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Go-Kart Transmissions with Reverse

ZERODINZERODIN Member Posts: 6,338
edited June 2005 in General Discussion
Alright - I need some advice from the mechanics on the board. [:)]

Say you have a cable-gondola-thing of sorts. The starting and ending points are the same elevation so it doesn't have to go up a mountain or anything. It does have to climb the slack in the cable, though, so it needs some power.

The idea is to use a small gas engine, say 5hp or something else in the go-kart range. I was looking at go-kart torque converters and think they're the way to go as far as a transmission goes, because they give you the low-end torque but also speed as you throttle up along the cable.

The problem is that you have to go both directions on this thing. So I need a go-kart-size forward/reverse transmission that goes the same speed either direction. I was going to go engine-->torque-converter-->forward/reverse-->cable-wheel.

Does anyone know of a source for such a thing? The alternative is a five-pulley box with one pulley on a lever to hold against one of the two slip-belts to change direction, but I'm sure the board can come up with better than that. [:)]

Thanks.
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    MercuryMercury Member Posts: 7,809 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Still working on that river crossing thingy, eh? Good luck. I don't know anything about go-karts, sorry.


    Merc

    "You can get more with a kind word and a gun than you can with a kind word alone. " - Al Capone, (1899-1947)

    "Tolerating things you may not necessarily like is part of being free" - Larry Flynt
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    kingjoeykingjoey Member Posts: 8,636
    edited November -1
    Look for a Robin-Subaru golf cart engine, they operate in either direction.

    Love them Beavers
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    Tailgunner1954Tailgunner1954 Member Posts: 7,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'd look at a Fwd/N/Rev gearbox between the clutch and the cable. Try looking through the "Boston Gear" catalog.

    Whittemore
    Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.
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    CORRENCORREN Member Posts: 466 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Try a 5 horse moter with hydrolic pump with a small hydrolic motor.
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    rldowns3rldowns3 Member Posts: 6,096
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by CORREN
    Try a 5 horse moter with hydrolic pump with a small hydrolic motor.


    That's what my idea would have been. It'll give you the horsepower to climb and foward/reverse. It's a little more maintenance intensive though. If you don't want to do that, then look for an old ATV transmission that you could possibly retrofit if you are wanting to save a little cash.

    ______________________________________________________________
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    shoff14shoff14 Member Posts: 11,994 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by kingjoey
    Look for a Robin-Subaru golf cart engine, they operate in either direction.


    That would be my first choice of where I would look first.

    My second would be Yerfdog go-karts, the go karts you see at pep boys and wally world. They make an engine with a gearbox for reverse and forward. The only problem with them is that their costumer service has to be some of the worst of any company that I have ever had to deal with. Robin has great costumer service though.
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    cbxjeffcbxjeff Member Posts: 17,445 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Small Engine Distributors out of Kansas City has them. I've been buying gas engines from them for years.

    cbxjeff<P>It's too late for me, save yourself. <br>
    It's too late for me, save yourself.
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    ZERODINZERODIN Member Posts: 6,338
    edited November -1
    A golf cart drivetrain was another idea I had, but I have never torn a golf cart apart so I don't know how they work or what components they have. Is it just engine, centrifugal clutch, F/N/R tranny, and brake?

    A brake/lock system would also be nice so you don't roll down to the middle of the cable when you stop at either end. Right now you have to grab a wire off a post at the end and wrap it around the main bar of the car, and when someone tries to help you wrap it around the bar it ends up wrapped around the bar and your thumb together. That's kind of the main motivation on this upgrade, is to avoid lost digits. [B)]

    For those that remember: this is indeed for plains_scout's river crossing. He took me down to his ranch this weekend - amazing place but there has to be a better way to get across that river. [8D]
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    agloreaglore Member Posts: 6,012
    edited November -1
    Get one of the new Ski-Doo snowmobile engines with the reverse. All it does is slow the engine RPM's down enough to not do any damage as it then makes the engine go in the opposite direction for a reverse. Or you could just buy an electric start go-cart motor and then set it up to start the engine in the opposite direction for reverse.

