Junk, or worth the fix?

DevinBarnett

I have a 36 cal 1851 Colt replica that was given to my by a member of my family. It has the words "Patent N" on the cylinder and given my research that translates into pure junk. The action is very worn out on the gun. Sometimes the cylinder doesn't turn when the hammer is pulled back and when the hammer is at half cock, the cylinder will not rotate. The action is not tight at all. So I was wondering if this gun is even worth the fix? I'm guessing it needs its guts replaced. Like I said I have no money in the gun but I thought if I could get it fixed for about 20 or 30 bucks it would be worth it to shoot it some more.

allen griggs

If you are a little mechanically minded, you can fix the pistol yourself.
You can get the parts from these guys.

http://www.vtigunparts.com/

You probably need a hand and a bolt. You can get them delivered for $15 to $20.
Call VTI up, they are very knowledgable, and will help you get just the parts you need.

Here is the scoop on complete disassembly of the Colt, from graybeardoutdoors.com:

Dismounting Post-1850 Colt Revolvers

Basic:

1. Place unloaded revolver on half cock
2. Push Barrel Wedge to the left. It will either stop against the retaining screw or come all the way out. This varies.
3 pull barrel assembly off the frame and cylinder off the arbor.
4. Unscrew nipples for cleaning.

Complete:

1. Remove back strap section of the grip frame. Screws are on either side of the hammer and on the bottom of the grip frame assembly.
2. Loosen and/or remove the main spring;
3. Remove front of grip frame/trigger guard - three screws.
4. Remove Trigger bolt spring now visible in the bottom of the action.
5. Remove cylinder bolt and then trigger held by identical screws.
6. Remove hammer screw and then hammer and hand assembly through the bottom of the frame.
Remounting:

1. Replace hammer and hand first being careful not to compress or overstress the hand spring'
2. Replace locking bolt. It is necessary for the split "ears" on the rear of the hand to ride in front of the cam on the right side of the hammer. This is best accomplished by placing the hammer in its lowered (forward ) position. The outside "ear" presses against the inside of the frame while the active side presses against the hammer in front of the hammer cam.
3. Replace Trigger. This is easiest with the hammer pulled back.
4. Replace trigger /bolt spring being sure that the long "finger" is on the step on the front of the trigger. Some springs appear to be too short to replace. In this case, index the long "finger"/leaf of the spring against the step on the trigger and press down so that it will stretch out and allow replacement of the screw.
5. Replace front porton of grip frame and the main spring. It is often best to leave some slack in the screws-including the mainspring screw- until everything is in position. then tighten all screws.
6. Replace grip and back strap of grip frame. This may require loosening the screws of the front portion of the grip frame just to get all the screws lined up.

In principal: Avoid overtightening the screws and the nipples. It's easier to tighten them often than to watch one crumble before your eyes because it's frozen in place.

Frequently, the Italian assembler will set at least one of the screws in place under massive impact. Your Job- have the best fitting screwdriver possible on hand ;and, Figure out which screw it is.



http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=137102

It really is not too hard to take these things apart, I do it all the time and I am no gunsmith.
Before you do, make sure that the barrel is not all rusted out.
If the barrel is ok, what have you got to lose?

DevinBarnett

Thanks. I appreciate the info.

allen griggs

You are welcome. If you go over to the VTI site and look up the pistol you have, you will see a very good exploded diagram of the pistol, with all the parts labeled. You could print out this diagram it would be very helpful.
VTI can tell you who the manufacturer is.