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What size .45 round balls for a T/C Patriot?
Oregunner
Member Posts: 129 ✭✭✭
I bought a T/C Patriot .45 caliber pistol last week in the GB auction. I don't have it in hand yet so I can't check the bore. I have an order going in for some assorted stuff & the outfit I'm ordering from has .433", .440", .445", .451", .454" & .457" round balls. Can anyone tell me which size is appropriate for the Patriot?
Thanks in advance,
EDIT: Never mind, I found the info on the T/C site. Thanks anyway.
Thanks in advance,
EDIT: Never mind, I found the info on the T/C site. Thanks anyway.
Comments
Had I realized round balls were so cheap before I ordered molds I probably would have just bought three hundred balls for $30 & had enough to last me the rest of my life. Oh well, now I'll feel obligated to shoot it more. Since it was advertised as a target pistol I'm really hoping it shoots well. So far all I know for sure is I like the sight picture & the trigger.
T/C says to charge it with between 20 & 35 grains of 3F. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good target load in this pistol?
I got some of that foaming blackpowder bore cleaner. I really hope it makes cleaning the Patriot & my old T/C Hawken a little less tedious.
Thanks folks
I have since found a proper adjustable powder measure & some .018" pre-lubed T/C factory patches & some T/C Bore Butter to try with the .015" patches. The way it was shooting it appeared to me that the ball wasn't getting enough spin to stabilize, especially with the heavier loads.
The gun appeared to be unfired when I got it. I could see all the way to the breech plug & it looked new & unfired. I have had several people tell me that a new ML bore may need 75 to 100 rounds through it before it will start to group to it's potential. I hope that's right. First chance I get I'm going to try it with the thicker patches & the thinner ones with different lube & see what happens. Maybe after 100 rounds it will start to come around.
Any further suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks much!
Have the bore slugged first to get the dimensions of the lands and grooves. In my 45 cal Cherokee, I use a .451 and a .007 patch. The ball actually engraves the rifling, and the patch is used for a seal only. The .440, and .015 combination will spin the patch around the ball in a 1:48 twist. The .451, and .007 turned out to be a tack driver.
Your reply appeared while I was replying to the previous one. I don't know how to slug the bore without pulling the breech plug & I don't have a way to do that at this point. I guess I'll try the thicker patches first & see what happens.
Thanks!
I was contemplating that T/C used the same 45 caliber barrel stock for the rifles as it did the pistol. That is why the suggestion with the .451 ball and .007 patch. I have used that, and the bullet actually bites the rifling.
To slug the bore, you will need a ball puller, and a 50 or 54 caliber pure lead ball, a wooden 3/8 dowel@ 12 inches long, and some good lube like the bore butter.
Have the lubed barrel firmly in a padded vise, and put the ball on the muzzle crown, take the dowel and a mallot and drive it into the bore. Use your ball puller on the ramrod screw or compressed air in the nipple to get the ball back out. If using compressed air, discharge the ball into a pile of towels to keep from damaging the rifling you need to measure.
My brother in law gave me twelve or fifteen pounds of pure lead the other day so I cast up 430 .440" roundballs. I could have made more but I didn't want to chance getting into the dirty stuff. Those should last quite a while. I really like the Lee aluminum molds. I already had four or five sets of Lee molds & these .440" double cavity blocks are sweet to work with. I cleaned 'em & used a little Drop Out on 'em & after the first half dozen or so they were nearly all good balls. It never took more than a light tap to get 'em out either. My calipers say they're between .4395 & .441. Most are .440. That should be close enough. I suppose I could cull for perfect size, but I'm going to try them first. I think I have everything I need to start putting more precise rounds through it tomorrow. Hopefully it will begin to group for me. If it's not a little warmer than it was today I might pass. Brrr.
http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2001689091276190885
This time it was a bit harder to load but what a difference in group size! I shot a few rounds through it, swabbed out the bore, fired one more & then shot this group. From the 4-5 inch groups I was getting before it's now shooting just over an inch @ 25 yards! This sucker will shoot if I load it right!
This is my first try at a picture on here so I hope it works.
