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check engine light on this am
mouse
Member Posts: 3,624
The check engine light comes on this am. I pull off the hwy,
pop the engine. Antifreeze is fine, oil is overfilled. Dipstick
shows above the line what the dipstick reads between low and full.
Come ON!!!! I just had the oil changed etc. a week ago. Can't
you blow/leak your seals this way. I call the dealership....
yawn yawn...."It's probably only 1/2 quart over...bring the
car in and we'll check it." I asked him " Can't overflowing
the engine oil cause your seals to leak?" No appology...
no answer except....oh that little bit of oil won't matter...
bring it in and we'll drain some out" "the check engine light
is just an emissions problem." Cadilletic sp? converter...
1800 bucks problem....
Question; Could their over filling the oil cause this to go on?
Why would I want to take it back to some clowns who can't even
change the oil correctly?[:(!]
pop the engine. Antifreeze is fine, oil is overfilled. Dipstick
shows above the line what the dipstick reads between low and full.
Come ON!!!! I just had the oil changed etc. a week ago. Can't
you blow/leak your seals this way. I call the dealership....
yawn yawn...."It's probably only 1/2 quart over...bring the
car in and we'll check it." I asked him " Can't overflowing
the engine oil cause your seals to leak?" No appology...
no answer except....oh that little bit of oil won't matter...
bring it in and we'll drain some out" "the check engine light
is just an emissions problem." Cadilletic sp? converter...
1800 bucks problem....
Question; Could their over filling the oil cause this to go on?
Why would I want to take it back to some clowns who can't even
change the oil correctly?[:(!]
Comments
Put the gas/wbottle of HEAT in my old pickup on top of some other gas. Truck ran OK, but check engine light would come on intermitently until it was all run out.
You can take your car to any one of several nationwide parts dealers and they'll run a free diagnostic on it.
Could be cheap gas. I bought 5 gallons at a local (rural) station awhile back for my mower. It absolutely wouldn't run on it.
Put the gas/wbottle of HEAT in my old pickup on top of some other gas. Truck ran OK, but check engine light would come on intermitently until it was all run out.
You can take your car to any one of several nationwide parts dealers and they'll run a free diagnostic on it.
Actually they got sued by mechanics for "offering free service work" so they can't even LOAN the scanner tool anymore. You have to buy it from them. However, if you do purchase one, I believe they will probably help you use it. At least that's the way it is in California now.
The check engine light usually indicates there is an anomoly in the emissions system. If you want to save some money, take it to Advance Auto or Autozone, and they will hook up their OBD computer and tell you what the problem is, and will do it for free. This can save you a good bit of money, because the problem may be something you can fix yourself. I took my wife's vehicle to Advance Auto last week because the 'check' light had activated. Malfunction of MAF sensor and downdraft O2 sensor.
MAF sensors are rather simple to remedy, and most of the time, you do not have to nuy a new one or have it replaced. If you take the MAF assembly off, and look in it, you will see 1 or 2 small wires. They are very delicate, and easily broken. Over time, they will accrue a build-up on them. A couple of shots from a can of electrical contact cleaner, and the MAF sensor is as good as new. Been doing that for years, and it has saved me a ton of dough.
Picked up an o2 sensor for $80. Just a matter of crawling under the vehicle, unpugging the old one, removing the two bolts that hold it on, and replacing it with the new sensor.
BTW,
No excuse for them filling your oil over capacity. If you do not mind me asking, where did you have the service performed?
Some over full on oil won't hurt. To start blowing oil out you have to add a lot extra, 2-3+ quarts.
To answer original question, I don't think that overfilling an engine can cause the mil to come on, at least not on a Honda.. A half qt. over won't blow or make any seals leak, that's not that bad. A whole lot of times a mil out of the blue happens a couple trips after refueling, if the gascap isn't tightened at least three clicks, or we see a lot of o2 sensors fail, some cars are notorious for the three way cat deteriorating if the o2's aren't metering properly. If your car isn't flex fuel compatable, you could have a lot of fuel delivery problems if you've unknowingly used fuel with a lot of ethanol in it or that e85 garbage. I've seen a lot of check engine lights in our older vehicles with metal tanks, runs rough, removed fuel pump and found orange rusty fuel in fuel tank. So many things it could be, but probably not from overfilling oil by half qt.
quote:Originally posted by Fatstrat
Could be cheap gas. I bought 5 gallons at a local (rural) station awhile back for my mower. It absolutely wouldn't run on it.
