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New Vehicle-What Brand of Engine Oil???

Spring CreekSpring Creek Member Posts: 1,260
edited August 2002 in General Discussion
Went out and bought me a new hunting vehicle yesterday.
Have had two Chevy Tahoes and just had to have another one.
Make one fine hunting, fishing and towing SUV.
Presently: in my wife's care we use Quaker State, in my pickup I use Mobil and in my Ex-Tahoe I used Valvoline.
Now my question to you, my fine fellow GB members (and this will be official GB oil for my new Tahoe) is WHAT oil do you recommend.
All "positive" feedback and "horror" stories are appreciated.
Like I say, this will be what I use and I Thank You All!!!!
«1

Comments

  • leadlead Member Posts: 2,311 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Asking about brands of oil is like asking about trucks. Ford, Chevy, Dodge, They all make good stuff, and all have die-hard fans. Check your owners manual and use the weight they recommend. Change it every three thousand miles, especially if you are driving down dusty, dirty roads, and avoid the cheap store brands of oils that don't have all the same additives the good brands put in to improve the oil's performance. By the way, I have alot of mechanics tell me to steer clear of oil additives like Slick 50, and the other similar brands out there. Most name brand oils are made so well today, if you just change your oil and filter like you should they will protect your engine as well as can be expected. Oh, and for the record, I use Valvoline.

    Car sickness is the feeling you get when you send in the monthly payment.
  • VarmintmistVarmintmist Member Posts: 1,074 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    What reasons do they give for staying away from slick 50???? Ive put it in the last 5 vehicals I've owned. Traded 1 at 147000, another at 198000, and had to upgrade the SUV to a van when the wife bred again so it went at 75000. It DOES make a difference in gas mileage and you can tell the difference when you start it, less resistance, spins faster, starts quicker. That is by ear, but it is noticable. Pennzoil or vavoline, castrol if its on sale.

    Those people who see nothing but grey areas, no black and white, are lost in the fog.
  • NighthawkNighthawk Member Posts: 12,022 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Congratulations,I to have a Tahoe and love it all except fuel consumption.Go with Havoline 10W-30.

    Best!!

    Rugster


    Toujours Pret
  • leadlead Member Posts: 2,311 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    About Slick 50, I have been told it can help old engines, it is useful in cold weather, and it doesn't hurt. But I have had alot of mechanics tell me that if people would change their oil like they should it doesn't really help enough to justify the cost. I'm not a mechanic but I have a Ford Escort with 173,000 miles on it and I don't use anything but good oil. Four quarts of oil are alot cheaper than one quart of Slick 50.

    Car sickness is the feeling you get when you send in the monthly payment.
  • v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    On a new engine, use the thinnest high quality Pennsylvania motor oil
    the specs call for.
    An engine rebuilder told me recently he's not particular about brand but changes his oil at 1000-1500 miles and gets very long life.
  • TOOLS1TOOLS1 Member Posts: 6,133
    edited November -1
    I have to go with rugster. I use Havoline 10-40 in the Toolhauler. It has over 180,000 MI. Change it every 3,000 MI. Runs like new, Dosent smoke or even leak.
    I started useing it when I was working on a car once for a friend. He had someone change the water pump and thay broke a hole in the aluminum timeing chan cover. When I removed it and the oil pan thay were as clean as new ones. This car had 125,000 mi on it. He had used Havoline since it was new. I had never seen one so clean. It made a beliver out of me. By the way the dirtyest engines I have worked on used Quaker state.
    TOOLS
  • thelaresterthelarester Member Posts: 22 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I was a mechanic for 14 years and I can honestly say that if you change your oil every 3,000 miles and use good quality parts, that is sufficient. The friction points are all metal so it is either lubricated, or not lubricated. That simple.

    The only place where additives would make a difference would relate to an automatic transmission which has rubber seals internally that can wear out easily or harden with age/temperature. In this case there are additives that can prolong the life of the rubber.

