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Chainsaw sharpening ???
NeoBlackdog
Member Posts: 17,175 ✭✭✭✭
What's the trick? I've been using these things since the mid 70's (including a 3 month stint in an SE Alaskan logging camp) but have never really mastered a good sharpening technique.
What do y'all use? Freehand? A special guide or other gizmo?
(I'm counting on YOU here @Horse Plains Drifter , I remember those pics of you in your faller days!)
Comments
Had one of these for years....
https://www.baileysonline.com/tecomec-super-jolly-bench-mounted-chain-grinder-120-volt.html
I sharpen freehand but use a raker gauge. I always have a new chain for accidents and mishaps.
I sharpen free hand.
Get the right sized file for the teeth on your chain. Use a raker gauge. And just go slowly following the correct angle. I really don't like guides much, but if you have problems following the correct angle you might want one. We used these in the forest service and they work pretty well:
https://www.northerntool.com/products/granberg-bar-mount-chainsaw-sharpener-model-g-106b-1976?cm_mmc
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
Seen or used every gadget imaginable and found there is nothing better than manually with a round file, You must use the correct diameter specified for the blade cutters and hold at angle specified usually 30 degrees. I leave the blade on the saw and cut up an average oak tree before I need to sharpen again.
Have seen many blades destroyed with some of the so called miracle gadgets.
I sharpen on site with the saw on my tailgate and takes about 10-15 minutes. Many U tube videos this subject, hope this helps.
Bench grinder to true them up. Hand file in the field.
I keep several chains sharp ahead of the work day.
Best way to keep a saw sharp. Keep it out of the dirt.
If you train your eye, you can see a dull cutting edge with reading glasses.
Also, all the teeth need to be close to the same length. A short tooth will not cut.
Once you hit a rock, it takes a lot of work to get the chain back in shape.
I might add, new chain is sometimes better than fussing with a damaged chain.
A dremel and diamond hone, freehand. Magic marker first tooth, do all one side, then the other.
Margaret Thatcher
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies and statistics."
Mark Twain
I hand sharpen all different sizes and types of chainsaw chains.
I can hand sharpen sharpen a chain down to the last bit of a tooth. (I use these type chains for fence rows and next to the ground cutting)
I do not use any guides or gauges of any kind.
If you do not know what a sharp chain should look like, (what you are trying to accomplish with the file) no need in even trying to hand file.
Using the wrong size file per the pitch of the chain will not get er sharp.
It's not rocket science, lots of info on-line about such. Just practice and you will eventually get the idea.
Maybe get a new chain of the same type as you are going to try to sharpen. Look at the cutters on the new chain, then look at the dull chain then practice on the dull chain and put it in the wood as a test right after you practice.
It's not bragging if you have done it.
That's a nice grinder Todd posted up. I have the same grinder wearing Oregon badges.I also have a Foley round grinder, and a Silvey SDM4 chisel or square grinder. Now down to chain. Are you using chisel bit chain, or that stuff with the rounded corner? I run all chisel bit 3/8 .063 gauge skip tooth. You're probably running .050 gauge, which is fine. Skip tooth chain actually cuts faster because it does not bog the saw down like full comp chain can. In fact it usually frees the saw up enough you can go up a tooth size on the drive sprocket. That really makes the chain hustle. Skip tooth chain also files much quicker because it has 1/3 less teeth. Supposedly it does not cut as smooth as full comp due to the wider tooth spacing, but I never noticed that.
As far as filing, chisel bit chain files well. I usually run a little more angle on the top plate than the specs call for. I also make sure the file is cutting down deep in the tooth. that keeps the gullet of the tooth cut out, puts a nice hook in the tooth, and keeps a nice top plate under angle. If you let the file ride up high in the tooth, the top plate under angle is blunt, and the tooth loses it's hook. Using a dull file encourages it to ride up high on the tooth. Also if you're filing chisel chain, the handle end of the file is supposed to be 10° down from 90°. If you look at the actual specs the chain isn't supposed to really have any hook, but let me tell ya, it sure cuts better. The drawback to having some hook is it puts a thin pointy corner on the chain. While it sure cuts nice, it really dulls when you hit something.
As far as the rakers (they're called riders around here), Best to use a gauge as dunbarboyz said. I run mine .005"-.010" lower than the specs call for.
Here would be a good type of chain If you are running .050 Gauge:
https://www.baileysonline.com/oregon-72exj-3-8-x-050-skiptooth-powercut-chainsaw-chain-orfp-72exj.html
BTW I know the nephew of the guy who invented chainsaw chain and founded the Oregon Company.
