Any help on antiquing a shotgun

trainman115

Hi I am looking for some help on how I can antique my 1878 stagecoach gun I am not sure how to do it I wish I could have boughten a coach gun already antiqued but could not find one for sale so I bought a new blued one hoping someone can either help me or tell me someone who can do it Thanks [;)]

Riomouse911

I've seen a million guns that were inadvertantly "antiqued" through negelct and/or abuse....but I won't tell you how because they were pretty rough when brought back to life... I've never personally done one on purpose myself, but someone on here will have an answer or two to help you out!

hillbille

loan it to a friend, mine allways come back looking like crap..........

trainman115

Thanks Guys seems like no one has a clue on what I like to do I will try somewhere else but thanks anyway

bartman45

There are chemicals available from companies such as Brownells and Midway. One product is Birchwood Caseys "Plum Brown Barrel Finish".

navc130

Unfortunately, you do not define what you consider as "antiquing."
Do you want dents and scratches in it or just to change the color to "look old." I can tell you this; you can "antique" a firearm by just letting it get wet and develope surface rust, then rub it out with fine steel wool. Obviously, protect the bores. The wood wil age also by getting wet.

wpage

Leave it outside for a while...

flyingcollie

Trainman, much depends on what you want the piece to look like when you're done. In real life, "antiquing" is the result of a lot of handling and some abuse . . . if all you want is a "worn" look, very fine sandpapers, wet or dry, 600 grit up to 2400 grit will give you that effect if you scour the gun where it would most likely have been worn through use.

I don't think it's a good idea to leave a piece outside, or purposely rust it . . . look up muzzleloader brown finishes instead. Good luck !

machine gun moran

quote:Originally posted by trainman115
Thanks Guys seems like no one has a clue on what I like to do I will try somewhere else but thanks anyway


Looks like trainman took a hike after waiting less than five hours for his question to be answered. Members who work second shift didn't even have time to get home, LOL.

flyingcollie

Yeah, I guess Trainman was highballin' through, and couldn't wait for a good answer. His loss. One of the coolest things about this forum is the things you can pick up from member posts.

Forgemonkey, many thanks for the link to that book. Looks like it's solid gold if you're interested in metalwork (and I am). Speaking of that, I noted the picture you posted in the general forum of that drawbar being forged in the railroad shops . . . and your reference to working in a blacksmith shop . . . care to give some details ? I've dabbled with hand-forging, and working metal, one of my interests.

v35

Research "Browning"(not the man) for the method of antiquing old or new doubles.
Browning used to be the final factory finish, not a patina from aging.
Today's end result may differ as barrel steels have changed from twisted Damascus ribands of iron and steel or early low carbon twist steel to modern alloy harder steel barrels.
An original formula for steel barrels is : 1.5 oz spirits of wine, 1.5 oz tincture of iron, 1.5 oz corrosive sublimate, 1.5 oz sweet spirits of niter, 1 oz copper sulphate, 3/4 oz strong nitric acid, 1 qt water.
You'd have to determine today's definition of chemical names and their original concentrations i.e. molarity of the nitric acid.
the process involves repeated rusting and wire brushing in controlled temp and humidity.
Brownells and Dixie may have ready made browning solutions.