    Support the US, our economy as well as the 2nd amendment, buy a gun !
  • IconoclastIconoclast Member Posts: 10,515 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Spring Creek, I've changed my own oil for 30 years, always use something like "Gunk" to clean out, always let it drain for several hours to get every last drip of the old s***, try hard to do it every 3K miles or less. I use *whatever* brand name is on sale. I've had 4x4s & regular vehicles die of rust (usually - in NH they spend several months a year on salted roads) or accident damage, but that's it, never had a motor problem. Plenty of dirt / gravel roadways, muddy tracks for hunting / fishing trips. Present vehicles have 198K, 167K & 78K miles. I don't think it matters as long as you use a quality product and replace it frequently.
  • njretcopnjretcop Member Posts: 7,975
    edited November -1
    My car is so new that I'm still using baby oil in it.

    Charlie

    "It's the stuff dreams are made of Angel"NRA Certified Firearms InstructorMember: GOA, RKBA, NJSPBA, NJ area rep for the 2ndAMPD. njretcop@copmail.com
  • LowriderLowrider Member Posts: 6,587
    edited November -1
    I'm a solid believer in synthetic oil. I also like, and have used for years, Castrol motor oil. I'm getting ready to fire up a brand new (rebuilt) engine in my Dodge pickup and here's what I plan to do. Break it in with Castrol GTX 10W40 (regular petroleum oil) for 10,000 miles and then switch over to Castrol Syntec 10W40 (full synthetic oil).

    You'll get as many different opinions on motor oil as you would if you asked "what is your favorite gun/caliber/brand of ammo/food/etc? I know what works for me and I'll keep doing it.

    By the way, I use Amsoil 20W50 synthetic motorcycle oil in my Harley.

    Lord Lowrider the LoquaciousMember:Secret Select Society of Suave Stylish Smoking Jackets She was only a fisherman's daughter,But when she saw my rod she reeled.
  • nunnnunn Forums Admins, Member, Moderator Posts: 36,085 ******
    edited November -1
    Among the top brands, I don't think it matters a bit. More important is to use a viscosity recommended by the manufacturer. MOST IMPORTANT is frequency of changes. My vehicles get their oil changed religiously at 3,000 miles. I some cases, this means once a month, but I get long and trouble free service out of them.

    I, too, like Slick 50, but not in a new engine. Wait until it wears in a bit, maybe 12,000 miles.



    SIG pistol armorer/FFL Dealer/Full time Peace Officer, Moderator of General Discussion Board on Gunbroker. Visit www.gunbroker.com, the best gun auction site on the Net! Email davidnunn@texoma.net
  • BoomerangBoomerang Member Posts: 4,513
    edited November -1
    In use Valvoline 10w30 Full Synthetic. So far so good.

    Boomer

    "Success is to be measured not so much by the position that one has reached in life as it is by the obstacles which one has overcome while trying to succeed."NRA Life Member
  • ED PED P Member Posts: 190 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you live in a cold climate, synthetic oil in the winter will make a huge difference. Stays as viscous as if it was 80 degrees out, even if it's -10.

    I use regular oil most of the year, but from Dec. through Feb use full synthetic.
  • JudgeColtJudgeColt Member Posts: 1,790 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    This is one of those great topics to which there is no "right" answer.

    Consumer Reports tested all oils in taxi service and found few differences in engine wear after 60,000 miles. It also found no value to Slick 50. The claims of Slick 50 have been subject to FCC sanctions and law suits.

    I was disappointed in the Consumer Reports test because it did not deal with severe service, like towing at very high temperatures. There I think synthetic oil is far superior. (Remember the Mobil 1 advertisement where Mobil 1 and a mineral oil are both heated in frying pans? The mineral oil turns to tar, while the Mobil 1 remains liquid.) For normal serivce, changing mineral oil at short intervals is probably fine for most engines.

