In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.
Loc-Tite
asop
Member Posts: 8,977 ✭✭✭✭
So the scope on my Mosin-Nagant came loose at the range the other day. Been sometime since I secured it using Loc-Tite. Please correct me if I'm wrong here but isn't the purple colored product for 1/4" or less fittings and is removable? Blue would be for over 1/4" fittings, also removable. With the red & green being a permanent installation? Been awhile! Thanks
Comments
I personally use blue on just about everything. I use red on large items like cars, truck, lawn equipment.
Purple is more removable than blue, which is more removable than red. I've never seen any general rule regarding thread size though.
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
I use blue loctite on handgun optics. It is just right when used as a secondary locking feature, torque being the primary locking feature.
color seems right use blue most all the time red I f I don't plan on taking it apart never heard of size to determine color
will add make sure what ever your using it on is clean with solvent to allow the Loctite to bond any oil will act like a parting agent.
I use blue and darn little of it. I usually apply it with a toothpick. I've never heard of the fitting size thing either. Not saying it's not true. I've only recently heard of purple loctite.
Purple is for heat resistant low strength
When I was young and knew everything I had a Triumph GT-6 with wire wheels.I didnt tighten one of the wheel hold downs tight enough and when I put on brakes,it stripped the splines on the wheel. At that time parts for British cars were scarce and expensive so I couldn't find replacement parts.I used red lock tight to hold the wheel on.When I had to have the tires replaced nobody could get the wheel off.They called an old guy that had worked on cars where the tires had to be changed on the car and he got the job done.I drove that car thousands of miles with lock tight holding the wheel on.
I only use the Blue on my firearms/scopes. I learned the hard way, to not use red!!! Blue will come off with a screwdriver.
Years ago there was an interesting article in Precision Shooting magazine concerning threads, lubrication, and screw torque. The portion concerning thread engagement and "locking" effect when lightly lubed was intriguing.........ever notice how ring/base screws "pop" when later loosened?
(edit: I should have qualified the above, by stating the use of steel rings and bases.)
BTW.......for trigger settings I use clear fingernail polish AFTER adjustments are made.
"BTW.......for trigger settings I use clear fingernail polish AFTER adjustments are made."
Does it make your guns feel "pretty"? Sorry, I just couldn't resist...🤣
Made glasses in Reno and Carson City for forty five years.
Slather a bit clear fingernail polish on the screws that hold the lenses in.
A little acetone and you can get'um apart if you have to change the lenses.
Nope........but we could take up a collection, to get you some Passion Pink for your Ruuuuuuuuuuuuugers!!🤠😇
Funny guys/gals are everywhere on this board. 🙃🙄
I use blue or green. Red is permanent and not good for scope bases.
I use a toothpick, place a drop of Loctite on a piece of plastic and touch the toothpick then touch the scope base screw threads and install. Make sure the screw threads and the threaded hole is clean and no oil.
Some scope bases are not worth installing, too soft material.
Stick with name brand Bases such as Weaver, Leupold, Burris.
Weaver got a bad rap for years due to people installing WEAVER STYLE scope stuff. They bad mouthed Weaver because they installed WEAVER STYLE China stuff.
For a Jaw dropper look at the price of loc-tite now days.
My dad taught me that trick, about ten years ago, when I was replacing the triggers on my 700 BDL's.
Do what the old timers did. Clean the internal/external threads and put on a drop of iodine and tighten. And don’t even think of ever removing that screw. It’s rusted in place.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND THE ABOVE, EVER ,,,,,,