Btw, Thanks for explaining why they quit making Patriots. That does make sense. Do you have any idea how much they sold for new?
Thompson officially ended production in 1987 on the Patriot and the last retail price was $ 235.00 but you could buy them for around $199.00
I put the calipers on the patches I picked up the other day. The ones that are supposed to be .015 are closer to .017 & the ones that are supposed to be .018 are closer to .016. The .015's (really .017) are white & unlubed. I was using them with Hoppes ##9-Plus for patch lube the first time out. Shot like sour owl badoogie. The pillow ticking ones it likes so much (that are supposed to be .018) are actually .016. They're harder to load, but that could be because the prelubed ticking was very cold & stiff. The ticking is much stiffer regardless, as well as stronger. Of the two patches I picked up, the ticking could probably be used again (not that I would). It was slightly discolored but otherwise good as new from all appearances. The white one that was lubed with #9-Plus is a little frayed around the edges. These are both T/C patches. I measured new patches as well & got the same results. In any case it likes ticking, I'll feed it ticking. I bought another package tonight. Next time I heat up my shop I'll measure some from the new package. I'm curious to see if they're the same. The ones I used last time was the last package off the rack when I bought 'em. They said they were going to send in a new order so the ones I got tonight were from a new batch. I also looked at the price when I got home. From now on I'll buy my patches at the yard goods store! Eight cents apiece for a little circle of pillowcase with some slickum on it? Yeoowwie!
Have fun at the next rendezvous!
http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2003467970276626482
Here is the very next target I shot, only this time with the white cotton patch, same Bore Butter lube-
http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2003461163547028101
I put one of the patches on the target when I scanned it. It is semi-burned through in the center with a very threadbare ring around the ball. The ticking patches still look usable. I tried your 27 grain load with the ticking & the group looked a lot like the white cotton patch load. Oh yeah, I tried to measure the distance from the breech plug to the beginning of the rifling & it turns out there is barely enough room to get the rim of a .357 case in it so it's more of a shallow ring than a chamber.
I hope these pix work.
I'll try again.
Btw, since the first good three shot group was a little left, this time I moved the rear sight an eighth of a turn right. Apparently that was about right.
That patch in the picture is actually *shot* (har! sorry, I couldn't help it). Hard to tell in that picture but if I hold it up to the light I can see right through it in the middle. It's really threadbare. All the fuzz is gone between the fibers & it looks slightly scorched in the center. Where the patch met the rifling it's actually cut in spots. I think the material is just too flimsy. I didn't load it quite the same for the 'white patch' load as I did first time out when it shot so poorly. This time I used Bore Butter & it did much better than the first time (3" group compared to 5 or 6" +/- the first time), although still not anywhere near as good as with the ticking/Bore Butter. The first time I lubed the patches with Hoppes#9Plus (VERY old bottle, it's actually glass). Some of those patches were shredded around the edges.
The white patches are marked .015" but they measure .016"-.017". With Bore Butter they slide in there slick as you please. Don't shoot worth a hoot but they're easy to load. The ticking patches are marked .018" but they're closer to .016". Still, they're quite a bit harder to start than the white ones. They're much stiffer & a *lot* tougher. Every one I've found looked like it could be used again. I have to thump the short starter a good lick to get it in there but that's ok.
Since it is rather hard to load with the factory ramrod I made a set of ramrods for loading. They're made of fiberglass & have a 4" piece of 1" dowel for a T handle & a .357 magnum case on the other end. (Of course) I made them the night before I read that fiberglass is tough on the rifling so I wrapped 'em with black tape. So far they're fine. I have one that is long enough to take the ball from where the short starter leaves it a few inches down to about 3" from the bottom. Then I use the longer one to seat the ball. They both fit in the rack I use for loading so they're always handy. I'll have to take a picture of that gun carry/loading rack. Rube Goldberg would be proud to see it but it works pretty good.
I'm interested in hearing what your gunsmith has to say. I hope you can get pictures. These are interesting pistols. I am more impressed with the accuracy all the time. This gun will shoot right with my custom .45LC Contender barrel. At least at 25 yards.