    AlleninAlaska
    Delta Firearms & Supplies
    http://www.galleryofguns.com

    aglore@gci.net
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    cowdoccowdoc Member Posts: 5,847 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    how about an old rider lawn mower tranny used to have an o0ld rider that had one fwd and rev gear very simple and small would work for that kinda deal i think....dont have it anymore or id give it to you.
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    EVILDR235EVILDR235 Member Posts: 4,398 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a electric motor and a gear reduction box off of a wheel chair lift from a van made for handicapped people.The motor runs in both forward and reverse directions.It was too good to just throw away.I will use it for something.I saw a guy rig up a gondola to cross a creek.He used a electric winch off a truck and had a big weight hanging from a tree by a pulley to pull him back.He made a fricion brake to control his speed.
    EvilDr235

    Two types of people drive old cars.Rich people because they want to and poor people because they have to.
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    RUGERGUNZRUGERGUNZ Member Posts: 5,638 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I would go with the hydraulic unit. Very easy and simple, tons of torque, great speed selection. As long as the motor is running, you have a hydraulic brake by putting it in Nuetral.

    This is what I have in my outboard to haul traps. Expensive, but the whole kit is combined and can take a beating.

    http://www.hhs.ca/Products.asp?CategoryID=3

    I am running the 9HP unit, but 5HP is probably good for you.

    All you would need is hoses, control valve and the hydraulic motor. This kit has the motor, gas tank, hyd tank, hyd filter, all on a base and carry handle.

    NewRuger.jpg
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    hughbetchahughbetcha Member Posts: 7,801 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you travel through the back country in the Sierras you will see river crossings set up in cable cars that are hand-cranked. These cars are used when measuring the snowpack in winter/spring. These are just little glavanized steel boxes about five feet long with double-cranked pulleys. They are used to cross rivers hundreds of feet wide.
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    ZERODINZERODIN Member Posts: 6,338
    edited November -1
    RUGERGUNZ: What components do you need to get a fully-working system, and what is the output RPM on such a system? The locked-off hydraulic motor would probably be enough of a brake to hold the car still until you can tie it off on the end, but as you said the whole thing is pretty expensive.

    How about maintenance? I wouldn't want to find out halfway across that I needed a replacement part or anything.
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    kingjoeykingjoey Member Posts: 8,636
    edited November -1
    Here's another idea, how about a gas powered generator and an electic drive with gear reduction? Hydraulic would work too, but you're gonna need a pump, motor, and a directional valve, plus a relief valve to keep the thing from loosening your fillings every time you release the throttle

    Love them Beavers
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    ZERODINZERODIN Member Posts: 6,338
    edited November -1
    kj: I was thinking an electric system like that might work, but when it comes to cost I think that'd be almost as bad as the hydraulic drive idea. Good point about the filling-loosening you'd have without a little extra engineering, though. [:D][B)]

    So far I still think the best value would be a straight gas drive using the existing motor and a go-cart drivetrain with some kind of reverse (lawnmower reverse might do the trick) because it's just so cheap compared to the $2,000 hydraulic solution.
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    kingjoeykingjoey Member Posts: 8,636
    edited November -1
    Get a Grainger catalog and take a peek. If'n you guys go ahead with this project I'll head up there and take care of the engineering details. Don't want to hear any horror stories of a gondola catching fire out over the river or anything.

    Love them Beavers
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    ZERODINZERODIN Member Posts: 6,338
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Dennis Smith
    ZERODIN,

    That post by Plains Scout is still my all time favorite. I wish you guys would post some photos of the existing cable car setup.

    I promise not to post any more helicopter, or Indiana Jones bridge ideas.

    Indiana Jones bridge ideas are just fine for people. It's more the hunting rifles falling into the river that scare a guy. [;)]

    I took a couple pictures when I was down there, but they came out blurry from the rain. Since I'm so close for the summer, if Scout lets me visit him again I'll see if I can get some close-up shots of the cable car itself.

    Right now there are four controls: throttle, choke, clutch, and direction. The clutch is actually just a big lever attached to the engine, which is mounted on the floor by a hinge so you push the lever to lower the engine and tighten the drive belt. The direction control is the drive belt itself - you pull it off and put a twist in it, and throw it back on the engine pulley to go in reverse.

