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Gun safe question
ElChiliePequin
Member Posts: 10 ✭✭
I'm moving into a new place and I need to buy a gunsafe. I like the browning models but don't know alot about gunsafes. Who else makes a good product that may not have the name recognition of Browning. I don't need anything big. Thinking about the 11/22 + 7 model range. I appreciate the feedback!
Comments
Warranty Information
How do you choose a safe?
Look at the Warranty!
Service after the sale
Gun safes today in many ways have become like automobiles. Each manufacturer offers unique features, making their product different from the rest. Manufactures are quick to entice you to buy, with special promotions and details about what they will do for you before you buy their safe, but very few talk about what they do after the sale. Unfortunately, many safe consumers end up paying more after the sale than what they paid for their safe!
Consumers pay more after the sale because of poor warranties
While many warranties sound complete, they often do not cover drilling a safe open or shipping the safe cross-country to the factory. These two steps alone often cost more than $1,000. Cannon Safe is the only manufacturer to offer a ZERO COST warranty; we pay for drilling the safe open and freight round-trip from your home to the factory.
The Cannon Safe Difference
We believe that purchasing a safe is one of the best investments you'll ever make and that your decision is permanent. We believe the warranty should provide hassle-free NO COST repair or replacement after a flood, attempted break-in, break-in or fire. YES, you read correctly. We are the ONLY COMPANY to offer FREE parts, FREE labor and FREE freight for repair of your safe after a burglary, flood or fire. Contact your local dealer for details!
Not all warranties are created equal!
Before buying a safe, ask the following questions:
1. Will you fix the safe in-home?
2. Who pays for a safe tech to open the safe?
3. Who pays for a safe tech to repair the safe?
4. If repair is not possible in-home, who pays the freight to the factory and back?
When you purchase a Cannon Safe the answer is easy. We do!
The Proof is in the Pudding
Suppose your gun safe was attacked as show by the safe photo above. After an attack, fire or flood, how do you get back into it? Let's examine the steps involved:
1. Safe drilling or opening $150 - $300
2. Safe repair, if possible, in-home $150 -$500+
3. Freight to factory $300+
4. Freight to home from factory $300+
CANNON CUSTOMERS PAY $0
brand. I like the tamper lockers on them and the deflective
hardened glass sheets over the internal drill sites.
... And ... IF you bolt your safe to the floor (concrete) you'll never
have a problem with a gang carrying it off![:D]
frank
Any new gun safe on the market today (price ranges up to around $3000.00 can be easily gotten into with the use of a $25.00 air chissel from your local walmart and an air compressor.
That's not true. There is a VAST difference within the realm of gun safes.
Generally, and correct me if I am wrong, safes are rated by the
amount of time that it takes a PROFESSIONAL SAFE CRACKER to get
a safe dismantled to the point that the contents can be removed.
For a good quality safe it is 45 minutes - and considerably longer
if he doesn't have ALL the right tools/torches!
There are some excellent videos out there - my safe salesman
insisted that I watch the Browning Video before he'd even
consider selling me the safe! It was 20 minutes WELL spent!
There's a little more than just peeling a good quality
safe like an orange with an air hammer. Once the lockers
engage the burglar is in for a real workout - and usually
a losing one!
Watch the tape and then we'll talk.[:D]
quote:forkliftking:
Any new gun safe on the market today (price ranges up to around $3000.00 can be easily gotten into with the use of a $25.00 air chissel from your local walmart and an air compressor.
There's a little more than just peeling a good quality
safe like an orange with an air hammer. Once the lockers
engage the burglar is in for a real workout - and usually
a losing one!
Watch the tape and then we'll talk.[:D]
There are no lockers on the sides of the safe. Only on the door. If the thickness of the metal your safe is made of is less than 1/4" plate steel, a cold chissel and a 3 lb. hammer will easily cut a hole in the side large enough to empty all of the contents of your safe in less than 10 minutes. An air chissel would only take about one minute. Granted, this would be a rather noisy way to get in it. Last Browning safe I saw advertisied was only made of 11 guage steel. That is slightly thinner than 1/8 inch. I didn't see the video you saw but I'm guessing they only spoke of the lock and door assembly, not the materials in which the side walls are made of. Just my 2 cents.