sound suppressors (attn: MarkC)
mohawk600
Member Posts: 5,526 ✭✭✭✭
I have finally decided to step into this realm and thought I would ask some opinions and suggestions from you guys here.
I would like a multi -caliber can for use on .300 BLK and 5.56. and a dedicated .22 caliber can for use with .22 Winmag and below.
Is there a can out there that can go from .30 cal to 5.56 without loss of performance?
Which .22 cal can do you guys think is the best for value?
Suggestions on brands and specific units appreciated........also information resources.
There is actually a Silencer Shop in the strip mall across the street from my apartment complex and that is probably where I will go since they are basically a "one stop shop" for the whole process. Just thought I would solicit some ideas here before I go there and get the sales-man's pitch.
Comments
Because the .30 caliber tube will be larger in length and diameter, the .30 will have a larger volume and in many cases will be as quiet, or quieter than the .223 can.
The tradeoff is, as I said, is size and weight. All three suppressors are from Yankee Hill and are (Top to bottom) a .30, a standard .223 and a super shorty .223 (just enough sound reduction to take the edge off of a SBR). As you can see, there is a big difference in size between the calibers. Many people don't want to lug around more extra weight or length on their rifles than is absolutely needed, but even more people don't want to pay for and register more suppressors than are absolutely needed!
Most of your money will be spent on the materials used to manufacture the tube. Titanium is close to double the price steel, but if weight is important then it could be worth the extra $$$. For centerfire rifle silencers I am a big fan of Yankee Hill and Gemtech.
I have three different .22 rimfire suppressors: one from Tactical Solutions, one from GGS, and another from NFA Gear (in natural aluminum finish). I don't like the Tactical Solutions suppressor as it requires a dedicated tool to disassemble the suppressor and it is very difficult to clean. The CGS suppressor is much easier to disassemble (no tool required) and is easier to clean. The NFA Gear suppressor is even easier. It is also much larger, but because it was intended for use on my Ruger SS target rifle size hardly matters.
Any way that you look at it, .22 rimfire suppressors are a pain to clean; even the best .22 rimfire ammo is still dirty. But clean you must, otherwise the entire suppressor will seize and you'll struggle get it disassembled on your home workbench.
Take a look around on line and pick the brains of the folks at the Silencer Shop. Good luck. Mark C.
Thanks Mark.........I did take a walk over to the Silencer Shop and just as I suspected..........the first one they showed me was titanium and over $1k.
Im going to look around for more info
OK-Are these threaded to screw onto the firearm? If so doesn't that mean the firearm barrel end has to be threaded? Also is it true that on many auto's a spring change is needed to make up for the pressure differential?
Unlike the majority of centrefire handguns, suppressors for centerfire rifle and all rimfires do not need springs or pistons. Attaching the suppressor requires a threaded barrel. This can mean "direct thread"; the suppressor screws directly on to the barrel- common for handguns and rimfires and some centerfire rifles. Most shooters install a QD muzzle device which will accept the suppressor:
The top photo shows the Yankee Hill QD mount attached to my SIG MPX. Once it is in place you screw the suppressor onto the mount rather than the barrel. This give a much more secure lock up than direct thread, which can back off during firing. You really don't want your suppressor flying down range.
Keep in mind that most of these QD mounts are proprietary, so if you go with Yankee Hill brand suppressors, you'll be buying their mounts and nothing else.
some are directly screwed on to a threaded barrel.......some use a barrel adapter that doubles as a flash hider. Not sure about the spring change.
Here is a much better shot of the QD mount:
The large ring near the rear acts as a ratchet to hold the suppressor in place. Two or three twists and the can is on or off. By the way. These cans get HOT after just a few rounds. Use a barbeque glove to remove a hot suppressor, otherwise you are risking a serous burn to the palm of your hand.
YHM is a good choice. We have 3 YHM (2x .30 & 1x .223).
I have a Rugged that has interchangeable front caps. Using the 30 cal. muffler on a .223 it does seem to make it a bit quieter using the .223 sized front cap--just make double darned sure you replace the front cap when going to a bigger caliber.
Direct thread suppressors will often be a bit lighter due to not adding the weight of the muzzle device (mounting adaptor). The muffler on my coyote calling rifle is a direct thread and stays mounted except when cleaning the host. It is tightened using a barrel vise and strap wrench to reduce the possibility of loosening.
Not sure what sort of springs you refer to. On AR type systems, the backpressure may require a heavier buffer and/or adjustable gas block. I use Adams Arms piston kits on all my AR hosts. This gives an instant choice of gas setting on those rifles which are used both open and muffled AND when set to "off" turns the AR into a manually operated magazine fed repeater- that's when you find just how quiet your muffler is cause you don't hear the cycling of the rifle.
I have a 30 cal Dead Air Nomad-L. It quiets down 223 to the point of not needing to wear hearing protection - no ear ring when firing my AR Pistol. The problem is it's heavy sucker.
This past hunting season, I was planning on mounting it on my Savage Scout rifle. The Savage is not a light weight rifle. The Dead Air Nomad-L is not a light weight can. The 2 combined were too heavy for hiking Missouri's hills looking for deer.
If I buy another 30 cal can I'll look for a lighter weight one.
In fact if you want to compare can weights, see if that shop has a Nomad-L. Heft that can and compare it to other cans. Lighter weight is worth it in my opinion.
I still don't have a 22 cal can but here e-form 4's are going fast. I had to wait almost a full year to get stamps for my 2 cans.
The other can I got is a 9mm Gemtech Lunar 9. I find it works best on a pistol caliber carbine with a 3 lug mount. Direct thread, it wants to unscrew itself, which is not a good thing. Suppressors get HOT - talking 900deg hot. You don't want to touch that thing when firing it.
If you can afford to do so, get 3 cans right from the start. A 30 cal, a 9mm or 45 cal, and a 22 cal can.
I should've gotten a 22 can when I went through that whole process.
My first will be a .22 I have decided.
ok question for you guys, what would you suggest for a all around use ( 1 can for different rifles from ) 350 Legend, 357 mag or a 9mm carbine ? and could that same unit be used on 30 cal or even down to 556 ?
Take a look at this suppressor, it costs a ton, but it covers a wide range of calibers and it might be just what you are looking for:
Dragoon .350 QD – Tion, Inc. (tioninc.com)
Thanks for the link ! I'll check it out
If it gets hot you probably need one of those "shoulder things that goes up". 😀
Those shoulder things are cop killers.......used by gangsters.....bwaahaahaa
That looks like a nice suppressor..........need to save lots of pennies to get one of those.........🤣