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Length of Barrel and effective powder charge
scubabobf
Member Posts: 392 ✭✭✭
Hi;
I have a 54 caliber TC Renagade and the recommended load is 90 grains of FFG or Pyrodex with a Maxi Ball. The barrel is 28 inches and I hear the discussion of using 150 gr for maximum power. This seems too much for the barrel length and a certain amount of wasted powder. Is there a rule of thumb for the max charge in a 28 inch 54 cal or even 50 cal? Thank you.
I have a 54 caliber TC Renagade and the recommended load is 90 grains of FFG or Pyrodex with a Maxi Ball. The barrel is 28 inches and I hear the discussion of using 150 gr for maximum power. This seems too much for the barrel length and a certain amount of wasted powder. Is there a rule of thumb for the max charge in a 28 inch 54 cal or even 50 cal? Thank you.
Comments
I doubt that your rifle would even burn 150 grains. With that much powder, accuracy would probably suffer.
Furthermore, when you use a lot of powder with a big slug, you start to get a lot of recoil. You will feel the recoil from a .54 Maxi Ball and 90 gr of powder. If you got up to 110 or 120 grains the recoil would be quite stout.
In fact, the rule of thumb is, that the bigger the slug, the SMALLER the powder charge. I know that seems backwards, but it is true.
For instance, with these Civil War rifles that shoot a .58 slug, the recommended powder charge is no more than 70 grains.
Ninety grains of powder will be plenty for you.
In fact, you should try 80 grains, 90 grains, and 100 grains, and see which load is most accurate.
I have killed several deer with 80 grains and the patched .50 round ball. They didn't make 50 yards on a lung shot, complete pass through. You would have a lot more energy with that big .54 Maxi Ball and 80 grains than I did with that .50 round ball.
To add some fuel to the fire, 150 loads partly came about because:
1. Pellets/sticks introduced for convience, speed, and packaging.
Do the math. You either use a 50, 100, or 150 grain load. 99.99% of pellets sold are 50 grain charges.
2. 30 grain pellets are available, but seldom used. Hardly anyone, even 'sports writers'(Hunted w/some=drink better than they shoot) have done testing w/them and the various combinations, much less write about them. Do the math on: 30+30, 30+30+30, 50+30, 50+30+30, 50+30+30+30. 50+50, 50+50+50. You really can test for a more accurate load, and efficiency but it takes time, time, and cleaning.
3. More is better. NOT! I'll let that rest.
There is a gas expansion ratio vs. bore that attains a maximum efficiency. Once the burn speed rate & gas production threshold has been reached, powder is blown/burned outside the muzzle. Waste!!!
Accuracy drops almost always. Internal harmonics increased.
As Allen also mentioned recoil is increased. Magnum loads usually result in a change of shooters technique. How the firearm is held, trigger "squeeze', eye/target lock, flinch...all usually unconcious to the shooter.
Oh, don't forget that with charge weight changes....even bullet performance can be affected. So that means buy more types/grain weights of bullets to test. Most shooters don't want to do that, and those of us who do....have gone back to loose powder. We don't believe everything we read.
All, feel free to correct me if I am talking out of my rear.
Always error on the side of safety.
Personally don't think it would be a problem....but it could be!
IF there is a slight blockage in the boore from water/snow, crud build up, dirt, etc., pressure will rise too rapidly the charge will not be burned/blown out the muzzle, and a "back charge pressure" will exit at the lowest/weakest pressure point. The nipple!!!!
The hammer has spring pressure it to hold the cap on. If the spring is weak, hammer face tilted-worn, and parts are worn, back pressure may lift it off...just enough to have a buring powder charge escape.
AS Handgunner52 pointed out, YOUR ear, eye, and hand are where in relation to the nipple??????? It only takes once.
Besides Allen has 'zeroed in' on the topic of accuracy/efficency.
They have my vote.