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JustC, That does make sense. When it was warm I couldn't get a dollar down it between the stock and barrel past the 4" mark. The gunsmith that had it was suppose to have fixed it and evidently didn't.
It just way to late to do anything about it now as deer season is next Saturday. But after the season is over I have found a guy that should be able to take care of it. I could go in there with a dremel myself but I just have no idea what I am doing. Hate to screw it all up.
So the saga continues until then. Will treat the rifle like a double barrel and only shoot twice. (if needed) Hopefully if its only one deer I am shooting at I won't need the follow up shot!
This may have been covered above, but have you checked the muzzle crown? If the crown was not cut properly, or if it has been damaged in any way, it can affect the accuracy of the rifle dramatically. You may be able to evaluate the crown with a magnifying glass, a cotton swab, and other means to determine if there are gouges or rough edges.
I have had the crowns redone on many of my rifles, usually costing about $45 at my gunsmith.
Would I have a tight group though if the crown was mangled?
A refresher of how it shoots:
First two shots tight together and 3rd 4th 5th off to the right together about 2 to 4inches away from the first shots. Seems to be consistent on that pattern.
so are you cleaning the rifle after your 5th 6th shot and shooting it again? or is it just from the heat? what I am saying you could be tring to sight in on a clean barrle and as it fouls, it shoots to the right? as I shoot a flyer then sight in, as it dose make diffrence on point of impact, or dose it not group vary good no matter what, after shooting when its warm?
Doesn't seem to make a difference if the rifle is cleaned or not.
First 2 groups are dead center then they move right after that. At that point the Barrel is very warm and I have to allow it to cool to return shooting.
Doesn't seem to make a difference if the rifle is cleaned or not.
First 2 groups are dead center then they move right after that. At that point the Barrel is very warm and I have to allow it to cool to return shooting.
JustC nailed it earlier barrel still touching when it heats. Use a marking compound lipstick if nothing else and lightly coat barrel, place it in stock and torque it down then remove and look on barrel and stock for contact. If nothing shows do it again and shoot your group and remove and check for contact. Use a dowel and sandpaper to open the area of contact. This is quick and easy with a little patience. Good Luck.
quote:Originally posted by blackmesarifleco
JustC nailed it earlier barrel still touching when it heats. Use a marking compound lipstick if nothing else and lightly coat barrel, place it in stock and torque it down then remove and look on barrel and stock for contact. If nothing shows do it again and shoot your group and remove and check for contact. Use a dowel and sandpaper to open the area of contact. This is quick and easy with a little patience. Good Luck.
quote:Originally posted by blackmesarifleco
JustC nailed it earlier barrel still touching when it heats. Use a marking compound lipstick if nothing else and lightly coat barrel, place it in stock and torque it down then remove and look on barrel and stock for contact. If nothing shows do it again and shoot your group and remove and check for contact. Use a dowel and sandpaper to open the area of contact. This is quick and easy with a little patience. Good Luck.
You can do this! Just take a wooden or steel dowel rod and wrap some 100 to 220 grit sandpaper around the dowel (If it needs to be larger just add more layers of wrapped sandpaper (have the dowel about 6-8 inchs long and a diameter of about 1/2 to 5/8 inch) You can also find the tight spot by using a piece of paper about 1-2 inchs wide and about 4-6 inchs long and gently insert the paper into the SIDES of the BARREL channel and you can actually feel the tight spots with the paper. (most likely since the gunsmith tried to get it floating, it's probably only gently touching in one small area and only needs just minor wood removal which you can do and not harm anything! You can place a piece of masking tape on the side of the stock by the barrel and mark on the tape the area that needs some relief!
You may have to get about 3 sheets of paper clearance in the wood around the barrel due to the gun (recoil lug area) not being glass bedded, because each time you remove the stock, the recoil lug area MAY re-anchor in a slightly different place, which would allow the barrel to touch the side of the barrel channel! Without the glass bedding you might try inserting the paper folded about three times at the outer end of the barrel channel while tightening the front recoil screw so as to keep the action and barrel centered in the barrel channel then remove the paper after tightening the screws! I do this when glass bedding to keep the barrel CENTERED into the channel as the glass (epoxy) is drying!
I promise to give this a try after deer season. If I screw it up before the season I will be kicking myself the rest of the year. But it does sound like something I can do. I wonder if instead of the dowel rod though if I should use a dremel? Just sounds like it would be easier with that.
JustC is correct! Do not try the dremel! Just use the dowel and you will be ok! I use a dowel, even though I have several barrel inletting tools for such! After season, you might just try loosening the TWO action screws tang and recoil, take a dollar bill (a $100 bill works better[:)]) and fold it for APPROXIMATELY three layers or use three sheets of paper about 1 inch wide and 6 inchs long and insert it crossways at the sling stud area and tighten the screws and remove the paper shim! this is keeping the barrel centered in the barrel channel while the stock screws are tightened! (You may not have to remove any wood if you do this, because your gun now has some side slack at the recoil lug area and will possibly make the barrel rub the wood on ONE side in a few places!
