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Could this be fixed w/o full reblue?
Warbirds
Member Posts: 16,846 ✭✭✭✭
This is a gun on the auction side. I just don't think I could live with this scratch.
Could it be fixed w/o rebluing the whole frame?
Could it be fixed w/o rebluing the whole frame?
Comments
quote:Brownells Oxpho-Blue, would disguise the scratch.
Disguise is the proper word to use to describe what it will look like. A cursory inspection might overlook the attempt but a slightly closer look will expose the attempt at hiding the scratch.
There is no cold blue or touch up bluing which will both cover the scratch and appear to be just like a full hot blue job. Different folks will try to convince you that they have the secret but it just simply isn't true. The process to accomplish cold blue will interact with the edges of the original finish and make the attempt show even though you've covered the scratch with color. If that's O.K. with you then have at it.
Best.
Cold blue will darken the bare steel but the scratch will still be there. A reblue that would include polishing out the scratch would probably cost around half the value of the gun.
Me, if the price was good, the rest of the pistol was in prime shape (minimal end shake, small cylinder gap, tight crane) and I needed a shooter - I would cold blue it and shoot it.
Some "bluing wear" is easier to touch up than others. Matte, such as the trigger guard edge on a Smith 28 or on a military rifle, responds better than others. In general, high polish, deep bluing is the more difficult to do and looks the worst. You can't get as deep and usually end up with a color mismatch.
My suggestion -
Don't steel wool, sand, crocus cloth or polish the scratch - you'll only make the mark larger. De-grease it. Apply just enough heat to get it warm as apple pie. Then use Oxpho or DICROPAN cold bluing. A few passes & applications with a QTip is about as good as it's going to get.
If you can diminish the contrast & protect the metal that's the best result to be had.
Look on the bright side - at least it's not on the sideplate.
I melted all edges and sharp corners in early 60's for daily pocket carry. It didn't affect blued areas and took care of scratches.
The gun looked well and finish was very durable.
I also used it on an SAA Colt trigger guard, backstrap and ejector rod maybe also the cylinder-I forget. Results were likewise very good.
Durability I believe is much better than cold blues.
Please pay attention to this:
quote:FWIW I've been playing around with "cold blue" for about 45 years. I've gotten very good at touching up sharper areas like the muzzle, leading edge of a cylinder or the sides of a trigger guard. But that's about as far as it goes and it's not durable. None of the cold blues "match" a finish, none of them are particularly durable
The Herter's Belgium Blue is a form of rust blueing and involves more than just trying to camouflage a scratch. Please read the description on the Brownells website or at Art's who now owns the formula.
Best.