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Novice buying a bow.
kaotikblue
Member Posts: 143 ✭✭✭
I am going to buy a bow in the next few weeks, but I am not going to go deer hunting until next year. I am probably going to get a 70 lb. bow. What is the maximum distance on average to kill a deer with a 70 lb. bow.
Comments
That can happen at any range, but it's likely to happen a lot more past 30.
The lighter draw weight makes it easier to shoot, and more enjoyable to shoot too... at least in my opinion. Also the lighter draw weight will not change your effective range. Energy is not the limiting factor, it is the nut behind the grip that limits the range.
As for the 70 pounds, I say go for it. I too have mine turned down below that for whitetail just for ease of pulling while up a tree and have never had problems with pentration, but if I want to take a trip out west for elk, all I have to do is turn up the limbs. Why not have the capability, even if you shoot a lighter weight at first.
Good advice from all here. I have hunted archery almost solely since 12, and would not possibly attempt a shot at an animal at over 40. Target shoots are another game and a lot of fun to attempt longer shots at the range, but I am a 25-30 in the woods, and 40 is pushing it in a field.
As for the 70 pounds, I say go for it. I too have mine turned down below that for whitetail just for ease of pulling while up a tree and have never had problems with pentration, but if I want to take a trip out west for elk, all I have to do is turn up the limbs. Why not have the capability, even if you shoot a lighter weight at first.
x2
tclear, how much does that affect tuning?
When I originally bought my mathews it was cranked all the way up (guy used the bow a year then went to a crossbow). I had a little trouble drawing on a doe straight under me. I had to draw in front of me and then point the bow down. Way too much movement. Thankfully she came in on her own and I didn't get busted.
I took an allen wrench and turned the limbs down equally. I had to fine tune my sight as I only shoot one pin, but nothing else changed at all. I have shot it this way the last two years without a problem.
I am going to buy a bow in the next few weeks, but I am not going to go deer hunting until next year. I am probably going to get a 70 lb. bow. What is the maximum distance on average to kill a deer with a 70 lb. bow.
Go to an archery shop and have them check your draw length first. Then shoot a couple bows there and find a comfortable draw weight. During hunting you'll have on more clothes plus the cold will also affect your draw to be harder to pull. I shoot 70 all the time and don't back my hunting bow off at all. Advantage being I can shoot 1 pin out to 45 yards. Dis-advantage to some is what i've said before, cold affects your ability to draw heavier weight.
So take it for what it is worth, after bow hunting for 40 years. My two cents is. Shoot a bow weight that you can draw from any position and one that the highest weight you want to shoot is close to the highest weight of the bow. And if you worried about penetration shoot arrows at the heavy end of the spine chart.
Shoot Straight,
Bigfoot[8D]
My 70 pounder tops out at 71. [;)] And NEVER crank a bow, you should always back it off 'about' a 1/4 turn [:D]
I did not say to shoot the bow with the limbs cranked down all the way. What I was trying to convey is that most bows will give you 2 to 5 pounds of draw weight above draw rating.What I did say is for best performance the bow should be shot at the upper weight of the draw for that bow. Example: 50 to 60 will perform best at 60 pounds, 60 to 70 would be 70 pounds,ect.
I have been shooting Mathews and Hoyts for years. I buy 50 to 60 pound bows and shoot them at 63 (WITHOUT) the limbs cranked all the way down.At this time I have two Mathews Drenalin's. Both are 50 to 60 pound bows. one of them will crank up to 65 and the other will crank to 64 pounds. I know my scale is correct because I check it once a week. To do this I use a 50 pound Olympic barbell weight. I have not yet seen a bow scale hold zero for any length of time. I don't know why but I have been working on bows for 20 years now and this is one thing I would recommend to anyone who has a scale of there own. Easy to do just hang the plate on the scale and turn the adjustment screw. I hope this clears up what I was trying to say.
Shoot Straight [8D]
Bigfoot
I love my Dren's, but I would have upgraded one of them to there new bow but I am still in PT after my surgery for a full tear on my left rotter cuff. Six and a half months into my recovery and it is so frustrating. Still can not lift my bow into the shooting position. It is going to be a real fire drill getting to draw on a buck. I can draw the bow just can't lift it. Anyway here's the deal, I have a deep nail pouch belted to my hip. And a Knight and Hail Steady Ready strapped to my left arm. I have the Steady ready in the pouch attached to my arm, now here comes a buck I want to shoot. I pick up my bow with my right hand and place it in my left hand that is already in the shooting position. Then hook up my release and try to get to draw. Quite the fire drill.. Hay, It beats sitting home...LOL..
I have scouted out a couple good bucks, Just need to have allot more than normal go my way to harvest them. We will see it opens here on the 1st of Oct.
As far as the Hoyts, They are a great bow also. There new one is a sizzler. With a brace height just a little shorter than the Dren. But they are way to heavy for me to even thinking about one at this point.
Well good luck Wednesday if you get out.
Shoot Straight!
Bigfoot