    It is significant to me that very high performance cars (Corvette, Ferrari, etc.) come from the factory with Mobil 1 in them. It is "slicker" and will lubricate at much higher temperatures without breaking down.

    I have used Mobil 1 in everything for decades, and have run many engines on it to over 200,000 miles with no apparent change in function. I change it every 7,000 to 10,000 miles, depending on the season.

    Next.
  • CAndres35CAndres35 Member Posts: 453 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I KNOW A LOT OF YOU ARE GOING TO DISAGREE BUT I THINK CHANGING YOUR OIL EVERY 3000 IS A LOT OF BUNK. I CHANGE MY OIL FILTER ABOUT EVERY 10000 AND MY OIL ABOUT EVERY 100,000 MILES. I HAVE A DODGE 1500 RAM WITH 155000 AND A 87 LINCOLN WITH 140.000. THE LINCOLN HAS NOT HAD THE OIL CHANGED SCINCE I GOT IT WITH 42000 AND MY DODGE HAS HAD ONE OIL CHANGE. I USE A GOOD GRADE OF OIL VALVOLINE 10/30 AND HAVE NO PROBLEMS. IF I WERE RUNNING IN A LOT OF DUST OR SAND I WOULD CHANGE THE FILTER MORE OFTEN. carl
  • BlokeyBlokey Member Posts: 284 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've used synthetic oil for years, I'm absolutely sold on it. I use Amsoil, changing the oil twice a year. I also use Gunk solvent to keep the motor internals clean, letting the oil drain for >30 min. to let all the oil drain out.
    Haven't had an engine problem yet and my highest mileage vehicle (126K) doesn't leak or burn oil and judging by the inside of the valve covers, is spotless on the inside too.
  • RugerNinerRugerNiner Member Posts: 12,636 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Lowrider used up all my words. Everything he said. If your vehicle is old and smoking use Castrol straight 30 WT.

    Remember...Terrorist are attacking Civilians; Not the Government. Protect Yourself!
    Keep your Powder dry and your Musket well oiled.
    NRA Lifetime Benefactor Member.
  • rameleni1rameleni1 Member Posts: 998 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    First off, synthetic oil is great. The problem is moisture, and acids that build up, and ruin engine parts. With syn, the recommended change intervals are too high. The oil is still good, but has moisture, and acids. There are also carbon build up, and metal shavings from a new engine. They must be removed. If you can afford syn, and change at 3k miles, do it. Imho, as a mechanic, its not worth it. Almost all new car man, use 5w30. The reason for this is lack of oil at startup. 90% of all engine wear is at engine startup, when the oil is in the pan. The thinner oil, moves quickly to prevent oil starvation, thats the only reason for the ligher viscosity. After 100k I would switch to 10w30. The reason for this is bearing wear, and needing of a thicker oil. I would use Quakerstate 5w30, and change at 3k, or less, depending on your budget.

    Rameleni1
  • competentonecompetentone Member Posts: 4,696 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    What Iconoclast said--let the oil drain for a long time.

    I literally let mine drain overnight. My brother told me to do this (try it, it will convince you to let it drip):

    Drain out the oil as you normally do, then move the pan and put a fresh pan under it. Let it continue to drip for 8 to 10 hours. (If out doors, you can loosely thread the drain-plug in to prevent any dust from getting in the motor. Look closely at these last few tablespoons of oil that drip-out during this extended draining period--it'll convince you to do this everytime.
  • LowriderLowrider Member Posts: 6,587
    edited November -1
    CAndres: I believe ANY engine will run 100,000 without an oil change, but they damn sure won't run 200,000 or 300,000 miles. Pull one apart sometime that hasn't had regular oil changes and you won't believe the sludge inside.

    I helped a friend tear down a 351 Ford engine that hadn't had the oil changed for the last 25,000 of the 110,000 miles that were on it. The build-up inside the lifter valley and inside the pan looked just like tar. And on each side of the lifter valley, in the center, where the intake manifold exhaust cross-over is situated, the old oil had cooked up and crystalized just like petroleum coke.