Put the gas/wbottle of HEAT in my old pickup on top of some other gas. Truck ran OK, but check engine light would come on intermitently until it was all run out.
You can take your car to any one of several nationwide parts dealers and they'll run a free diagnostic on it.
Actually they got sued by mechanics for "offering free service work" so they can't even LOAN the scanner tool anymore. You have to buy it from them. However, if you do purchase one, I believe they will probably help you use it. At least that's the way it is in California now.
im pretty sure thats only in California....Virginia and Flordia still check them for you. They may not clear them...but they will check them. Thats the price you pay to live in a state with less freedom.
free scan. Said it was a small gas cap leak. Told me to
put a little vaseline around edge of gas cap seal, to keep
it pliable. They cleared the computer. Also checked my
brakes for free while I was there. Real nice fella's,
quick too. Drove the 20 miles home after giving the guy
$10 bucks for being so sweet. They also drained out the
extra half quart of oil that was in the motor. Feel much
better now. Thanks guys. If it comes back on I'll do
the other stuff too. I took notes.[:)]
Oh I took it in for the oil change originally at the Lexus/kia
dealer I bought it from.
That truck never liked me, though. Every time I turned the key on, it called me "airbag". I'm mean, I know I talk alot, but....
[:D]
Toyota Camry. I went to Auto place recommended, they did a
free scan. Said it was a small gas cap leak. Told me to
put a little vaseline around edge of gas cap seal, to keep
it pliable. They cleared the computer. Also checked my
brakes for free while I was there. Real nice fella's,
quick too. Drove the 20 miles home after giving the guy
$10 bucks for being so sweet. They also drained out the
extra half quart of oil that was in the motor. Feel much
better now. Thanks guys. If it comes back on I'll do
the other stuff too. I took notes.[:)]
Oh I took it in for the oil change originally at the Lexus/kia
dealer I bought it from.
What a strange juxtaposition !!
Doug
Toyota Camry. I went to Auto place recommended, they did a
free scan. Said it was a small gas cap leak. Told me to
put a little vaseline around edge of gas cap seal, to keep
it pliable. They cleared the computer. Also checked my
brakes for free while I was there. Real nice fella's,
quick too. Drove the 20 miles home after giving the guy
$10 bucks for being so sweet. They also drained out the
extra half quart of oil that was in the motor. Feel much
better now. Thanks guys. If it comes back on I'll do
the other stuff too. I took notes.[:)]
Oh I took it in for the oil change originally at the Lexus/kia
dealer I bought it from.
Mouse,
Good to hear it was nothing major.[;)]
As far as service needs, I would not take any vehicle back to the stealership if I could help it. I had a '96 Tacoma that needed a new clutch. Called the dealership's service dept, and they advised me a ball park estimate would be $950. I asked if they had the clutch in stock. They did, and it was $350. Told them I'd find the parts and do it myself. They tried 40 ways to hell to talk me out of it. Said I'd be getting in over my head, that I'd cause irrepairable damage, and may even seriously injure myself in the process.
Found a wrecked '96 Tacoma in a local salvage yard that had sustained severe damage from the cab back. Got the clutch and plate for $65.00. Picked up a new bearing for $4. Rented a transmission jack for $20.
$90 and 7 hours of my time saved me $850+
the O2 sensor will save you gas though man.....without it working right....your engine goes into a safe mode (runs a little rich)
And then makes the CAT work harder so it will go bad.
My check engine light has been on for the last 35,000 miles.. oxygen sensor kaput...No big deal..
Those are 1 of the easiest fixes U can do on your own, and their pretty cheep too..
quote:Originally posted by Fatstrat
Could be cheap gas. I bought 5 gallons at a local (rural) station awhile back for my mower. It absolutely wouldn't run on it.
Put the gas/wbottle of HEAT in my old pickup on top of some other gas. Truck ran OK, but check engine light would come on intermitently until it was all run out.
