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Securing a door
rustyh
Member Posts: 1,002 ✭✭✭✭
Any suggestions on how to secure a hallway door from forced entry?
I want to lock it from the outside in a way that cannot be breached without serious effort. Hinges are on exposed side. Lock should not be overly evident from exposed side.
Thanks
I want to lock it from the outside in a way that cannot be breached without serious effort. Hinges are on exposed side. Lock should not be overly evident from exposed side.
Thanks
Comments
i have seen a wooden door in a wooden frame reagrdless of locks me and a partner cant pop with a halligan and a sledge in 30sec or less.
without a steel frame and a deadbolt, if they want in, they'll get in.
i have seen a wooden door in a wooden frame reagrdless of locks me and a partner cant pop with a halligan and a sledge in 30sec or less.
You done it enough to know how long it takes you?[:D]
Cops.
That explains it.
on a side note ive got way to much time on my hands. [:D]
it doesnt happen often, but sometime we have to force entry into a residence. little old lady fall down go boom. cant get up to open the door. hits the lifealert button on her necklace. how else do we get in...
my dream front door would consist of multiple layers of 1/2 in hardwood plywood laminated together with 1/4in deep grooves running in a grid pattern every 6 inches. every other layer of the 1/2 in plywood would have these groves and these grooves would have 1/4 in rebar layed into them. this pattern would continue untill the door is 3 1/2 inches thick. there would be pieces of 1/2 rebar approx 1' long. 2 vertically iin the top and bottem and 3 horizontally no each side with somthing like a captains wheel from a ship in the middle of the door. turn the wheel and the rebar gets pushed into holes in the floor and walls. try breaking that down in 30 seconds.
on a side note ive got way to much time on my hands. [:D]
that would be more difficult. not impossible mind you, but tough.
my dream front door would consist of multiple layers of 1/2 in hardwood plywood laminated together with 1/4in deep grooves running in a grid pattern every 6 inches. every other layer of the 1/2 in plywood would have these groves and these grooves would have 1/4 in rebar layed into them. this pattern would continue untill the door is 3 1/2 inches thick. there would be pieces of 1/2 rebar approx 1' long. 2 vertically iin the top and bottem and 3 horizontally no each side with somthing like a captains wheel from a ship in the middle of the door. turn the wheel and the rebar gets pushed into holes in the floor and walls. try breaking that down in 30 seconds.
on a side note ive got way to much time on my hands. [:D]
Unless the jamb is steel, it would still only take less than 30 seconds. Either the door gives by the lockset, or the jamb gives around the strike.
Allen set screws to lock the hinge pins from being removed. Long and strong screws in jamb and door at the hinges.
Margaret Thatcher
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies and statistics."
Mark Twain
It was made using 2x2x1/4 tubing ladder constructed frame. 1/4" steel panel inside and out. Full length hinge made from 1" steel pipe cut about every six inches (one welded to the door the other welded to the frame) with a full length 1" stainless steel rod for a pin.
But the thing that really got me was the five dead bolts that he used. Each with a different key. One on top in the center, Three down the side and one at the bottom.
Any way that you looked at it. There were no way to pry nor bust it open without some serious work.
But with over $350,000 worth of fine firearms will make a guy do stuff like that.
come on how could you get through that? assuming the walls and door were secure. couldnt cut it with a saw the rebar would stop it. the door would weigh probly 300lbs. would a man portable battering ram have any effect on that?
U just move over 6' and go thru the window!![;)]
I have never figgered-out why people spend thousands on reinforced entreys,when their is a window(1/8" of glass)6' away.
figure at least all that would give you the time youd need to get to one of your firearms.
plus windows are really hard for the bad guy to run out of when he sees the shotgun in your hands.
quote:Originally posted by joshmb1982
my dream front door would consist of multiple layers of 1/2 in hardwood plywood laminated together with 1/4in deep grooves running in a grid pattern every 6 inches. every other layer of the 1/2 in plywood would have these groves and these grooves would have 1/4 in rebar layed into them. this pattern would continue untill the door is 3 1/2 inches thick. there would be pieces of 1/2 rebar approx 1' long. 2 vertically iin the top and bottem and 3 horizontally no each side with somthing like a captains wheel from a ship in the middle of the door. turn the wheel and the rebar gets pushed into holes in the floor and walls. try breaking that down in 30 seconds.
on a side note ive got way to much time on my hands. [:D]
Unless the jamb is steel, it would still only take less than 30 seconds. Either the door gives by the lockset, or the jamb gives around the strike.