    Then I recently tore down the 318 in my 1987 Dodge pickup. I bought the truck new, have run nothing but Castrol GTX 10W40 in it, and have 105,000 miles on it, with oil and filter changes every 3000 miles or sooner. The inside of the engine looked brand new. No sludge, no baked-on crud and virtually no wear in the cylinder bores, lifter bores or the crankshaft. Comparing my engine to the sludged-up 351 Ford shows me the real difference between regular and not-so-regular oil changes.

    Lord Lowrider the LoquaciousMember:Secret Select Society of Suave Stylish Smoking Jackets She was only a fisherman's daughter,But when she saw my rod she reeled.
  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    I don't feel that brand matters, so long as it meets API and viscosity ratings for your engine. So far as changing goes, I feel that:

    Oil companies recommend changing every 3000 miles.
    Car companies recommend changing every 3000 miles for hard conditions or every 7500 for easier, highway conditions.

    Oil companies are in the business to sell oil.
    Car companies are in the business to sell cars.
    No one drives exclusively on the highway or in the city.
    Therefore I change my oil every 4-5000 miles and with the car edging 100k have had no trouble whatsoever with the engine, only with mufflers, hoses, shocks, etc.

    "...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conf
  • pickenuppickenup Member Posts: 22,844 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You are supposed to change the oil??? Somebody should have told me. I thought you just added more when it was low. Valvoline 10-30 here.

    If I knew then, what I know now.
  • kgnovumkgnovum Member Posts: 594 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Lots of good advise above! New engines are shipped out with non-detergent, no additive mineral oil in them and this should be run for several thousand miles to seat the piston rings to the cylinder walls (see the owner's manual for mileage). If regular oil is added too soon, the cylinder walls will "glaze" and the rings will not seat, causing loss of compression and engine efficiency. After the break-in period, use the oil recommended by the mfr. but you can change it less often than recommended. There have been several studies done comparing internal wear of engine components with oil change intervals ranging from 1000 to 7500 miles between changes and the difference was negligible. The additives such as Slick 50 and others do seem to help with internal engine friction and certainly won't hurt any modern engine, but they should be applied only after the initial break-in period.
  • E.WilliamsE.Williams Member Posts: 1,101 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I figure I'll go ahead and put my nomination in too.Castrol GTX and if you like synthetic oil Castrol Syntec or Syntec Blend.

    Eric S. Williams
  • djcissedjcisse Member Posts: 69 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have 245,000 miles on my truck and I use Vavoline, and a friend of mine has 340,000 on his and he uses Quaker State(both gas burners). We both use Lucas oil additive and can tell a difference. I have used it in old diesel power units and drasticaly cut down on oil consumption. On our diesel motors (power units and tractors) we use Rotella.
  • bartobarto Member Posts: 4,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    as an aside here the last boat i fished on had a b/w alpha diesel that had an oil-change frequency of 240 hrs.
    after we installed a 24 hr. a day centrifuge on it the oil change interval went to 5400 hr. (1 season)
    this extracted roughly 10 pounds of carbon, etc per day.
    just a little food for thought.
    barto

    the hard stuff we do right away - the impossible takes a little longer
  • idsman75idsman75 Member Posts: 13,398 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    When I bought my little pickup ('99 Toyota Tacoma 4WD 2.7L engine) I used what the factory used. I changed it out regularly with Castrol GTX 5W30. After 20,000 miles I switched to a Castrol synthetic blend in 5W30. After 30,000 miles I went straight to Mobile 1 Tri-Synthetic 5W30. I currently have 45,000 miles on it and plan to continue using this oil. My father drives full-size trucks for work. He's a sales rep and his primary customer is the midwest farmer. He delivers generators all over the midwest after he picks them up from the manufacturer in Minnesota. If you are dealing with the midwest farmer you have to get some good face-time with them so he does the delivery along with making the sale. He is completely sold on synthetic oil and encouraged me to do the same. I'll let y'all know what I think after 150,000 miles.