Here are a couple videos you might find helpful:
Good Videos ^^ I too use Oregon blades
Thanks guys. Appreciate all the input. I'm runnin' a Stihl chisel tooth, 3/8, .050 on a Stihl MS390 with a 25" bar. Like I said, spent a lot of time runnin' these things, was a Class B faller/operator when I worked for the Forest Circus and when I was in Alaska I was regularly buckin' 6' cedars and hemlocks. I can get 'em pretty sharp but in a big piece of wood it always wants to drift a little bit, usually to the left.
One drawback to hand filing is one usually gets one side shorter than the other. That will cause it to wander off. Other things to consider: How much time is on the bar? Maybe need to grind and squeeze the rails. Is the bar straight?
And flip the bar once in a while.
For 10 bucks, my local saw shop (Diamond Saw Shop) Susanville, Ca. will grind my chain professionally and true up the bar. If I keep it outa the dirt it lasts about 3-4 cord before needing attention. Wife & I cut 10 -12 cord per year and since we are gittin' up there in years,I'll be 80 in January, we like to keep a year or two ahead. The scalpers are getting $175 - $200 per cord already depending on species and length and it ain't even winner yet!!! BTW, I retired from the timber industry with 38 years. I used a Sachs Dolmar for years, but later went to Husquevarna and never regretted my choice. Ed
That's one of the biggest keys right there. If they're not all the same length, or close, you will cut crooked.
I clamp my bar in my vise and hand file the chain. My file has a guide on it for the angle. I have had shoulder issues for some time so I retired my old Stihl and bought a new Stihl (I can't remember the number} but it's the one where you pre-tension a spring and it does the starting.
When I was in Lowes some time back I found cans of pre-mixed fuel and oil, so I bought 2 cans. This stuff is great. I hadn't run my saw in over a year, and it just sat under my workbench in my barn. I filled the tank with that fuel and it started on the first pull. I have never before had a saw cold start on the first pull before.
Joe
This is not a bad option at all. We used to run with several chains for working in the field and then sharpen them all back in the shop in one fell swoop. I need a couple more chains and I will just use that approach, only just have a local shop sharpen them all for me in the off season.
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
Good video above but
Something that is not reaxdily apparent with that type file guide and it's not mentioned in any of the instructions:
I've seen guys try to use the Oregon file guide mentioned at about 9:40 area in the above link video.
Things I've found out from seeing it used by a Novice.
It's Ok when a chain has a 75-100% tooth (tooth has 75% or more length)
If the cutter tooth is worn back at the 50% or less and the raker or depth tang is then too high the file in the guide will actually dull the tooth due to the raker holding the file and guide too HIGH on the front of the tooth and the file is dulling instead of sharpening.. Make sure the raker is correct BEFORE using that type file guide. (because the guide uses the top of the raker to hold the file and guide at the correct height on the tooth being sharpened)
Also those Ordgon files guides are for specific sized files and not labeled or stamped as such in the metal and installing the wrong size file in the Oregon files guide is not a good thing. Only the original paper packaging was labeled as to the proper size file to use or the file that comes with the guide.
I will have to agree with elubsme. I have my chain saw blades sharpened for $8 and he also checks and grinds the depth on it. Some people have a real knack for it. Also I have him sharpen the mower blades for me, $15 for three blades. Not only does he sharpen them he cleans and balances them. And believe, when he’s done sharpening the blades you could cut steaks at the table with them. Older guy 85 years old And has been sharpening stuff all his life.
I hand sharpen my chains until I notice them beginning to 'run off'. Then it's off to the "professional saw chain destroyer" down the road. Sometimes they come back better and sometimes not(you gotta take the average).
Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener.
I used to have my chains sharpened by a really good local guy. He went out of business and I found myself 100 miles out in the boonies and needing chains sharpened.
Since I have a generator and a Dremel I found the diamond hone to be a good substitute.
Your mileage may vary.
Margaret Thatcher
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies and statistics."
Mark Twain
Well, I spent yesterday pickin' my way through a deck of logs to put up the last of this years firewood. Got about 2.5 more cords to split up and stack in the woodshed.
The saw did pretty good! I really took my time when sharpening it Tuesday evening and I must've done something right. It cut about as straight as I've ever had it cut. The chain I'm running is my spare, I need to pick up another and think I might try a skip-tooth this time.
The deck we were working out of is up where my sister-in-law has a little cabin on a small lake. As a bonus we got to see a cow moose and her calf when we drove in yesterday. I'd never seen a moose before so it was pretty exciting.
The only way to go ,I've use mine lots , take about 5 min. all sharpened the same .
Good to hear. I have only ever run skip tooth except one time I made a mistake and ran a non-skip one day in the FS.
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
Skip tooth are the cats meow. Makes a Stihl out of a puuulan. Word of caution, the saw will kick back quicker if not handled carefully
Also, most, if not all, chain files are single cut files. ( Google it). Apply pressure only on the forward stroke.