Tree Stump Question Sort of
I've had this nuisance tree growing practically under a small section of fence on the side of my house butting up against my neighbors fence, for twenty years. I had to trim twice a year so I could at least look out my bath room window. It was nearly up to 10 feet in the air when I decided to cut it down. It was practically growing into my fence and earlier this week I trimmed off as many of the branches as I could. I had to remove 4 fence pickets as this tree was wrapping itself around them. Stopped at Harbor Freight and bought some nuclear sawz all blades for cutting wood. It still took about 10 minutes to get through the base. Now what can I do with the stump I have left so it will never grow again. Its to close to both to my and my neighbors fence to dig it out. Actually the fence pickets when attached to the fence are partially over the stump.
Comments
Drill several holes 6- 8" into the stump and pour/sweep potassium nitrate into the holes. It's readily available in small containers at most hardware and home improvement stores commonly call "stump remover", time ?? depends on the size of the stump left. What's left over can be used in making black powder 😊
"Never do wrong to make a friend----or to keep one".....Robert E. Lee
I had a tree that looked like that growing in my yard several years ago.Every time I cut it it would grow back even faster.It was just a huge weed.I had a bridle Plott hound that for some reason hated that tree.The last time it grew back the hound gnawed it to the ground and dug up the stump and roots.
I hate to tell you this.............looks like Chinaberry..........and if you don't dig it up or chemically kill it..........IT WILL GROW BACK.
Drill a few holes in the top and squirt in a little Roundup. That's about the only way I can permanently get rid of mullberry. Dang things will grow back if even a little root is left in the ground. Bob
Drill some holes... fill it up with ice cream salt. Or just take the sawzall and start cutting it out.
2,4,D, Crossbow, Tordon, Glyphosate, maybe just some used motor oil, or even clorox. Drill some holes down into the stump to hold whatever liquid you choose.
You are right about those Mulberry trees. Cut it down and dig it and it still comes back. Piled bricks on top of it for three years. Removed the bricks and it started growing again.
Do as Mobuck suggested. I've used crossbow and tordon also with good results. Then there is always C-4.
This looks like a job for Tannerite!!!
Crossbow and tordon will trans locate and get in the roots of anything nearby. All we do to kill stumps is paint the cambium layer with roundup after it is cut down. If you wait to paint it with roundup, you have to shave the hardened wood off again. Don
dig what little dirt you can out from around it with small handheld garden spade or shovel, then take the sawzall to it, you can go right into the dirt and cut any root you can reach then just keep cutting peices off till you get it below grade, put the salt, roundup, or what ever is handy to the root hole, then cover it up and forget it, if you keep it mowed weekly it shouldn't grow back.......
As already been said, Tordon, or Pathway. Paint the stump with it and problem is solved.
I used Roundup on a Weeping Willow tree stump near a creek and it never sprouted any new growth.
Just a side note; I used the concentrate without diluting with water.
If I come down with Non-Hodgkin's Lymphoma in the near future, please save this post to prove my plight for some of that multi billion dollar settlement money! 😁
Use Tordon, then in a month or two drill a bunch of holes in it. Go find a park or forest with a big dead tree that is rotting on the ground. Gather a bucket of rotten decomposing pulp like saw dust stuff. Buy a bag of high nitrogen fertilizer and mix with the pulp. cover stump with mixture and keep moist water a couple times a week. in a year the stump will have decomposed enough that you can break apart with an axe. Then cover with dirt and move on.
Yeah, you won't grow any flowers (or any other 'broadleaf' plant) within several feet of the stump for years after applying TORDON.
Two years ago, we planted soybeans in a field that hadn't been farmed for decades. The previous landowner was a bit 'generous' with his TORDON pellet application on multiflora rose bushes(he's been dead for a decade now) so we had these 6-8' diameter dead spots scattered across the field. Same thing happened the next year. This year the field is in corn.
From the leaves it is ailanthus or "tree of heaven" (though I cannot imagine why). Southeast Asian introduced trash tree. Seeds are wind dispursed. I pull many 10s of seedlings yearly. Most of the hole drilling toxin induction schemes mentioned above will work. It is inclined to suckered, so you may not be quite done.
Otherwise it'll come back up as a bush.
'Stump Rot'
One more herbicide I can add to the discussion with 6-8" drilled holes in stump. Trichlopyr. One brand name is Remedy. Fertilome also markets it as Brush and Stump killer. Works wonders on Chinese tallow
I bought a product at Lowe's called Stump Out found a 10 inch long half inch bit and drilled 8 holes in it. Poured the powder in and now its a wait and see to see how good it works. Thanks for all your suggestions but most of them were unavailable to me unless I ordered them on line.
Tordon. Just lightly brush the stump; it doesn't take much. Been using it for 25 years on Mulberry and other rapidly growing trees.
Tordon will follow roots all the way to their end. May KO some non target plants.
Used it for locust and multifloral rose. DRT but killed a few evergreens about 30 plus feet away.
I have read a cow can eat grass in a tordon treated field, poop in an untreated field and kill weeds around the cow pattie.
Neighbor killed a poplar about 30 inches through with the stuff. Grubbed the stump and drug it through his baccer field, Nothing would grow in a strip 20 feet wide. True story.
I would add some water to the powder in the holes drilled. Herbicide will translocate to the roots much quicker.
Sumac, i believe