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broken hand spring Navy 1851
theprofessor
Member Posts: 37 ✭✭
I have a broken hand spring assembly ( the spring steel cracked and no tention on cylinder rotation.) any tricks in disassembly or putting parts back in the guts of pistol. newbie to bp I am fairly handy with fixin' stuff so trying to avoid high cost of gunsmith. replacement OEM part has been ordered from Mfg'r. Now all I need is good instruction, tips, advise. thanks
Comments
They should have all the parts you need, plus the schematics are there for the toys!
I have replaced two hands and one main spring, and a bolt, on two guns, so, these spring WILL break.
from go2gbo.com
Dismounting Post-1850 Colt Revolvers
Basic:
1. Place unloaded revolver on half cock
2. Push Barrel Wedge to the left. It will either stop against the retaining screw or come all the way out. This varies.
3 pull barrel assembly off the frame and cylinder off the arbor.
4. Unscrew nipples for cleaning.
Complete:
1. Remove back strap section of the grip frame. Screws are on either side of the hammer and on the bottom of the grip frame assembly.
2. Loosen and/or remove the main spring;
3. Remove front of grip frame/trigger guard - three screws.
4. Remove Trigger bolt spring now visible in the bottom of the action.
5. Remove cylinder bolt and then trigger held by identical screws.
6. Remove hammer screw and then hammer and hand assembly through the bottom of the frame.
Remounting:
1. Replace hammer and hand first being careful not to compress or overstress the hand spring'
2. Replace locking bolt. It is necessary for the split "ears" on the rear of the hand to ride in front of the cam on the right side of the hammer. This is best accomplished by placing the hammer in its lowered (forward ) position. The outside "ear" presses against the inside of the frame while the active side presses against the hammer in front of the hammer cam.
3. Replace Trigger. This is easiest with the hammer pulled back.
4. Replace trigger /bolt spring being sure that the long "finger" is on the step on the front of the trigger. Some springs appear to be too short to replace. In this case, index the long "finger"/leaf of the spring against the step on the trigger and press down so that it will stretch out and allow replacement of the screw.
5. Replace front porton of grip frame and the main spring. It is often best to leave some slack in the screws-including the mainspring screw- until everything is in position. then tighten all screws.
6. Replace grip and back strap of grip frame. This may require loosening the screws of the front portion of the grip frame just to get all the screws lined up.
In principal: Avoid overtightening the screws and the nipples. It's easier to tighten them often than to watch one crumble before your eyes because it's frozen in place.
Frequently, the Italian assembler will set at least one of the screws in place under massive impact. Your Job- have the best fitting screwdriver possible on hand ;and, Figure out which screw it is.
Attached Thumbnails:
The above is a replacement for the withdrawn posting mec had here. It is a different website, but the information is the same, and includes the thumbnailks referred to above. Other than for the value of the thumbnails, I would not normally lead anyone off to a different website, if you look over there, be sure to come back.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=137102
Flint
Damn I would like to spend a week checking out the historical sites in that area.
We had a thread on general discussion a week ago where a guy in the Richmond area blew himself up trying to defuse a Civil War cannon ball.
I thought of the fantastic artillery duel that took place across the Rapahannock River there during the battle of Fredricksburg.
I wonder how many hundreds of unexploded shells are in the ground, and in the river there in Fredricksburg.
These guns are pretty easy to work on and the ability to improvise helps.
The main spring, the one that makes the hammer drop, broke on my Pietta Colt.
I got a new spring and it was too stiff! Made it hard to pull that hammer back.
I used what any Civil War gunsmith would use, a belt sander.
I held the spring in my hand. It is a flat spring about 1/4 inch wide, maybe wider, 1/10 inch thick, and 3 inches long.
So I figured if it was a little skinnier, it would be less strong.
I turned the belt sander upside down and set it on the bench and locked it, running. I held the spring in my hand and put it to the sander, boy the sparks flew from that hardened steel. The key was to hold it in you hand, that way you wouldn't let it get too hot.
I would grind it for 3 seconds and let it set for 30 seconds.
I took off about 10 percent of the width of that spring and installed it, it was perfect.
The new spring has held up fine for 2 years.