    The idea is to make it just slightly less primitive. Just slightly. [8D]
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    RUGERGUNZRUGERGUNZ Member Posts: 5,638 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    The components needed are the Hydraulic Hauling System powerpack that is in the link I showed you. A Control Valve. 4 Hydraulic hoses, and a hydraulic motor.

    This will propel you across faster than you would ever need. The pump is matched to the Honda motor. But you can vary the torque or speed by the Hydraulic motor that you need.

    Very rugged and maintenance free unit. Mine has been used HARD in a saltwater environment for close to 4 years. I have it hooked to a Char-Lyn hydraulic motor that is running a Split wheel hauler. It hauls very fast and can easily put a 19 foot boat underwater.

    The largest cost is the powerpack, but it is self-contained and very well built.

    NewRuger.jpg
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    ZERODINZERODIN Member Posts: 6,338
    edited November -1
    RUGERGUNZ: What is your recommendation as far as making the starting and stopping a little smoother than hydraulics regularly afford...a speed control or "throttle" so to speak?
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    kingjoeykingjoey Member Posts: 8,636
    edited November -1
    Plumb an accumulator into the line, it'll take up the surge when you engage the hydraulics. Really easy to hook up, I think I have a nitrogen kit for charging them if it's a gas over hydraulic setup

    Love them Beavers
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    RUGERGUNZRUGERGUNZ Member Posts: 5,638 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I will try to find out exactly what kind of valve we use for hauling, it makes for very easy smooth starts and stops. I always thought it was just a three position spool.

    It is a handle that you turn clockwise and counterclockwise. The more you turn the handle the faster it goes.

    The power pack has a throttle control for the honda engine. So you can throttle the engine up or down to and also control speed.

    NewRuger.jpg
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    Queen of SwordsQueen of Swords Member Posts: 14,355
    edited November -1
    I'll refer you to rcrx. I can't guarantee he'll get bact to you too soon, as he plans on spending the evening in his garage getting our 2 boys go-karts ready for racing on Friday.

    Everyone is somebody's "weirdo".
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    ZERODINZERODIN Member Posts: 6,338
    edited November -1
    kj: Rugergunz's site doesn't seem to have accumulators. How about this unit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3835792376&category=67072

    It all seems pretty expensive but may be the best solution. I'm still shopping for reverser gears out of lawn mowers, though. [:)]

    I did find this hydraulic pump/tank assembly. Could you use the existing engine and save some major bank with it? http://www.hhs.ca/Details.asp?HeaderID=51
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    kingjoeykingjoey Member Posts: 8,636
    edited November -1
    Yeah, that unit on e-bay is a gas over hydraulic accumulator. Call Grainger and get a catalog, they have excellent prices and al sorts of hydraulic stuff for oddball creations. You might try Northwest Equipment too. For such a light application you could probably use a 5-8hp motor and a belt driven automotive power steering pump to drive the unit. It wouldn't have as high of top speed but you could probably sub out the the accumulator and only run a relief valve.

    Love them Beavers
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    RUGERGUNZRUGERGUNZ Member Posts: 5,638 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Zerodin, you wont need an accumulator. Trust me on that.


    Here is a parts list for you

    Power Pack
    http://www.hhs.ca/Details.asp?HeaderID=32
    Get #126-11

    Control Valve
    http://www.hhs.ca/Products.asp?CategoryID=7
    Get rotary valve #410

    Hydraulic Motor
    http://www.hhs.ca/Products.asp?CategoryID=5
    Char-Lynn #101-1003(Speed) or #101-1004(Torque) I would go with more torque for your application.


    Get the hydraulic hoses made up at most big garages or hardware stores. A good idea would be quick disconnects on the power pack connections. That way you could remove it for servicing or to keep others from using the lift, or taking the motor.

    NewRuger.jpg
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    ZERODINZERODIN Member Posts: 6,338
    edited November -1
    Ruger: How about the #400 valve, so if you fall out of the car into the river it doesn't keep going until it hits the end of the cable and breaks itself?

    Removing the hose is a good idea - one reason Scout's place is so nice is because of how hard it is to get there. [:)]

    I think it'd still be nice to have some kind of speed control, though, not only to prevent rough starts and stops but also to control the speed more carefully if it's windy or whatever. Does the valve (#410 or #400, or any other) have a smooth enough cutoff to control the speed by how far you push the lever?

