remington cleaning

hillbille

just got my first chance to shoot my newly aquired peitts remmy, only got off 3 cylinders and the gun tightened up real bad, had to pound the cylinder in out to check to see if cap had fallen and jammed somewhere,trigger was real hard to full cock. I was shooting 30-35 grains pb pregreased wads and round balls. The army colt I used to have I could shoot all day without trouble, is this a common problem with the 1858 or could it just be tight from being new? with a quick wipe down with a rag I could have maybe gotten one more offdidn't want to chance it though.

Timothy

Every gun is different but with lubed wads you should be able to shoot longer than that. Still thats not terrible, one nice thing about the remington is you can quickly remove and relube the cylinder as neccessary. Good luck

R D Henry

I have 4 Piettas...2 in 36cal, and 2 in 44cal.

The first thing I learned about them was to keep the cylinder pin lubed. By doing that, I've shot them all day long at CAS matches.

Even brand new right outta the box, they shot quite well just by keeping the pin lubed after each cylinder full is shot.

hillbille

just back from the range again, accuracy is excellent, I could hit a golf ball starting at 30-35 yards and again when it stops out to about 50 at least twice a cylinder, sometimes 3-4 times only problem was pistol getting tight again, pulled the pin and cleaned it between cylinders but still got so tight after 6-7 cylinders i quit because the pin was so tight it would'nt come out. I'm hoping it is just a bent pin as it was bowed up towards the barrell. I've got a new pin on order hope that cures the tightness.

Timothy

The problem with the remington is there is no gas ring protruding from the front of the cylinder like the colt. So when fired the fouling blows down and in between the base pin and cylinder quickly siezing the gun up. This has always been a problem with the design. The colt rather than a base pin has a large arbor with lube groves and an extension on the face of the cylinder that stops fouling from entering the arbor/cylinder as easily. Replacing the pin on your remington probably wont help it shoot longer. Instead I'd get used to the practice of relubing every other cylinder. If you really want to keep it running you can use lubed wads with fff powder plus globs of crisco on top of the balls. This should keep it running but again there are no gaurantees because of the design. Remember there were no tactical reloads in the old west, rather the user simply drew a second revolver if neccessary, hence the civil war guerillas carrying up to 4 guns on their person. As lengthy of process as reloading a C&B gun is, its little further trouble to reluble the basepin/cylinder while at it, which the remington design allows easier than others. Good luck

hillbille

got my new pin today that wasn't the problem, the frame is bent. with the new pin in it is just a hair from dropping in the hole in the back frame under the hammer. I shaved a little off the old pin to get it to drop in free, also you can see towards the front of the pin where the cylinder is dragging hit it a few shots with soft file. It now drops in and out pretty freely need to get back to range to see if it hurt accuracy, otherwiseme or guy who runs the shop are out of ideas. don't feel it would help to reame either side of frame out without hurting cylinder allinement and accuracy.

hillbille

just got back from the range, my mistake was to not check ammo only had 14 balls, shot all and cylinder was stil loose, pin was still tight to get out but managable so I think shaving the pin did the trick. my eye was acting up, so my accuracy was off a little but I think it was more me than the pistol. thank you all for the interest and the info.also forgot the water bottle I think with a few drops of water the in would have come out easier.