    For those of you that use "GUNK", when would you recommend that I start using it and how often? A mechanic back in Nebraska recommended it after about 80K miles.

    Here's another question. Are premium sparkplugs (i.e. BOSCH Platinum 4+) really worth it? Is there a performance difference? My owner's manual doesn't recommend changing out the spark plugs until 75K miles. Other people say I should do it annually. What's the deal on spark plugs?
  • quamnetquamnet Member Posts: 332 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I use Quaker State Full Synthetic in mine........works great for me.
  • loader44loader44 Member Posts: 92 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    If I could add mtcw.
    I have allways used "castrol", my suburban is in the shop for the FIRST time since buying it in 85, it is a 4x4 with a 350, when the engine died last week, it had, 317000 miles on it, the trans went last year, but the engine lasted another 40k. Yes, the chevy went 317k. Have allways changed oil every 3000 miles, nomatter what.

    How about them apples.

    loader44.
  • IconoclastIconoclast Member Posts: 10,515 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    idsman, I have heard conflicting stories on the "when" of using motor cleaners. Some claim you should not introduce them after a certain period because there will be a build-up of residues on some surfaces and the motor tolerances have shaped themselves to that reality, so that if they are removed there will be excess tolerances. I do know I've used this in every vehicle I've owned, new or used, in every oil change, for 30+ years and have yet to have a motor wear out. But I do change the oil pretty religiously and always allow it to drain 4 - 36 hours. I did have one motor torn down some years ago because a member of my household wanted to "improve" it - the mechanic who assisted him said the interior looked new and it had 160K miles on it at the time. Unfortunately, after the "improvements" it didn't make 170K, but that's another story!
  • The firearms consultantThe firearms consultant Member Posts: 716 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Every 3000 miles may be alot of bunk. The only thing I can say is I have changed my oil every 3000 miles with a new factory filter and my, shall I say it, my 1987 Toyota 4x4 has 230000 on it without a single engine problem. I use Castrol GTX 20w50. It doesn't get very cold here on the central coast of Kalifornia. It works for me.
    John

    I might not always tell you the truth, but I will never lie to you!
  • poshposh Member Posts: 360 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    My 81 Ford 250 with a straight 6 engine developed a startup knock at about 90,000 miles (About 5 years ago). I used Slick 50 according to their reccs and the knock hasn't come back. I've now gone to Mobil 1 for my 94 Lincoln - 132k with no problems. Regards, posh.
  • offerorofferor Member Posts: 8,625 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've also had mechanics tell me that once you start using additives like STP or Slick 50, you need to keep using them. But some mechanics just shake their heads knowingly, like you're getting ripped off and they don't want to call you a dope.

    I've also heard about synthentic oils that once you go to them you should stay on them.

    I like Castrol GTX. Comes in 10-30, 10-40, and if you need it, 10-50. It's not too bad by the case at discount stores. But usually my car is serviced at the dealer and they put in what they please. Some cars specify the weight, by the way, so don't mess around with odd weights unless you know what you're doing. Some cars need plain 30 to run right.

    - Life NRA Member
    "If cowardly & dishonorable men shoot unarmed men with army guns, the evil must be prevented by the penitentiary...and not by general deprivation of constitutional privilege." - Arkansas Supreme Court, 1878
  • Spring CreekSpring Creek Member Posts: 1,260
    edited November -1
    Hey everybody, thanks for all the comments.
    But Offeror, you just brought up a good point or question?
    You mention buying oil at the discounts stores.
    I've heard that they put there oil needs up for bids and the oils they in turn sell, may not have all the additives, etc. that you would find in the "same" brand oil at say NAPA or PepBoys.
    Anybody heard of this?
    Thanks
  • Hunter4lifeHunter4life Member Posts: 45 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Valvoline is the way to go.
    Never use synthetic on a new vehicle...wait
    20,000 miles so engine breaks in properly.
    Synthetic is too slippery for proper break-in.
    And stay away from synthetic blends, and
    pennziol!!

