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What type of steel is best for custom bolt?
rcoane
Member Posts: 155 ✭✭✭
I have a 788 in 22-250. I needed a bolt. I found a custom machine shop that will make it. I have a bolt for them to copy. I just dont know what type of steel to have them use. I would also like to correct some of the issues that the 788 bolt had. Like the bolt handle. Im also thinking of going to 3 solid lugs. Im also thinking of using howa or 700 intenal parts. This shop is owned by a freind and the sky is the limit. Price is a shot gun I have that he wants. I want a 788 that will shoot custom loads.
Comments
The question your asking is way to broad and lacking quantifiable data that could be used to determine what the best material is for the job.
With out having quantifiable data to back up the material choice, testing that material choice to failure, you are setting yourself up with a ticking time bomb.
http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.htm
You say "I'm also thinking of using howa or 700 internal parts"
The internal workings of the Rem.788 was the ONLY real reason for it's popularity & desirability. As manufactured, the Rem.788 had the best lock time of any commercial gun. Change that & all you have left is an "aardvark" Bubba special.
You say "correct some of the issues - - - like the bolt handle" & "I have a bolt for them to copy"
Why not have the old bolt handle welded back on? Learn from past mistakes, the Rem.788 is not the gun to hot-rod (never was, never will be).
You say "I want a 788 that will shoot custom loads".
Believe it or not, maximum pressure limits are devised for a reason other than to repress you. If you are going to try hotter & hotter loads, there are much better guns avalible for a starting platform. You need something like the Japanese Ariska or the Enfield 1917 action. They both have strong enough bolt systems so the first thing to go is the side of the barrel/reciever ring.
You ask "what type of steel?"
Pick whatever he has on hand that will machine easily. Your project, by design is going to fail anyway so why hard-time him just because he's a friend!
Jim
I do value your suggestion on not hot rodding it.
Remember the equipment used to make the origanal bolt was not as good as what highquality shops have today. This isn't that hard according to my gun smith. The correct steel + perfect copy + heat treatment + fitting by gunsmith = new bolt. The gunsmith said he doesn't have the equipment to make the bolt, but can do the rest.
If you think my gunsmith is full of it, let me know and I'll abort the mission.
http://www.wisnersinc.com/
You can buy pre heattreated chrome moly 4xxx steel, it would be harder to machine but you would know what you had.
Pacific tool and guage contacted me and said chrome molly 4140. Said 788 bolt is easy to make and should be no problem for most machine shops. They dont make them because of part avalibility and remington discontinued and recalled rifle. I should use what ever internal parts that have a bolt plug that looks good and firing pin is not too short. he said that because the 788 bolt body is thicker than, and shorter than, most bolts just about anything will work with a little modification to spring and firing pin. I should try to get a 788 extracter to help keep bolt face cosistant with spec. They said that they have seen these bolts with lug modifications to prevent the bolt from getting stuck but its a waste of time.
He also gave me pointers on hot loads. Jim is correct, dont do it its too hard to get the lugs to get enough contact.
Thanks for the help. Ill have my next of kin drop a line if I blow my head off.[;)]
If you do make a bolt body, why not go ahead & run 100?
The set-ups are the time consuming part of machining. As long as you are doing, make it pay!
Jim
That is a great idea. Make the body. Leave it long so it can be fit to any 788. Just a blank with lugs and grooves. Id have paid $100.00 for that. [^]