You can take your car to any one of several nationwide parts dealers and they'll run a free diagnostic on it.
Actually they got sued by mechanics for "offering free service work" so they can't even LOAN the scanner tool anymore. You have to buy it from them. However, if you do purchase one, I believe they will probably help you use it. At least that's the way it is in California now.
I'm sorry if you live in Cali but in the real world its still free
My check engine light has been on for the last 35,000 miles.. oxygen sensor kaput...No big deal..
That kind of thinking is why I sell about 100 catalytic converters a week to muffler shops[:D] Thank you for your lack of vehicle service lol. Seriously though if YOU can change your o2 sensor I would do it-most of them are easy enough to do. If you have one that isn't running properly it can just cause the computer to dump more fuel into the system and then the cat cannot burn it off and it will either break up or melt possibly leaving you stranded at the worst time. You definately don't want to have to replace a cat-especially OBD2 convertors as they aren't cheap. Some o2 malfunctions take time to ruin the cat and I've seen others that were ruined in a matter of weeks from bad o2 or from bad spark plug wires/improperly tuned car.
Disconnect your battery for 3 min. Reconnect. Prob. solved...
Watch about doing that if your Stereo has security built in. If its a used vehical thats even more of a problem. When somebody reset the code from the factory one and did not provide it when they sold it.
Trust me I know battery Died now I have no stereo. Need to take it back one more time to see if they can do anything before i have to replace it. Sure sounded great tjust the way it was.
unless of course the crank is whipping it into foam at which point you are essentially cavitating the oil pump, AIR IS NOT A GOOD LUBRICANT!
speedbuggy16v
Speedbuggy16v
Just because you have a code of P2032 or what ever the code maybe and it says O2 sensor, does not mean its to O2 sensor at all.
That is a diagonistic measure that sends you into the right direction of which you need to furthermore diagnose. It does not mean replace your O2 sensor, it simply says there is a circuit problem within that entire circuit somewhere.
You can go to Advance or Auto Zone all day long and wheel barrel all the parts in as long as you have the time to do so and don't mind come backs...Or in your case its still got to go back, because it still isn't fixed. Thats what they want..You to have to keep coming back in.
If its a so called gas cap problem, that will only be because you left it off after a fill up....A simple clear of codes will fix that. But that will also send you into the EGR code ..Exhaust gas recirulation. You will have to find the true air leak, which means you must now have to use a smoke machine to force it out. The smoke will pin point your problem if you see smoke leaking out.
Let me know what your true code is and I can hands down tell you the direction you need to go...I have shop key at my finger tips.
yes air compresses, where does it go right into the main oil passages. straight to the mains and on from there, a engine should always be properly filled, not overfilled, nor under filled. While there is a lot of room for error either way, and yes a half a quart is unlikely to be whipped into foam by the crank. Why not do the job right the first time and not take chances? Personally I have seen plenty of engines destroyed by people not taking care of them, so I will go with the dipstick and the engineer the decided, the full, low and overfull marks or ideas, if you read your manual overfilling is not recomended, not because of foaming, but because of increased oil use which WILL clog a catalytic converter long before that becomes a issue. Either way, overfilling is not a good idea
Speedbuggy16v
Yes don't over fill the oil... Your catalitic converter doesn't stand a chance... Its choking to death from the blow by.
That extra oil has got to go somewhere... If its not out your exhaust pipe which has to go past the catalitic converter and will plug it up. Its going to blow out your seals.
ALL OVER THE PLACE.[:D]
Just fill a glass up with water and overflow it....Where does the extra water go?
Yep the Pistons going up and down at a high force of pressure will blow it out. Your seals are done.
Good that you sell all those converters,, But you jumped the gun,, The entire exhaust system was changed on my truck and that is what triggered the O2 sensor, and made the light go on.There is actually not a damn thing wrong with the truck, I could reset the light but really no need to. Not a big deal..
Way to many back yard alley mechanics here...We don't even know what the code is and we have many explantitons as to why you need to take it to Auto Zone or Advanced. Just to check your code? That is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard.
Just because you have a code of P2032 or what ever the code maybe and it says O2 sensor, does not mean its to O2 sensor at all.