    Hunter
  • daddodaddo Member Posts: 3,408
    edited November -1
    The fact that we are told to use regular mineral oils for the first 10,000 miles to allow the engine to break in first, before using a synthetic oil should tell you something. The "gunk" buildup in engines is the wax and carbons in mineral oils- so
    mething you won't get with a "real" synthetic oil. I say "real", because the major oil companies don't make true synthetics- they super refine mineral oils to minimal synthetic values. Regular oils should be good for 5,000 miles if used with a mobil-1 filter. Mobil-1 filters filter out down to microns.
    Amsoil is the only true synthetic on the market and depending on the type you use- you can go 12,500 miles or 35,000 between oil changes,changing the amsoil filter at 6 to 17,500 miles without moisture problems.(Every six months or 1-year oil change, which ever comes first).
    I see vehicles running 300,000 miles just fine. I use nothing but Amsoil oil and filters. Gas mileage goes up, overheating is no problem and the oil won't break down.
    The 0-30w is my favorite.
    As far as friction values you see on TV with "slick 50", "power up", and all the other"junk", You can pour bleach on the friction tester and it will do better than any of those so-called additives. "Bleach/chlorine" in your engine? Thats what some of the additives have in them.
    Use good "true" synthetics and you need no additives.
    Long ago, I used "duralube" in my engine and at 5,000 miles, when I drained the oil- I got thick globs of junk out of the pan- FORGET THAT!
  • KX500KX500 Member Posts: 733 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'm pretty much in agreement with the 'buy a good quality oil and change it and the filter every 3,000 to 5,000 miles depending on your driving conditions".

    However on the subject of synthetics. I always figured they gave your engine a little better protection but never could really decide if they were worth the price, I mean quantifing how much better engine protection your getting is not easy. Anyway, I used to use them.

    However, I work for a company that primarily manufactures valve covers and cam covers. We do a lot of testing of these valve cover & gasket assemblies to show the customers (OEMs) that they are good and won't leak for a long time. The oil that we are told to use is a synthetic (Mobil 1 or equal) - because it is the hardest on gaskets, breaks them down the fastest. Basically if our cover assemblies can stand a synthetic oil like Mobil 1, then they are certainly good for normal oils.

    So yes, synthetics are probably best for the metal parts in your engine. The gaskets, hmmmm......

    The bill to change the oil pan gasket in our Taurus a couple years back was a little under $ 200, and yes I'd used synthetics in that car. Maybe a coincedence, but since I was on the fence anyway, I don't use synthetics anymore.
  • RugerNinerRugerNiner Member Posts: 12,636 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I thought there was a class action Lawsuit against Slick 50.
    http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/9707/slick.htm
    http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/9607/slick.htm
    http://skepdic.com/slick50.html

    Remember...Terrorist are attacking Civilians; Not the Government. Protect Yourself!
    Keep your Powder dry and your Musket well oiled.
    NRA Lifetime Benefactor Member.
  • Richie RichRichie Rich Member Posts: 439 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am with daddo on this as I only use amsoil in my diesel Excursion, it has a dual remote by-pass filter system. Change the main filter at 6 months then the by-pass when it is hotter than the main or 1 year.I use 5w30 (series 3000) and with this setup you can go over 100k on the same oil, the key to all this is to have the oil analized by the lab (about 14 bucks) this tells all the info on what the oil is doing and what is in it. The prblem with amsoil is the oil companys don't want you to have this product so they say all they can to discredit it but, the facts are the facts. go to www.amsoil.com and read for yourself

    Remember,"your woman may not find you handsome, But atleast she'll find ya handy". I love that show..............
  • idsman75idsman75 Member Posts: 13,398 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    How 'bout them spark plugs?
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