that proper alignment is critical to tightening up my group, especially when using a straight fletch. Muzzy's use those rubber 'o' rings, right? Couldn't you just use a new 'o' ring and tighten it down until it's aligned? Oh, and don't worry about 'being picky'. I still have a lot to learn and take criticism well.[;)]
Ben
I root for the and anyone who is playing the
One more thing to consider, your fletchings may be too small to stabilize your broadhead. I have seen guys shoot great groups with field tips and 2-3" fletching, but when they put on the broadhead, their groups aren't groups anymore.
Is there any drawback to using the larger fletching with practice points?? I always like to keep as much the same as much as possible.
I guess what I am asking, should you use practice points, with "practice fletching (smaller fletching)" and when switching to hunting blades, should you also switch to larger fletching? Or should you use larger fletching for all of your shooting?
"Waiting tables is what you know, making cheese is what I know-lets stick with what we know!"
-Jimmy the cheese man
quote:Originally posted by Islander1989
One more thing to consider, your fletchings may be too small to stabilize your broadhead. I have seen guys shoot great groups with field tips and 2-3" fletching, but when they put on the broadhead, their groups aren't groups anymore.
Is there any drawback to using the larger fletching with practice points?? I always like to keep as much the same as much as possible.
I guess what I am asking, should you use practice points, with "practice fletching (smaller fletching)" and when switching to hunting blades, should you also switch to larger fletching? Or should you use larger fletching for all of your shooting?
"Waiting tables is what you know, making cheese is what I know-lets stick with what we know!"
-Jimmy the cheese man
IMO, if your broadheads are on target and grouping well, it is no big deal if your practice arrows have a sub-par group or are slightly off bullseye.
I root for the and anyone who is playing the
To answer the question that was posed about fletching for practice arrows, I would keep everything the same across the board if possible. If you go to a larger fletching for broadheads, use that same fletching for practice. Consistency is the key. You probably won't notice the difference for practice arrows between large and small fletching.
Back again. First, thanks for the info so far. I finally got a hold of my brother in law (who owns the bow) He told me that he used 125 thunderheads in it. He also mentioned "paper tuning" it. I realize I didn't put it in the original post but I have been "clocking" the 100 muzzy's broadheads with the vanes (which measure 3 7/8 inches if that helps) The bow was set up at the shop, new string, kisser, bisket, nock stop, release, arrows, peep sight on string, stabilizer and "rubber squares gluded to limbs" and I'm sure some things I forgot) As my BIL had extra 125 thunderheads I put 5 together and got them to group (but it was 6 inches at 20 yards. I'm not happy with that!) The bow shop closed before I got off work but while on the phone she mentioned trying some different style/weight of heads and this "paper tuning" when I can get to the shop.
I think you guys are right on about the weights of the broadheads and I am going to get the "paper tuning" done.
Thanks, I'll let you know Monday or Tuesday how it works out. Thanks again, Steve H.
Buckeyboy
Went to the bow shop today. She "paper tuned" it with practice tips. said the nock stop was off a little as the arrow impact was "kicking up" on the paper. Moved it down 1/4 inch or less. Changed back to 100 Muzzys and shot for group at 20 yards, 4-5 inches. She walked away group spread went to 12 inches, shot another group back to 4-5 inches. Had me try "same" arrow with feathers instead of vanes, shot ok but not that much better. Said that is a problem that comes up with "old" bows, but didn't offer to sell me another bow yet. Suggested mechanicals so I got 3 NAP spitfire 100. "clocked" them and shot for group, 3 inches at 20 yards. I'm going to play with them some more and see what happens.