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New Vehicle-What Brand of Engine Oil???
Spring Creek
Member Posts: 1,260 ✭
Went out and bought me a new hunting vehicle yesterday.
Have had two Chevy Tahoes and just had to have another one.
Make one fine hunting, fishing and towing SUV.
Presently: in my wife's care we use Quaker State, in my pickup I use Mobil and in my Ex-Tahoe I used Valvoline.
Now my question to you, my fine fellow GB members (and this will be official GB oil for my new Tahoe) is WHAT oil do you recommend.
All "positive" feedback and "horror" stories are appreciated.
Like I say, this will be what I use and I Thank You All!!!!
Have had two Chevy Tahoes and just had to have another one.
Make one fine hunting, fishing and towing SUV.
Presently: in my wife's care we use Quaker State, in my pickup I use Mobil and in my Ex-Tahoe I used Valvoline.
Now my question to you, my fine fellow GB members (and this will be official GB oil for my new Tahoe) is WHAT oil do you recommend.
All "positive" feedback and "horror" stories are appreciated.
Like I say, this will be what I use and I Thank You All!!!!
Comments
Car sickness is the feeling you get when you send in the monthly payment.
Those people who see nothing but grey areas, no black and white, are lost in the fog.
Best!!
Rugster
Toujours Pret
Car sickness is the feeling you get when you send in the monthly payment.
the specs call for.
An engine rebuilder told me recently he's not particular about brand but changes his oil at 1000-1500 miles and gets very long life.
I started useing it when I was working on a car once for a friend. He had someone change the water pump and thay broke a hole in the aluminum timeing chan cover. When I removed it and the oil pan thay were as clean as new ones. This car had 125,000 mi on it. He had used Havoline since it was new. I had never seen one so clean. It made a beliver out of me. By the way the dirtyest engines I have worked on used Quaker state.
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The only place where additives would make a difference would relate to an automatic transmission which has rubber seals internally that can wear out easily or harden with age/temperature. In this case there are additives that can prolong the life of the rubber.
Support the US, our economy as well as the 2nd amendment, buy a gun !
Charlie
"It's the stuff dreams are made of Angel"NRA Certified Firearms InstructorMember: GOA, RKBA, NJSPBA, NJ area rep for the 2ndAMPD. njretcop@copmail.com
You'll get as many different opinions on motor oil as you would if you asked "what is your favorite gun/caliber/brand of ammo/food/etc? I know what works for me and I'll keep doing it.
By the way, I use Amsoil 20W50 synthetic motorcycle oil in my Harley.
Lord Lowrider the LoquaciousMember:Secret Select Society of Suave Stylish Smoking Jackets She was only a fisherman's daughter,But when she saw my rod she reeled.
I, too, like Slick 50, but not in a new engine. Wait until it wears in a bit, maybe 12,000 miles.
SIG pistol armorer/FFL Dealer/Full time Peace Officer, Moderator of General Discussion Board on Gunbroker. Visit www.gunbroker.com, the best gun auction site on the Net! Email davidnunn@texoma.net
Boomer
"Success is to be measured not so much by the position that one has reached in life as it is by the obstacles which one has overcome while trying to succeed."NRA Life Member
I use regular oil most of the year, but from Dec. through Feb use full synthetic.
Consumer Reports tested all oils in taxi service and found few differences in engine wear after 60,000 miles. It also found no value to Slick 50. The claims of Slick 50 have been subject to FCC sanctions and law suits.
I was disappointed in the Consumer Reports test because it did not deal with severe service, like towing at very high temperatures. There I think synthetic oil is far superior. (Remember the Mobil 1 advertisement where Mobil 1 and a mineral oil are both heated in frying pans? The mineral oil turns to tar, while the Mobil 1 remains liquid.) For normal serivce, changing mineral oil at short intervals is probably fine for most engines.
It is significant to me that very high performance cars (Corvette, Ferrari, etc.) come from the factory with Mobil 1 in them. It is "slicker" and will lubricate at much higher temperatures without breaking down.
I have used Mobil 1 in everything for decades, and have run many engines on it to over 200,000 miles with no apparent change in function. I change it every 7,000 to 10,000 miles, depending on the season.
Next.
Haven't had an engine problem yet and my highest mileage vehicle (126K) doesn't leak or burn oil and judging by the inside of the valve covers, is spotless on the inside too.
Remember...Terrorist are attacking Civilians; Not the Government. Protect Yourself!
NRA Lifetime Benefactor Member.
Rameleni1
I literally let mine drain overnight. My brother told me to do this (try it, it will convince you to let it drip):
Drain out the oil as you normally do, then move the pan and put a fresh pan under it. Let it continue to drip for 8 to 10 hours. (If out doors, you can loosely thread the drain-plug in to prevent any dust from getting in the motor. Look closely at these last few tablespoons of oil that drip-out during this extended draining period--it'll convince you to do this everytime.
I helped a friend tear down a 351 Ford engine that hadn't had the oil changed for the last 25,000 of the 110,000 miles that were on it. The build-up inside the lifter valley and inside the pan looked just like tar. And on each side of the lifter valley, in the center, where the intake manifold exhaust cross-over is situated, the old oil had cooked up and crystalized just like petroleum coke.