    I really appreciate all the responses so far. Scout and I were talking about making that thing safer and it came up how many redneck (as in "hey, y'all, watch this!") subjects you can get a good answer on by asking here. [:D]
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    RUGERGUNZRUGERGUNZ Member Posts: 5,638 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    The reason you dont need an accumulator is that there is a built in relief system on the valve that I listed for you. There is no hydraulic jump using these type of valves.

    When the valve is in nuetral there is 100% bypass back to the reservoir tank. As the rotary handle is turned, the percentage to the motor increases incrementally until 100%. Same for reverse, so the speed in forward and reverse is the same.

    NewRuger.jpg
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    cntrmasscntrmass Member Posts: 395 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Not quite about your topic but check out this go cart.This thing is powered by a Suzuki GSZR-750 motor and it SSSSCCCCRRRREEEEAAMMMMS!!.You have to scan down a little but the video will play itself when you take the link.http://www.dumpalink.com/media/1114076716
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    RUGERGUNZRUGERGUNZ Member Posts: 5,638 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think the #400 Valve would work fine probably better for your uses.

    With this setup you would actually have two speed controls.

    The first is the Honda Engine. There is a slide throttle. From dead slow to wide open.

    The second is the Valve. It is very smooth as to the cutoff. You can get it to turn the motor only a few RPM's to the wide open value.

    You can adjust either of these on the fly. You could idle the Honda, slowly open the valve, and then adjust speed by the Honda.

    Or how we do it. Open the honda up 1/2 throttle or more and adjust speed by the valve.



    NewRuger.jpg
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    ZERODINZERODIN Member Posts: 6,338
    edited November -1
    Ruger: Cool. Out there, the way to do it would be to get the engine running smoothly at 1/2-3/4 throttle and then use the hydraulics to control the car.

    The way I'm reading the numbers is that, at wide-open the power unit will give 5gpm flow, and the motors are each rated at 15gpm so I can take the rpm listed for each and divide by 3 to get what we'd be seeing. That is 115rpm for the slower motor and 190rpm for the faster one. I'll have to find out what the radius is on the wheels that hang over the cable and see what kind of reduction belts are already on there to find out how fast an rpm is on that sucker.

    What do you think of Northern Tool's hydraulics? They have 2-stage, 11gpm pumps for around $100. See http://tinyurl.com/7vl4p.
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    RUGERGUNZRUGERGUNZ Member Posts: 5,638 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Never tried any of Northern Tools products.

    Never heard of the Haldex brand around here in a boat either, doesnt mean it isnt any good, just not used in lobsterboats.

    I dont think you would need a two-stage pump though.


    Are you considering building your own type of powerpack? It is hard to make a compact one out of parts. You would probably have to go to a belt drive, the big problem about them is slippage. Hard to get the motor and pump to not slip. Used to have that type. The one on the links I showed was for a Direct Drive using a Love-Joy type of connector.

    NewRuger.jpg
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    ZERODINZERODIN Member Posts: 6,338
    edited November -1
    A belt drive wouldn't be so bad, I don't think. The idea with making your own power pack would be to save money, especially since there is already a good gas engine on the thing. But it'd be hard to beat the "it just works" and compact nature of a prebuilt power pack.
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    RUGERGUNZRUGERGUNZ Member Posts: 5,638 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you are planning on making your own

    For a pump this is a good one

    http://www.hhs.ca/Products.asp?CategoryID=6
    Parker Gear Pumps #302-11 or #305-11

    Also on the same page is pump brackets.

    You would either want 041-11 or 081-11



    Next you would have to figure out what pulley's you would use, you can get basically any ratio to make even more torque or speed. Staright one to one is easiest though.


    But I would go with this motor, not much more than the Northern Tool one.

    NewRuger.jpg
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    kingjoeykingjoey Member Posts: 8,636
    edited November -1
    Yep, Parker makes good pumps

    Love them Beavers
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    RUGERGUNZRUGERGUNZ Member Posts: 5,638 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Here is another link to a similar power pack made by a well-known reputable company in Maine.

    http://www.hydroslave.com/power_pack.html


    I have the the other companies model, this link is to an imitator but it may be much cheaper, they dont list a price though.

