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Guns for Cowboy Action Shooting
dreher
Member Posts: 8,788 ✭✭✭✭
I'm thinking of trying Cowboy action Shooting. Thoughts and advice about which revolver (I prefer Rugers) and pros and cons of the different calibers would be welcome. I don't want to use black powder. I will be loading my own ammo. Can a Blackhawk be used if it has adjustable sights? I hope so as that would mean I'm already in business. Any words of wisdom before I start down this path? DREHER
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Seriously, I started with a .357 Blackhawk shooting modern class. Then when I found out you needed two six guns a rifle and a shotgun I added a clone SAA in .357, a Rossi model 92 .357 carbine and a Stevens SxS coach gun in 16ga. Then I replaced the Blackhawk with a real 2nd gen Colt SAA .357. By the time I gave it up I was shooting .45LC Stainless Steel Ruger Vaqueros. Nice pistols but heavy. Whatever you decide to buy, make sure they're tuned. It's no fun shooting with un tuned guns. Also, you might want to check out the SASS web site. http://www.sassnet.com/About-What-is-SASS-001A.php The Single Action Shooting Society.
Most of all, have fun dressing up and creating your Cowboy personna.
unless you shoot an age-based catagory,the adj. sights will limit you to shooting in Modern catagory.
A lever carbine in the same caliber using the same load makes life easier,but not mandatory.Marlins can be tuned up reallly nice.ON the higher end of the pay scale,Winchester '73 clones can run very fast as well when tuned up.
shotgun: a lot of folks like the Model 97 pump,a bunch shoot doubles barrels. A few shoot the Win. lever actions or their clones.
The SASS site has the Shooters' Handbook online,and will explain what guns can be used in which catagories.
The Shooters' handbook is online at the main SASS website.
www.sassnet.com
First let me say I've been buying guns for many years and have quite a selection to choose from when I shoot at a match. I started with a pair of Ruger Vaquero's in 45 Colt caliber, then changed to the same gun in 38 Special/357 caliber. Less recoil means you can shoot faster because of less recoil, and speed is the name of the game for most shooters. For a rifle, to start I bought a Marlin 1894 in 357 caliber at the local Big 5 store for $369, slicked it up (easy for you to do)and had really good luck with it. I soon bought a used '73 in 45 Colt from a Cowboy here on Gunbroker. It had been slicked up and well used, but it shoots like a dream, and looks like an old original Winchester. Next I bought a 66 in 38 Special, then a '73 (Uberti) in 357/38. I shoot the last one i bought because it has a short stroke kit and is very smooth & fast. For shotguns I have 97's, and both a SXS with exposed hammers and one without hammers, and a lever 1887. I use a Norinco 97 for matchs. Stay away from Remington Spartan SXS's unless you know, or are married to a good gunsmith. Most of these other guns (revolvers, rifles & 97 shotguns) are easy to work on yourself. I've put spring kits in almost all of my Ruger single actions, and it is easy to use a bit of jeweler's rouge on a Dremel tool to polish the moving parts (I said polish, not grind). For a look at some of my single action Rugers, click the following link. If new shooters have questions I,d be glad to help you out email me at klamath.cowboys at hotmail dot com.
http://s248.photobucket.com/albums/gg176/Nite_Ryder/?action=view¤t=RugerSA.jpg
I've been shooting for a couple years and what I have learned, I'd be glad to pass on for what ever it's worth.
First let me say I've been buying guns for many years and have quite a selection to choose from when I shoot at a match. I started with a pair of Ruger Vaquero's in 45 Colt caliber, then changed to the same gun in 38 Special/357 caliber. Less recoil means you can shoot faster because of less recoil, and speed is the name of the game for most shooters. For a rifle, to start I bought a Marlin 1894 in 357 caliber at the local Big 5 store for $369, slicked it up (easy for you to do)and had really good luck with it. I soon bought a used '73 in 45 Colt from a Cowboy here on Gunbroker. It had been slicked up and well used, but it shoots like a dream, and looks like an old original Winchester. Next I bought a 66 in 38 Special, then a '73 (Uberti) in 357/38. I shoot the last one i bought because it has a short stroke kit and is very smooth & fast. For shotguns I have 97's, and both a SXS with exposed hammers and one without hammers, and a lever 1887. I use a Norinco 97 for matchs. Stay away from Remington Spartan SXS's unless you know, or are married to a good gunsmith. Most of these other guns (revolvers, rifles & 97 shotguns) are easy to work on yourself. I've put spring kits in almost all of my Ruger single actions, and it is easy to use a bit of jeweler's rouge on a Dremel tool to polish the moving parts (I said polish, not grind). For a look at some of my single action Rugers, click the following link. If new shooters have questions I,d be glad to help you out email me at klamath.cowboys at hotmail dot com.
http://s248.photobucket.com/albums/gg176/Nite_Ryder/?action=view?t=RugerSA.jpg
Forgot to add, don't buy a '92 or '94 rifle for CAS, they are almost impossible to "slick up" and make fast. The best rifle is a '73, the most economical is a Marlin 1894 (at about $399 new).