Then I recently tore down the 318 in my 1987 Dodge pickup. I bought the truck new, have run nothing but Castrol GTX 10W40 in it, and have 105,000 miles on it, with oil and filter changes every 3000 miles or sooner. The inside of the engine looked brand new. No sludge, no baked-on crud and virtually no wear in the cylinder bores, lifter bores or the crankshaft. Comparing my engine to the sludged-up 351 Ford shows me the real difference between regular and not-so-regular oil changes.
Lord Lowrider the LoquaciousMember:Secret Select Society of Suave Stylish Smoking Jackets She was only a fisherman's daughter,But when she saw my rod she reeled.
Oil companies recommend changing every 3000 miles.
Car companies recommend changing every 3000 miles for hard conditions or every 7500 for easier, highway conditions.
Oil companies are in the business to sell oil.
Car companies are in the business to sell cars.
No one drives exclusively on the highway or in the city.
Therefore I change my oil every 4-5000 miles and with the car edging 100k have had no trouble whatsoever with the engine, only with mufflers, hoses, shocks, etc.
"...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conf
If I knew then, what I know now.
Eric S. Williams
after we installed a 24 hr. a day centrifuge on it the oil change interval went to 5400 hr. (1 season)
this extracted roughly 10 pounds of carbon, etc per day.
just a little food for thought.
barto
the hard stuff we do right away - the impossible takes a little longer
For those of you that use "GUNK", when would you recommend that I start using it and how often? A mechanic back in Nebraska recommended it after about 80K miles.
Here's another question. Are premium sparkplugs (i.e. BOSCH Platinum 4+) really worth it? Is there a performance difference? My owner's manual doesn't recommend changing out the spark plugs until 75K miles. Other people say I should do it annually. What's the deal on spark plugs?
I have allways used "castrol", my suburban is in the shop for the FIRST time since buying it in 85, it is a 4x4 with a 350, when the engine died last week, it had, 317000 miles on it, the trans went last year, but the engine lasted another 40k. Yes, the chevy went 317k. Have allways changed oil every 3000 miles, nomatter what.
How about them apples.
loader44.
John
I might not always tell you the truth, but I will never lie to you!
I've also heard about synthentic oils that once you go to them you should stay on them.
I like Castrol GTX. Comes in 10-30, 10-40, and if you need it, 10-50. It's not too bad by the case at discount stores. But usually my car is serviced at the dealer and they put in what they please. Some cars specify the weight, by the way, so don't mess around with odd weights unless you know what you're doing. Some cars need plain 30 to run right.
- Life NRA Member
"If cowardly & dishonorable men shoot unarmed men with army guns, the evil must be prevented by the penitentiary...and not by general deprivation of constitutional privilege." - Arkansas Supreme Court, 1878
But Offeror, you just brought up a good point or question?
You mention buying oil at the discounts stores.
I've heard that they put there oil needs up for bids and the oils they in turn sell, may not have all the additives, etc. that you would find in the "same" brand oil at say NAPA or PepBoys.
Anybody heard of this?
Thanks
Never use synthetic on a new vehicle...wait
20,000 miles so engine breaks in properly.
Synthetic is too slippery for proper break-in.
And stay away from synthetic blends, and
pennziol!!
Hunter
mething you won't get with a "real" synthetic oil. I say "real", because the major oil companies don't make true synthetics- they super refine mineral oils to minimal synthetic values. Regular oils should be good for 5,000 miles if used with a mobil-1 filter. Mobil-1 filters filter out down to microns.
Amsoil is the only true synthetic on the market and depending on the type you use- you can go 12,500 miles or 35,000 between oil changes,changing the amsoil filter at 6 to 17,500 miles without moisture problems.(Every six months or 1-year oil change, which ever comes first).
I see vehicles running 300,000 miles just fine. I use nothing but Amsoil oil and filters. Gas mileage goes up, overheating is no problem and the oil won't break down.
The 0-30w is my favorite.
As far as friction values you see on TV with "slick 50", "power up", and all the other"junk", You can pour bleach on the friction tester and it will do better than any of those so-called additives. "Bleach/chlorine" in your engine? Thats what some of the additives have in them.
Use good "true" synthetics and you need no additives.
Long ago, I used "duralube" in my engine and at 5,000 miles, when I drained the oil- I got thick globs of junk out of the pan- FORGET THAT!
However on the subject of synthetics. I always figured they gave your engine a little better protection but never could really decide if they were worth the price, I mean quantifing how much better engine protection your getting is not easy. Anyway, I used to use them.
However, I work for a company that primarily manufactures valve covers and cam covers. We do a lot of testing of these valve cover & gasket assemblies to show the customers (OEMs) that they are good and won't leak for a long time. The oil that we are told to use is a synthetic (Mobil 1 or equal) - because it is the hardest on gaskets, breaks them down the fastest. Basically if our cover assemblies can stand a synthetic oil like Mobil 1, then they are certainly good for normal oils.
So yes, synthetics are probably best for the metal parts in your engine. The gaskets, hmmmm......
The bill to change the oil pan gasket in our Taurus a couple years back was a little under $ 200, and yes I'd used synthetics in that car. Maybe a coincedence, but since I was on the fence anyway, I don't use synthetics anymore.
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/9707/slick.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/9607/slick.htm
http://skepdic.com/slick50.html
Remember...Terrorist are attacking Civilians; Not the Government. Protect Yourself!
NRA Lifetime Benefactor Member.
Remember,"your woman may not find you handsome, But atleast she'll find ya handy". I love that show..............