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Rem 700 Ml question

toad67toad67 Member Posts: 13,009 ✭✭✭✭
edited October 2010 in Black Powder and Cowboy Action Shooting
Awhile back I purchased a 50 cal Rem 700 ML from a seller here on GB. When I received it it was as described with all of the parts. It came set up with a 209 system but I live in Oregon and that is not legal here. I can only use open ignition percussion systems. So I removed the 209 system and installed the # 11 system that was included. Once it was installed if there was a cap on the nipple and the muzzle was raised the nipple would fall off the end of the nipple. I also had the problem of the caps not going off when I pulled the trigger. A friend told me to try #10 caps and they seem to work fine.
So I recently purchased a new breach plug and factory nipple from Brownells and installed them. The #11 caps will now stay on when the muzzle is raised but they will only go off less than 1/2 the time on the first trigger pull, but they will almost always fire if I recock the bolt and fire it again.
So I would like some input as to what you guys think might be the problem. Should I just stick with #10 caps or do you think that there could be something wrong with the firing pin spring since it had the 209 system in it for so long. Thanks.

Todd
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Comments

  • Chief ShawayChief Shaway Member, Moderator Posts: 6,268 ******
    edited November -1
    Sounds like on your new nipple the caps are not being seated all the way every time. On the second hit, they are seated and fired.
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  • victorj19victorj19 Member Posts: 3,642 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Here in MI I switched from the cap to the 209 Primer. Before I did I started having problems withthe caps not firing. Then I diassembled the bolt. The insides were getting a bit rusty. I cleaned it out and with a bit of lube I was in business. In 2002, an acquaintance at work complained he misses a big buck and no matter how many time he cocked the bolt his cap wouldn't fire. He brought to work the next day and I brought in a bolt disaasembly tool. When I pulled it apart he was shocked to learn the bolt had rusted up tight.
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  • festusfestus Member Posts: 1,011 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have owned one since they came out, and like the others said, most likely need to clean the bolt. I use the # 10 caps and the only time it failed to go off, the bolt was dirty. Now I clean the bolt every time I clean the gun and all is well. No tool needed to clean it just hang the (tooth)? on the bottom of the bolt on the edge of something and push down and put a penny in the slot, then unscrew it. Clean then screw it together, line the nipple up with notch, you will see what i'm talking about when you screw it together, push down like you did to take apart and pull penny out,it will probally fall out when you push down.
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  • toad67toad67 Member Posts: 13,009 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for the advice, it sounds as if that is the problem. As per Chief's comment I have pushed the caps on hard enough to create a red indentation in my thumb. Since it came with the 209 system in it and if it was left cocked for some time would that weaken the firing pin (cap, plunger,??) spring? Does anyone know if it takes a different firing spring than a standard 700? Thanks again.

    Todd
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  • festusfestus Member Posts: 1,011 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I doubt the spring is weak. I use the RWS # 10 caps and they fit very tight. I would clean it and try it with a few caps without loading the gun and see if it will fire every time.
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  • bambihunterbambihunter Member Posts: 10,765 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Mine was stainless and I had no rust issues but still wouldn't fire but about 1 out of 3. I sent it in to Remington 3 different times and they kept saying nothing was wrong with it. I finally bought a 209 conversion kit out of Canada and the spring was MUCH stronger than the factory one and I haven't had an issue since.

    I would sell you my #11 kit but I expect you'd have the same trouble. I have a .54 also and it is of later manufacture date and it came with the 3 way nipple system and it has worked flawless since day one.
    Fanatic collector of the 10mm auto.
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  • Wolf.Wolf. Member Posts: 2,223 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I agree with the slightly longer spring suggestion. If you can't find a spring directly for your application, You can usually find a good assortment of springs at Brownells. You can measure the spring length and outside diameter (OD) with a set of calipers or mic. and just buy a "strong" spring slightly longer, of the same OD and with the right number of coils per inch. They can be cut down, but it's best to get one of the exact length you are looing for.

    ALSO......as far as seating the nipple.......it is a tiny bit tricky, but you can mount the nipple in a drill press motor and barely touch it with some 400-500 grit paper and test the nipple fit. If you don't wish to take the chance of screwing it up and making the nipple too small for the cap instead of too large, then get a hardwood dowell of approximatley 5/16 or 3/8 (or whatever is the right size for your application, saw off the end at approx 45 degree angle and seat your caps with that. Beats the thumb method and should not set off your caps. I use one I carved out of a small piece of oak and buffed up real well on my Navy Colt reproduction revolvers.
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