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Problem loading a .36 caliber revolver

rljonesrljones Member Posts: 34 ✭✭
My Lyman mold is dropping a .375 ball (I miked it) which is a little to small for my Navy .36 caliber revolver cylinder. Can I use a cloth patch to provide a good seal? I sealed one chamber without a powder charge and it seemed to seal just fine. I don't know why the cylinder chambers are so large on this model (1972 mfg.), but they are. The ball is a tight fit in the barrel, so if this is a safe practice, I would like to use the lead balls I have already cast. Thanks

Comments

  • allen griggsallen griggs Member Posts: 34,336 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Not gonna work.
    You need to get the right-sized ball, one that is larger than the cylinder so that it will not drop into the cylinder.
    You need to shave off a thin lead "donut" when you ram the ball into the cylinder.
    No patches for the cap and ball revolver.
  • ken44-40ken44-40 Member Posts: 201 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    It kinda depends on who made it. A lot of .36 cal revolvers made, even as far back as 1970, need a .378 to .380 ball to work properly.
  • 44caliberkid44caliberkid Member Posts: 925 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Most Navy Arms 1851 Navies were made by Uberti, which tend to have a larger chamber mouth requiring a .380 ball for cutting a good ring and sealing when seated. Piettas and ASM's will usually work fine with .375's. The manufacturing tolerances of Italian repros aren't the greatest, and chamber mouth diameter will vary, so choosing a ball that fits your particular revolver is essential.
  • rljonesrljones Member Posts: 34 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for the replies. I have ordered a Lee .380 roundball mold from Midsouth.
  • navc130navc130 Member Posts: 1,017 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You might try squeezing the .375 balls in a vise to see if that expands them enough to seal propersly.
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