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Mechanics' Question..(bushings)
givette
Member Posts: 10,886 ✭
I'm about to order a set of poly bushings for my car. They don't come with the outer steel 'press fit' shell. So..
When I remove the old bushings, the shells will still be in place inside the lower control arms, so I want to glue the poly bushings inside the shells (the OEM bushings were permanently attached to the shells).
The 'squeak' associated with poly bushings, I believe, is due to the installer not fixing (gluing) the insulator inside the shell, much the same way that the OEM bushings were 'fixed' inside the shells.
Now, my question: After de-burring, and general 'finishing' of the I/D of the shells, what glue would be appropriate? What say ye?? Thanks, Joe
When I remove the old bushings, the shells will still be in place inside the lower control arms, so I want to glue the poly bushings inside the shells (the OEM bushings were permanently attached to the shells).
The 'squeak' associated with poly bushings, I believe, is due to the installer not fixing (gluing) the insulator inside the shell, much the same way that the OEM bushings were 'fixed' inside the shells.
Now, my question: After de-burring, and general 'finishing' of the I/D of the shells, what glue would be appropriate? What say ye?? Thanks, Joe
Comments
3M 5200
Thanks, Fish! Can I get it at the local hardware store? Do I look for a 'trade name' or sumsuch? Or just the numbers you've said..thanks again! Joe
(Is the 3M 5200 an epoxy?)
EDIT
I looked it up! Neat stuff! After the install, I'll have to let the bushings 'set' for a few days, though (curing time). Although I don't mind! Best again, Joe
Description
Contact cement features a neoprene rubber formula that creates an ultra-flexible bond. Sets instantly & fully cures in one hour. Water-resistance makes it ideal for indoor / outdoor applications. Dries clear. Adhesive Type: Contact Cement; Color Dried: Clear; Color on Application: Clear.
Product Details
Manufacturer Elmers [ view manufacturer ]
Item Number EPIE1014
Mfg Part Number E1014
List Price
Margaret Thatcher
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies and statistics."
Mark Twain
Make sure to load the suspension before it's set in place and tightened
Yesiree!
Best, and thanks! Joe
What kind of car?.All the poly bushings for gm come with the shell. Usually rubber stock bushings are molded to the shells so the shells cannot be re-used. The new poly suspention bushings come with the shell and bushing and the center bolt tube is what moves so you must lube those with silicone grease before installing or they will squeak badly.
Please steer me to the manufacturer that has poly bushings with the shells installed. All I've seen for my car (Toyota MR2) are the bare poly type, with the steel inserts. Thanks, Joe
quote:Originally posted by john w
What kind of car?.All the poly bushings for gm come with the shell. Usually rubber stock bushings are molded to the shells so the shells cannot be re-used. The new poly suspention bushings come with the shell and bushing and the center bolt tube is what moves so you must lube those with silicone grease before installing or they will squeak badly.
Please steer me to the manufacturer that has poly bushings with the shells installed. All I've seen for my car (Toyota MR2) are the bare poly type, with the steel inserts. Thanks, Joe
I was speaking of the 70's A body type cars as they had the shells on the poly bushings. You did not state what type of car at first. If your new bushings have the steel bolt sleeve they do need to be lubed as when you tighten the bolts the tube locks to the control arm and the bushing swivels on the tube and must be lubed with silicone grease. A lot of guys also reoplace their rubber bushings that are bonded to the shell and those MUST be tightened with the load weight of the car on them or they will be damaged as it is the rubber that flexes in the bushing when the suspention goes up and down and if tightened with the suspention hanging they will rip the bond on the steel shell when driven
Now, my question: After de-burring, and general 'finishing' of the I/D of the shells, what glue would be appropriate? What say ye?? Thanks, Joe
You will not glue Polyurethane bushings to metal and make it stick nor keep it from squeaking.
The supplier whom you got the bushings from should have also gave you the correct grease for the bushings you bought. If they did not include the correct grease. They should have at least gave you the name of the type that should be used. Using the wrong grease on polyurethane bushing can destroy them.
http://www.polybushings.com/pages/bushinglube.html
http://www.tooltopia.com/3m-automotive-08946.aspx?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=MMM08946&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u
Reason for asking: the OEM bushings were permanently fixed to the outer shell. They were not designed to move where they contacted the shell.
Why can't I get the new bushings to act like the OEM bushings? Glue them like the OEM bushings are, so they don't move? (Again, lubeing the inner tube area thouroughly). Joe
EDIT
Also, I plan to 'clean up' the I.D. of the shells by using a brake cylinder hone tool, just enough to 'de-glaze' with a cross hatch pattern, FWIW. Joe
So, let me get this right. Instead of lubeing only the inner bushing (where the steel insert is), you say I should also lube the outer bushing, where it comes in contact with the shell? Have I got that right?
Reason for asking: the OEM bushings were permanently fixed to the outer shell. They were not designed to move where they contacted the shell.
Why can't I get the new bushings to act like the OEM bushings? Glue them like the OEM bushings are, so they don't move? (Again, lubeing the inner tube area thouroughly). Joe
EDIT
Also, I plan to 'clean up' the I.D. of the shells by using a brake cylinder hone tool, just enough to 'de-glaze' with a cross hatch pattern, FWIW. Joe
Sure you could do that with the proper glue. As long as the tube that the bolt goes thru swivels inside the bushing you lube that with the silicone grease and when you tighten the bolt it locks the tube to the control arm and the tube moves inside the bushing with the silicone grease as lube. A lot of guys swirl grind the bolt tube on the outer surface where it contacts the polyurathane so it holds more silicone grease in the swirl ground areas.
Do some searching as maybe someone makes the bushings with the shell on them but that is a lot of work pressing them in and out if they are even removable to begin with.
No amount of glue nor even Billy Mase's nose snort special will bond poly to metal and make it stay. They are a little things called heat, vibration and torque that come into play. If the glue is not soft enough to give and yet hold. You are wasting your time using it on a bushing for a car.
Butch
Is this a street car? If it is, what do you accomplish beside noise?
Butch
It's a Toyota MR2. When set up correctly (and that's stock setup), it corners like a railroad flatcar.
Needs work. While I have it (the suspension) torn down, I wish to upgrade from rubber to urethane. Now you have the complete story of Givette and his car!
I have 2 Grandsons with MR2s. One is a turbo and the other isn't. They corner very well without plastic bushings.
Butch
So, to my thinking, if I have the darn things dismounted from the front end, prepped and ready to take new suspension components, why replace the needed bushings with OEM rubber?
That's where I'm at at this juncture. Best, Joe