The reason a $100 bill is better is you normally won't forget to remove it and put it back in your pocket when completed![:D]
The paper can be slide out if tight by just gently pressing the END of the barrel down against the floor and remove the paper! You will be surprised at how easily the barrel will flex for the first approx .010 or so!
Thanks for the tips. That was very helpful and will give it a try.
Just an update: Killed a 10 point buck last night with it. It was a one shot kill with him running only 75 yards and collapsing. That really convinced me I made a good choice on the 30-06. Will probably retire my .243 from deer hunting after all this.
Comments
how close is the stock to the barrel?
It just way to late to do anything about it now as deer season is next Saturday. But after the season is over I have found a guy that should be able to take care of it. I could go in there with a dremel myself but I just have no idea what I am doing. Hate to screw it all up.
So the saga continues until then. Will treat the rifle like a double barrel and only shoot twice. (if needed) Hopefully if its only one deer I am shooting at I won't need the follow up shot!
Best
Brad
This may have been covered above, but have you checked the muzzle crown? If the crown was not cut properly, or if it has been damaged in any way, it can affect the accuracy of the rifle dramatically. You may be able to evaluate the crown with a magnifying glass, a cotton swab, and other means to determine if there are gouges or rough edges.
I have had the crowns redone on many of my rifles, usually costing about $45 at my gunsmith.
A refresher of how it shoots:
First two shots tight together and 3rd 4th 5th off to the right together about 2 to 4inches away from the first shots. Seems to be consistent on that pattern.
Thanks,
Brad
Doesn't seem to make a difference if the rifle is cleaned or not.
First 2 groups are dead center then they move right after that. At that point the Barrel is very warm and I have to allow it to cool to return shooting.
Brad
RedDog,
Doesn't seem to make a difference if the rifle is cleaned or not.
First 2 groups are dead center then they move right after that. At that point the Barrel is very warm and I have to allow it to cool to return shooting.
Brad
improper bedding.
JustC nailed it earlier barrel still touching when it heats. Use a marking compound lipstick if nothing else and lightly coat barrel, place it in stock and torque it down then remove and look on barrel and stock for contact. If nothing shows do it again and shoot your group and remove and check for contact. Use a dowel and sandpaper to open the area of contact. This is quick and easy with a little patience. Good Luck.
quote:Originally posted by blackmesarifleco
JustC nailed it earlier barrel still touching when it heats. Use a marking compound lipstick if nothing else and lightly coat barrel, place it in stock and torque it down then remove and look on barrel and stock for contact. If nothing shows do it again and shoot your group and remove and check for contact. Use a dowel and sandpaper to open the area of contact. This is quick and easy with a little patience. Good Luck.
You can do this! Just take a wooden or steel dowel rod and wrap some 100 to 220 grit sandpaper around the dowel (If it needs to be larger just add more layers of wrapped sandpaper (have the dowel about 6-8 inchs long and a diameter of about 1/2 to 5/8 inch) You can also find the tight spot by using a piece of paper about 1-2 inchs wide and about 4-6 inchs long and gently insert the paper into the SIDES of the BARREL channel and you can actually feel the tight spots with the paper. (most likely since the gunsmith tried to get it floating, it's probably only gently touching in one small area and only needs just minor wood removal which you can do and not harm anything! You can place a piece of masking tape on the side of the stock by the barrel and mark on the tape the area that needs some relief!
You may have to get about 3 sheets of paper clearance in the wood around the barrel due to the gun (recoil lug area) not being glass bedded, because each time you remove the stock, the recoil lug area MAY re-anchor in a slightly different place, which would allow the barrel to touch the side of the barrel channel! Without the glass bedding you might try inserting the paper folded about three times at the outer end of the barrel channel while tightening the front recoil screw so as to keep the action and barrel centered in the barrel channel then remove the paper after tightening the screws! I do this when glass bedding to keep the barrel CENTERED into the channel as the glass (epoxy) is drying!
I promise to give this a try after deer season. If I screw it up before the season I will be kicking myself the rest of the year. But it does sound like something I can do. I wonder if instead of the dowel rod though if I should use a dremel? Just sounds like it would be easier with that.
Best.
Brad
The reason a $100 bill is better is you normally won't forget to remove it and put it back in your pocket when completed![:D]
The paper can be slide out if tight by just gently pressing the END of the barrel down against the floor and remove the paper! You will be surprised at how easily the barrel will flex for the first approx .010 or so!
Just an update: Killed a 10 point buck last night with it. It was a one shot kill with him running only 75 yards and collapsing. That really convinced me I made a good choice on the 30-06. Will probably retire my .243 from deer hunting after all this.
Brad