    NewRuger.jpg
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    ZERODINZERODIN Member Posts: 6,338
    edited November -1
    Here are some pictures of the car in action:

    cablecar1.jpg

    cablecar2.jpg

    cablecar3.jpg

    In the last photo, you can see the control lever that tilts the gas engine sticking up above it to the right a bit in the photo, and you can see the belt with a twist in it for the return journey, going up to a pully. That pully drives another small one which drives a larger one again to reduce the drive speed delivered to the car wheel that run on the cable itself. I cut off the top of the car on the second and third photos, but you can see the two wheels that ride on the cable in the first picture.

    That's Plains Scout trying to operate the crazy thing.
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    plains scoutplains scout Member Posts: 4,563
    edited November -1
    Hey I resemble that last remark.[:D]

    Mrs. Plains in outdoor clothing and friend of mine riding along. Raining cats and dogs.

    It is a moving finger amputation machine is my worry. I try to always wear gloves so if I lose a finger we can find it in the glove (had a friend do that roping a cow two years ago)[:0]

    It is a crazy contraption. We need to tighten the cable up this summer. Sagging a little. When all is going right it zings across that river. Bottom is starting to rot out I hope to find some light steal mess to put in the bottom.

    The hinged motor clutch apparatus is true backwoods engineering. Amazing what you can do with a barn door hinge. The belt keeps flying off if everything is not tensioned just right.

    Zerodin had his firt ride on the circus car and obviously it has had an effect[:D] We use to have a drive across crossing but an oil company riprapped their pipeline and it caused an effect that washed the crossing away. I am tightening the noose on them for this.

    I really like some of these ideas being thrown around here.

    Of course the "high" point of the cable is two. At each end and if you don't brake by holding the "clutch" back tight it slides back to the middle of the river. This can cause major panic for those weak of heart.[}:)]

    Switching the belt to put a twist in it to reverse and ride back is the main problem along with braking.

    The old rancher that built this thing hauled his kids across this to take them to school. Zerodin is right. One of the best features of the River Ghost Ranch is it is difficult to get to. Across that river behind that gate is the woods of which "Sanctuary" where we maintain about 25 acres of thick woods that no one gets to hunt in, including us.

    If we cannot cross by ATV we either canoe or take the cable car.

    Living in the fast lane I guess.[:D]







    My friend is one... who takes me for what I am.
    Henry David Thoreau

    "If you do not allow yourself to find a positive way to get through the difficult times, you will become bitter. If you stay bitter, you do not get better." -- Joan Brock
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    plains scoutplains scout Member Posts: 4,563
    edited November -1
    quote:I'll have to find out what the radius is on the wheels that hang over the cable and see what kind of reduction belts are already on there to find out how fast an rpm is on that sucker.



    I think the top wheel is a 15" tire rim. The bottom ones I don't know, but will measure so we can get the engineering right.

    Oh by the way, beside it most likely amputating a few fingers in the past (just my suspicion)the only accident is one that our neighbor still talks about the time the cable broke when he and a lady were crossing at night. He said there were overloaded. I know the women and the were not over loaded, just loaded to the gills with a little of that good old mountain dew[;)]
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    texaswildmantexaswildman Member Posts: 2,215 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Hey Plains/Zerodin - great to see that thing up and running. i meant to stop at the Wolf Creek Ranch crossing on the little Mo' two weeks ago when i was up there and look at theirs (it is just north of the Franks Creek Road) to see how it operated. but unfortunately (or fortunately since it was for rain) the river was way up so we didn't attempt to cross and drove around through the park and back up the east river road from the west side. i hope to get back up there in a few weeks and i'll try to look and take pictures if i do.

    Sorry i didn't get to stop and buy you a cup this time, but i had others with me and we were cutting things thin. Maybe we can meet and play a round at the Arnegard golf course! haha.

    BTW - i do not think you are allowed to change the river or waterway contour or flow pattern in a crossing - as per the US Army corp of engineers regs. Might check their permit in Bismarck - or offer to. i would bet it is not to spec. and it might make them more "cooperative" in your venture or "add a little rosin" to your noose.

    I am ..... gone huntin'
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