That is a diagonistic measure that sends you into the right direction of which you need to furthermore diagnose. It does not mean replace your O2 sensor, it simply says there is a circuit problem within that entire circuit somewhere.
You can go to Advance or Auto Zone all day long and wheel barrel all the parts in as long as you have the time to do so and don't mind come backs...Or in your case its still got to go back, because it still isn't fixed. Thats what they want..You to have to keep coming back in.
If its a so called gas cap problem, that will only be because you left it off after a fill up....A simple clear of codes will fix that. But that will also send you into the EGR code ..Exhaust gas recirulation. You will have to find the true air leak, which means you must now have to use a smoke machine to force it out. The smoke will pin point your problem if you see smoke leaking out.
Let me know what your true code is and I can hands down tell you the direction you need to go...I have shop key at my finger tips.
Lemme guess. You are a mechanic, and you abhor the fact that some folks would rather do it themselves than come to you and pay exponential sums of money for P&L.
Had them do the smoke test, on mine found nothing. They wanted to start throwing parts at it. Dealership too. Mine comes on for a while then gone. Shuts its self off. Its been like this for a year. Every time the light comes on I put the meter on it just in case, as long as its the same code I let it go.
AT
Way to many back yard alley mechanics here...We don't even know what the code is and we have many explantitons as to why you need to take it to Auto Zone or Advanced. Just to check your code? That is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard.
Just because you have a code of P2032 or what ever the code maybe and it says O2 sensor, does not mean its to O2 sensor at all.
That is a diagonistic measure that sends you into the right direction of which you need to furthermore diagnose. It does not mean replace your O2 sensor, it simply says there is a circuit problem within that entire circuit somewhere.
You can go to Advance or Auto Zone all day long and wheel barrel all the parts in as long as you have the time to do so and don't mind come backs...Or in your case its still got to go back, because it still isn't fixed. Thats what they want..You to have to keep coming back in.
If its a so called gas cap problem, that will only be because you left it off after a fill up....A simple clear of codes will fix that. But that will also send you into the EGR code ..Exhaust gas recirulation. You will have to find the true air leak, which means you must now have to use a smoke machine to force it out. The smoke will pin point your problem if you see smoke leaking out.
Let me know what your true code is and I can hands down tell you the direction you need to go...I have shop key at my finger tips.
I don't know what car line you work on, but on Hondas' the EGR system has nothing to do with the evap system or any "fuel cap" code, which (for a Honda at least) is p0456 or 1456.
At least in 13 years of working on Hondas, I haven't seen any evap problem related to an EGR problem.
Mr, Ruger41: sorry ....
Good that you sell all those converters,, But you jumped the gun,, The entire exhaust system was changed on my truck and that is what triggered the O2 sensor, and made the light go on.There is actually not a damn thing wrong with the truck, I could reset the light but really no need to. Not a big deal..
Ahhh now see there COULD be the other problem. You replaced the entire exhaust system--did you put in a Bolt in kit that is like OE OR did you take it to a muffler shop who then replaced the system? Reason I ask is that on OBD2 vehicles MANY MANY times I've had some of my shops do exactly what you did to the truck except that they moved the REAR O2 sensor position in relation to the new catalytic converter. Many times these new cats are smaller in size than the OE and guys sometimes forget that you can only move the rear O2 a tiny bit in relation to the rear brick of the cat or it can set off the MIL light. There is also another possibility that happens quite a lot--shops are trying to save money so they buy the cheapest cats they can that are EPA legal--the EPA says they are legal to use but that doesn't mean they can meet the requirements of a particular car. The problem that you can run into with this is the EPA legal cat doesn't have enough precious metals to keep the MIL off. They should be using what is called OBD2 by design cats which have a much larger amount of precious metal including cerium which is an oxygen storer that holds O2 until the computer says it needs more o2 in the system to help burn off the harmful emissions. One last thing that also causes the MIL lights to go on is when guys change their systems and go too large on the exhaust--wouldn't be an issue with pre OBD2 vehicles but the new ones if a person goes from say a 2" system and have the shop put on a 3" it opens the system up so much that the rear 02's go bonkers. If you can live with the light on that is up to you but if it is an 02 that is bad it can eventually ruin your cat.
http://www.car-sound.com/04basics/04convBasics.asp