Allen set screws to lock the hinge pins from being removed. Long and strong screws in jamb and door at the hinges.
the rebar poking out all sides would make it more difficult. but to be effective, youd have to make the rebar extend at least three inches into the door jamb. otherwise, i can just put a ram in, force the jamb out past the rebar, crib it open and repeat the tall way.
the bottom line is that of someone wants in, they are going to get in. the key is to make the taget so difficult to get into the the average meathead with a screwdriver and a boot gets nowhere and a real criminal spends so much time and makes so much noise doing it that they get pinched
You would need to remove one screw from each side of each hinge & replace it with a metal plug of some type that would prevent the hinge from being pulled open. (A large nail with the head ground off would work.)
its all over right there. dont even bother with the extra locks. just leave the door open...
come on how could you get through that? assuming the walls and door were secure. couldnt cut it with a saw the rebar would stop it. the door would weigh probly 300lbs. would a man portable battering ram have any effect on that?
have you ever seen a diamond tip demolition blabe ? depending on the size of the saw, they can cut through 5" and cut anything
my dream home is also a log cabin. so the walls on either side would be an 8x8 log as well as on top and bottem. would take at least a bit more then 30 seconds im sure.
Ever see what a chainsaw will do to a log cabin? Someone will just cut a "new door". Seen it done before.
IOW, if someone wants in bad enough, they are comming in.
the bottom line is that of someone wants in, they are going to get in. the key is to make the taget so difficult to get into the the average meathead with a screwdriver and a boot gets nowhere and a real criminal spends so much time and makes so much noise doing it that they get pinched
This is the general idea.
I think I can reduce the hinge weakness by making something that would keep the door from being pulled out or forced back.
Assume that there is not an unlimited supply of tools at hand. I am trying to reinforce it so that an above average bash grab and run burgler will not breach it. I cannot stop someone with unlimited time and tools. Assume police response time to an alarm be 20 min. (Be nice I am doubling the 10 min average for the heck of it.)
Use a interlocking pin type dead bolt lock, the kind that mounts on the inside with a flush cylinder on the outside.
http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/u181156
Add a 16 ga skin, and you have a pretty secure door...
Don
Hinge side, run in 6" lag screws into the jamb, leave 3/4"-1" under the head exposed, cut off the head, partially close the door on to the cut-off lag screws, marking the door, drill corresponding holes in the door to act as sockets for the cut-off lags.
Or, remove opposing screws & drive in large nail or screw leaving exposed part & cut off head.
quote:Originally posted by joshmb1982
come on how could you get through that? assuming the walls and door were secure. couldnt cut it with a saw the rebar would stop it. the door would weigh probly 300lbs. would a man portable battering ram have any effect on that?
U just move over 6' and go thru the window!![;)]
I have never figgered-out why people spend thousands on reinforced entreys,when their is a window(1/8" of glass)6' away.
BINGO! SO TRUE!
windows are made of 1" lexonSeen burglars melt a hole through these using a handheld propane blow torch, then run a hook inside and yank the entire panel and framework out with a chain and vehicle.
Not pretty, but very effective.
They have been tastefully covered with a 1/16" white oak veneer with a dark walnut stain outside, and painted a semi-gloss eggshell white inside.
Brad Steele
All my external doors consist of 8 panels of reactive armor on the outside with a 1/4" T-1 (Type A) plate core.
They have been tastefully covered with a 1/16" white oak veneer with a dark walnut stain outside, and painted a semi-gloss eggshell white inside.
Do you hire out?
Mike
quote:Originally posted by Don McManus
All my external doors consist of 8 panels of reactive armor on the outside with a 1/4" T-1 (Type A) plate core.
They have been tastefully covered with a 1/16" white oak veneer with a dark walnut stain outside, and painted a semi-gloss eggshell white inside.
Do you hire out?
Not for doors.
Brad Steele